2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dana 80 exploded view

[GAmes]

Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the D 80 axle? FSM has one of a half ton axle but not the 286 RBI. Also, any insight in removing the brake drums, or is it pretty straight forward?

 

[NIsaacs]

I am sure I have one around here somewhere but I am no good at scanning and posting.



I am not sure on the '97 if the drums are inboard or outboard type. On my '01 they are outboard and just slide off, you may need to back the brake adjustment off some.



If they are inboard, you need to pull the axle and remove the 2 9/16 spindle nut. The nut is locked to the spindle with a small gizmo that sets in the spindle spline/groove and drives into the nylon part of the nut.



Nick

 

[WilsonF]

A little trick if your drums are stuck. On jack stands wheels off, thread a few lug nuts back on, start truck and put it in gear, let the drums turn then slam on the brakes. Worked like magic for me last time I had to remove them.

Floyd

 

[GAmes]

It turns out the 2 9/16 socket I used on my '92 won't fit the '97. The 2 1/2 rounded corner sockets available from O'Reilley's and Matco don't work. NAPA doesn't carry the correct socket either. I had to special order the socket using the Dodge tool # cross referenced thru Matco. I have my pickup halfway into the garage with the door open, so have to reassemble it enough to roll the truck out #@$%! until the tool gets here.



The drum is outboard I found out. I knew about the trick to break the rust off the brake drum to slide it off, but thanks for the reminder.



Is there a specific TQ on the retaining nut? I have a FSM, but it only states to reinstall the nut and the TQ table doesn't list it.

 

[NIsaacs]

Well dang, nuthin like givin bum info!! That socket fits all the older big three.



Let me know what the size is so I can get one too. I have worked on a lot of different axle nuts without a socket. Just use a screw driver the right width and wedge it between the hub housing and the axle nut, then turn the hub by hand, it should come right off. You can install the same way.



Axle nut torque? Thats a tough one. I have developed a feel for it. I tighten the nut good then whack the hub/drum with a big dead blow hammer several times, then back the nut off loose, then tighten by hand until there is no slack in the bearings, then tighten a little more all by hand, turning the hub at the same time. You should feel some drag on the hub as you turn but not much.



Nick

 

[GAmes]

Thanks for the info Nick. I'm interpreting that the hub nut is adjusted similar to the nut on the front spindle, except it requires some tq. I was thinking I would count the turns taking it off and tighten it back to where the little lock wedge lines up.



Gary

 

[SHobbs]

According to my book the nut should be tightened to 120-140 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel then back it off 1/8 of a turn. I would think all Dana 80's would be the same, been wrong before though. Nothing like the nut on my front bearing assembly which takes 240 ft. lbs.

 

[NIsaacs]

My repair manuals say that too, however that system always bothered me. How do you accurately back off a six sided nut an 1/8 turn? What if you back it off 1/9, is it then too loose or 1/7, is it now too tight?



I see in your sig. your truck is 2wd, but the 240 ft. lbs is for a 4x4?? Like Gary said, the 2wd should be simular in adjustment to the rear, only a little tighter because of the stress/weight on the dually.



Nick

 

[GAmes]

According to my book the nut should be tightened to 120-140 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel then back it off 1/8 of a turn.

Good info. Is that in your FSM or another manual?

 

[SHobbs]

Games,



That came from the FSM. As far as backing it off 1/8 of a turn I used a 2 ft. breakover with a cheater pipe. I put some marks on the socket and hub so I would know where I started and where to stop.



Nick,



The book states Lite Duty ( LD ) 1500: 185 ft. lbs, Heavy Duty ( HD ) 2500/3500: 280 ft. lbs. My wrench only goes to 240 ft. lbs. I gave the darn thing a little extra push with a 2ft. break over after I torqued it. The 4wd has what looks like 4 bolts holding the hub bearing to the knuckle, the 2wd has the one big nut ( 41 MM ) to hold it on the spindle.

 

[GAmes]

Yup, I went back and READ the book instead of scanning it and sure enough the same info is in my manual.



The confusion on the 2WD front spindle is '97s have conventional bearings that you only tighten the nut finger tight and the newer 2nd gens ('99 or 2000?) have different bearing packs.

 

[SHobbs]

GAmes,



I just replaced my front hub bearing assemblies which was not really not that big of a job. If I didn't have a 3500 it would have been a little less time consuming, took me about an hour per side. I can't really complain too much though I got over 260k out of the factory originals.

 

[NIsaacs]

Dang new stuff, anyway!



I am having a hard time in my minds eye what the 2wd bearing looks like. Is it simular to the new non grease-able, type like the newer trailers sometimes use. Two sealed tapered bearings back to back for the inner and the same thing for the outer and the spindle nut just holds this sealed assembly on and no adjustment?



Thanks for the lessons from this old dog.



Nick

 

[cojhl2]

It turns out the 2 9/16 socket I used on my '92 won't fit the '97. The 2 1/2 rounded corner sockets available from O'Reilley's and Matco don't work. NAPA doesn't carry the correct socket either. I had to special order the socket using the Dodge tool # cross referenced thru Matco. I have my pickup halfway into the garage with the door open, so have to reassemble it enough to roll the truck out #@$%! until the tool gets here.



The drum is outboard I found out. I knew about the trick to break the rust off the brake drum to slide it off, but thanks for the reminder.



Is there a specific TQ on the retaining nut? I have a FSM, but it only states to reinstall the nut and the TQ table doesn't list it.

For my info, why are you concerned with the big nut when the drums are outboard?

 

[SHobbs]

This is the 2wd hub assembly

More Information for TIMKEN HA590000

There are arrows in the corners of the picture to rotate the view.



The 4wd looks like this

More Information for TIMKEN HA590203





cojhl2,



The hub contains the inner and outer bearings which slides onto the axle, without the retaining nut nothing holds the hub onto the axle.

 

[cojhl2]

cojhl2,



The hub contains the inner and outer bearings which slides onto the axle, without the retaining nut nothing holds the hub onto the axle.

But with outboard Drums why do I have to pull the hub? I must not understand. I thought that was the advantage of outboard.



BTW mine I have to pull the hub so I haven't ever seen another option.



Thank you for keeping me straight SHobbs

 

[SHobbs]

If you are replacing the hub seal or the bearings in the hub the drum does need to come off. My understanding of the benefits of the outboard drums is that you do not have to pull the hubs to look at the brakes and they are easier and cheaper to maintain.



Well look what I found.



http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXIP-0076.PDF

 

[GAmes]

For my info, why are you concerned with the big nut when the drums are outboard?

The inner hub seal is leaking. At the current rate the brake shoes will last a million miles, so replacing the shoes isn't on the list.

 

[GAmes]

Well look what I found.



http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXIP-0076.PDF

Excellent!! Thanks!

 

[GAmes]

I feel so stupid, but have to post this in case someone else is equally able to jump to the wrong conclusion.



After pulling the axleshaft out I tried to insert the 2 9/16 socket into the hub and it wouldn't go in. Sometime later I pulled the metal seal/spacer/washer (?) that was stuck to the outer edge of the hub. You guessed it, I didn't retry my socket. The inside diameter of the spacer is smaller than the hole in the hub. With it removed the socket goes in no problem. So no need to buy another special tool Oo.