Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Dana 80 pinion seal

[Don Bellamy]

Could anyone explain the process of replacing the rear axle pinion seal in the Dana 80 and maybe the part #

Don

 

[GOT-Torque]

Remove driveshaft, remove pinion nut, remove yoke, remove seal...



Install everyting in reverse order.



I think the D80 uses shims instead of a crushable sleeve for pinion bearing preload. You torque the nut to a certain value, then alittle at a time until you need so many inch pounds of force to rotate the pinion. I don't have the specs here with me at work. Maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[Don Bellamy]

is a puller needed? what is the torque on the pinion nut or does it matter?

 

[GOT-Torque]

For a Dana 80 rear axle, here's some info out of my manual:



PINION SEAL

REMOVAL

(1) Raise and support the vehicle.

(2) Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion

yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.

(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion

yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright position

to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.

(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.

(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag.

The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque

measurement.

(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.

(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to

rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs. ) dial-type

torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation

reference.

(8) Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the

pinion shaft nut and washer.

(9) Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).

(10) Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable

pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.



INSTALLATION

(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing

bore.

(2) Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for

burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.

(3) Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines

and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if necessary.

NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated

with a special sealant. An additional application of

sealant is not required.

(4) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the

lip of pinion seal.

(5) Install new pinion shaft seal with an appropriate

Installer.

NOTE: The seal is correctly installed when the seal

flange contacts the face of the differential housing

flange.

(6) Position pinion yoke on the end of the shaft

with the reference marks aligned.

(7) Seat yoke on pinion shaft with Installer D-191

and Yoke Holder 6719 (Fig. 23).

(8) Remove the tools and install the pinion yoke

washer and nut.

(9) Hold pinion yoke with Yoke Holder 6719 and

tighten shaft nut to 597 N·m (440 ft. lbs. ) (Fig. 24).

Rotate pinion shaft several revolutions to ensure the

bearing rollers are seated.

(10) Rotate the pinion shaft using an inch pound

torque wrench. Rotating resistance torque should be

equal to the reading recorded, plus a small amount

for the drag the new seal will have (Fig. 25).

NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be constant

during a complete revolution of the pinion. If

the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding

condition.

(11) Install the propeller shaft with the installation

reference marks aligned.

(12) Tighten the universal joint yoke clamp screws

to 19 N·m (14 ft. lbs. ).

(13) Install the brake drums.

(14) Add gear lubricant to the differential housing,

if necessary. Refer to the Lubricant Specifications for

gear lubricant requirements.

(15) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower

the vehicle.



Pinion Bearing Preload - Original Bearings 1-2 N·m (10-20 in. lbs. )

Pinion Bearing Preload - New Bearings 2. 8-5. 1 N·m (25-45 in. lbs. )



Pinion Nut 440-500 ft-lbs



Hope this helps...

 

[AfterBurner]

So has anybody done this fix? how much work is it? Would it be worth it to let a shop do it?

Forrest

 

[obert]

Remove driveshaft, remove pinion nut, remove yoke, remove seal...



Install everyting in reverse order.....

Thats it. Your quote from the manual is correct, but only for the anal DIY'er NOT working flat rate.



I marked nut/pinion to each other and counted exposed threads on the shaft. Performaed as above (yoke slipped off rather easy).



To get the nut back to orig. position I set the brake, put trans in gear and chocked wheels, and it took more arse than my skinny one could muster. Vibes from a bad drive shaft carrier brg took out the seal, all fixxed many, many miles ago, no problem since.



Call me a hillbilly, but its a good method for the heavier axles that DONT have the crush sleeve. I dont know (doubt) that it works with the crush sleeve, the only one I did like that the kid owning it destroyed the diff horsein' around a few months after I put in his pinion seal... . which needed replaced 'cause of his horsein' around

 

[obert]

So has anybody done this fix? how much work is it? Would it be worth it to let a shop do it?

Forrest

Price the parts and consider the time you will have in the project. What is your time and sweat worth?? Compare that to an estimate from your local trusted independent shop. The difference should be mostly labor, I would think on this job is less than $100. If your on a budget and wrenches fit your hand well, do it yourself.

"worth it" is a personal question. You might find that paying some one $xxx an hour to bust thier knucles is "worth it". Of course, that moment often comes after you do tthe job yourself and wish you weren't the one that was laying under the truck... .

 

[GOT-Torque]

Don't get me wrong, its a pain in the butt. I had to make a tool to hold the yoke while the nut is being loosened/tightened. Also, it takes a big socket and breaker bar to tighten that thing!

 

[johncameron]

I had it done as the pinion nut is HUGE

 

[MRoberts]

I had mine done at DDP. Worth it IMO. If you do it yourself, make sure the leaking seal hasn't caused a "groove" in the yoke.



If I didn't need a new yoke, it would have cost $100-125. Since the yoke was over $200... ... ... wahh!