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dana 80 clutch re-stack attempt

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A friend of mine has an 02 qc 4x4 6spd. It has a limited slip that opens most of the time. I was thinking about trying to restack the clutches and frictions to make it grab better. We havent pulled the cover yet to see if its the one we will be able to do that to, but i was wondering how hard it is, whats the steps to do it and if any special tools would need to be involved? thanks,

Lance
 
Here is a link to a thread that lists most of the work. You might need to pry the carrier out of the housing, no biggie just be careful you don't drop it on your fingers.
 
Send a PM to Bobcat698. He did the same thing to the limited slip diff in the Dana 80 he swapped into his truck before it broke and he put in a Detroit Locker.



Scott
 
SDarr said:
Send a PM to Bobcat698. He did the same thing to the limited slip diff in the Dana 80 he swapped into his truck before it broke and he put in a Detroit Locker.



Scott



You can also PM AlphaCowboy as he did the retack too with good results...



Do yourself a favor and buy new clutches for the LSD and then restack them... no sense in using worn out clutches...



steved
 
98slushbox said:
What does a new set of clutches cost and where is the best place to purchase them?

Lance





Most likely Randy's R&P... the ones for my D70 were around $70... but I know the D80s are more...



steved
 
do you have the number to Randy's? The owner of the truck said if they weren't too expensive that he would just go ahead and buy new ones rather than mess with the stock ones with over 100k on them.

Lance
 
98slushbox said:
do you guys think it would be worth the time to just restack the factory's for now?





I wouldn't waste my time taking it that far apart to only do a "temporary" fix that would not gain much if anything if the clutches are already worn and slipping.



But that's just me...



steved
 
did mine last night!

i re-stacked my dana 80 LSD last night. first time i have ever done something like that, but went really well. all you have to do is remove the bearing caps (4 bolts) pull the ring gear and housing out... man is it heavy! remove the case bolts (did with impact wrench) lift off the top of the case. lay everything out on a clean large surface so that you get everything back in the right way... the concave/convex washers are important to orient the right direction, i think they are spring steel and they are what push on the clutch packs when the case bolts are re-tightened to provide the limited slip effect.



it is a little difficult re-torquing the case bolts, my dad helped me by just placing a long "cheater pipe" in one of the case holes to hold the whole thing while i torqued the bolts... worked great.



the service manual says that the case must go back on the same place it came off, so mark lines on it with a grease pencil or something.



one good hint... restack the plates on the axle gears and hold them with your fingers while turning upside down to get it back in the case... if you don't have too big of fingers they will fit in the slots of the case... sure is eaiser than trying to re-align the splines and dropping the gear down in it ;)



the whole job only took about 2 hours, if i had to do it again with a helper, you can probably do it in less than that.
 
98slushbox said:
do you guys think it would be worth the time to just restack the factory's for now?



I would, they might not be worn, it's usually just too much L/S additive. When you reassemble, leave the additive out until it's needed.



Do measure them when it's apart. Mine have been in for a long time and there wasn't any wear on the steel plates. It hooks so good I didn't measure the clutch plates.
 
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