JyRO, well lets see, youhave no room for overhead clearance. Well whats in the bed? Is there a topper or tool box in the back or is the front leading edge of the bed open? If it is open then you are not far away from being 10-8. Got to the local CB shop( not Wally World) and get you a small 4 bolt mirror mount, get a top loaded antenna such as the Wilson Silver Load I mentioned to Jason. Then see if the shop has an antenna quick disconnect. What this does is allow you to pull up to the garage give the antenna a quick 1/4 turn and the antenna is off, also good for security. As far as the radio is concerned if you stay with either a Cobra 25 or 29 or in the Uniden line a 68 or 78 you will be happy with the performance plus both radios come with a two year factory warranty. Hope this helps!! Pete
-
TDR Magazine subscribers receive more than the magazine! You also gain additional forum privileges!
Details here: TDR Privileges
Subscribe to TDR Magazine here: https://www.tdr-online.com/
Darn CB interferance!
- Thread starter Archive
- Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.
Thanks, TDR Staff
- Status
There's not a thing in the bed, yet. Only thing that may go in there later is a 5th wheel hitch. No topper, not enough room in the garage. I'm saying that because I think the back end of the truck is higher than the front and I think a topper would drag on the garage door and/or door opener.
So you're saying drill holes in the bed to mount the antenna? 2 problems. I have a bed mat and don't want to cut it. And drilling holes in the bed makes my skin crawl. I'd do it for the 5th wheel, but I don't think I could do it for an antenna. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking maybe mounting it to some chassis/frame component below the bed, and letting it run up between the bed and cab. I'd have to have a guide to steady it to keep it from slapping the cab and bed (like an exhaust clamp does for the exhaust). I don't know how that would do for reception though.
#ad
So you're saying drill holes in the bed to mount the antenna? 2 problems. I have a bed mat and don't want to cut it. And drilling holes in the bed makes my skin crawl. I'd do it for the 5th wheel, but I don't think I could do it for an antenna. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking maybe mounting it to some chassis/frame component below the bed, and letting it run up between the bed and cab. I'd have to have a guide to steady it to keep it from slapping the cab and bed (like an exhaust clamp does for the exhaust). I don't know how that would do for reception though.
#adThere's not a thing in the bed, yet. Only thing that may go in there later is a 5th wheel hitch. No topper, not enough room in the garage. I'm saying that because I think the back end of the truck is higher than the front and I think a topper would drag on the garage door and/or door opener.
So you're saying drill holes in the bed to mount the antenna? 2 problems. I have a bed mat and don't want to cut it. And drilling holes in the bed makes my skin crawl. I'd do it for the 5th wheel, but I don't think I could do it for an antenna. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking maybe mounting it to some chassis/frame component below the bed, and letting it run up between the bed and cab. I'd have to have a guide to steady it to keep it from slapping the cab and bed (like an exhaust clamp does for the exhaust). I don't know how that would do for reception though.#ad
So you're saying drill holes in the bed to mount the antenna? 2 problems. I have a bed mat and don't want to cut it. And drilling holes in the bed makes my skin crawl. I'd do it for the 5th wheel, but I don't think I could do it for an antenna. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking maybe mounting it to some chassis/frame component below the bed, and letting it run up between the bed and cab. I'd have to have a guide to steady it to keep it from slapping the cab and bed (like an exhaust clamp does for the exhaust). I don't know how that would do for reception though.
#adIf you're only getting powerline noise when you go under them then all you can do is:
1. Increase the signal to noise ratio, better antenna (not really going to help much) although that is where the noise is entering the radio.
2. Get a better radio with a better noise filter (noise blanker).
Radios today have more advanced circuits for eliminating unwanted noise without degrading the receive. Older radios didn't have the selective filtering.
Realistically, powerline noise & spark plug noise are very hard to get rid of. They are emitted just like radio waves and the receiver picks 'em up. Luckily we dont have spark plugs. You can do some shielding of plug wires, can't do much about powerlines.
If you are getting alternator noise, then that is entering through the power feed and you can use an inline filter, but make sure you get one rated for the amps you are pulling.
A good installation requires that you ground all body parts to the frame & engine, preferrably by using as wide of a strap as possible, but ground braided strap works ok, but a solid one works better since it has alot of surface area(skin affect). This will cut down on static caused by metal parts rubbing together, etc.
You can start getting fancy with capacitors connected to ground as noise bypassers, & a bunch of time consuming stuff, but it won't make much difference. I work with RF for a living and can tell you to just make a good clean installation, (good grounds, good antenna, good feedline, and run both the + & - direct to the batts with the biggest, shortest leads possible, & run them by the frame if possible - less noise pickup).
OR you can do what N7GXD says & get rid of the CB which is AM (picks up every atmospheric noise around), & get your ham license & use 2 meters & 440. They are FM and it does not pick up near as much noise. That's the way I'd go.
Good luck dude.
------------------
2k, 17k miles, QC, 4x, 6sp, 3. 54,285/75r16 bfg/at, stock air cleaner (reliable), silencer ring "in" (runs better), popup cmpr, 9000 lbs. 14. 5-16 mpg. VA, DD1's, PS Boost module, DD Elbow... also, Nitrous Oxide piped direct into the block (stealth - to keep the warranty), twin turbos, 10 gallon per minute fuel pump, ECM right out of Don Garlit's Top Fueler (he gave it to me) (for letting him ride in my truck), Super Modified DD1 Injectors ("Hand Honed" with a 1/4" reamer & my 12v Makita).
#ad
More BOMBING to come!!
[This message has been edited by Shortshift (edited 10-06-2000). ]
1. Increase the signal to noise ratio, better antenna (not really going to help much) although that is where the noise is entering the radio.
2. Get a better radio with a better noise filter (noise blanker).
Radios today have more advanced circuits for eliminating unwanted noise without degrading the receive. Older radios didn't have the selective filtering.
Realistically, powerline noise & spark plug noise are very hard to get rid of. They are emitted just like radio waves and the receiver picks 'em up. Luckily we dont have spark plugs. You can do some shielding of plug wires, can't do much about powerlines.
If you are getting alternator noise, then that is entering through the power feed and you can use an inline filter, but make sure you get one rated for the amps you are pulling.
A good installation requires that you ground all body parts to the frame & engine, preferrably by using as wide of a strap as possible, but ground braided strap works ok, but a solid one works better since it has alot of surface area(skin affect). This will cut down on static caused by metal parts rubbing together, etc.
You can start getting fancy with capacitors connected to ground as noise bypassers, & a bunch of time consuming stuff, but it won't make much difference. I work with RF for a living and can tell you to just make a good clean installation, (good grounds, good antenna, good feedline, and run both the + & - direct to the batts with the biggest, shortest leads possible, & run them by the frame if possible - less noise pickup).
OR you can do what N7GXD says & get rid of the CB which is AM (picks up every atmospheric noise around), & get your ham license & use 2 meters & 440. They are FM and it does not pick up near as much noise. That's the way I'd go.
Good luck dude.
------------------
2k, 17k miles, QC, 4x, 6sp, 3. 54,285/75r16 bfg/at, stock air cleaner (reliable), silencer ring "in" (runs better), popup cmpr, 9000 lbs. 14. 5-16 mpg. VA, DD1's, PS Boost module, DD Elbow... also, Nitrous Oxide piped direct into the block (stealth - to keep the warranty), twin turbos, 10 gallon per minute fuel pump, ECM right out of Don Garlit's Top Fueler (he gave it to me) (for letting him ride in my truck), Super Modified DD1 Injectors ("Hand Honed" with a 1/4" reamer & my 12v Makita).
#adMore BOMBING to come!!
[This message has been edited by Shortshift (edited 10-06-2000). ]
JyRO, I knew you were gonna say no holes but I tried the mount option anyway #ad
. Now for your idea about coming up between the cab and bed is fine, make sure you get agood bond(RFtype)at the frame crossmember, a shallow channel style or box type metal would be pretty rigid and might support the antenna plus that would keep the antenna in the center of the truck. The 5'er will block alot of the signal going out back but we all have that problem when towing. Pete
#ad. Now for your idea about coming up between the cab and bed is fine, make sure you get agood bond(RFtype)at the frame crossmember, a shallow channel style or box type metal would be pretty rigid and might support the antenna plus that would keep the antenna in the center of the truck. The 5'er will block alot of the signal going out back but we all have that problem when towing. Pete
Some great stuff here. I've been so frustrated with my CB that I took it off the truck. Any words of advice would be appreciated:
I have a nasty noise that sounds like the truck has sparkplugs. Turn off the truck and the CB is fine, turn on the engine and it is buzzing with the RPM changes.
I've tried two CB's, two antennas and simply can not figure it out.
Help!?
------------------
99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )
I have a nasty noise that sounds like the truck has sparkplugs. Turn off the truck and the CB is fine, turn on the engine and it is buzzing with the RPM changes.
I've tried two CB's, two antennas and simply can not figure it out.
Help!?
------------------
99' SB 4x4 : DDI's, HOT PE, SPA dual gauge, ESPAR, Line-X OTR, Ladder bars, AMSOIL, etc (GPS,Cell,CB,... . )
David, thats unusual for a Diesel. Tell me does it do it with just the key in the on position or must you start it to get the interference? It does sound like an altenator noise though.
Just curious what kind of radio? Does it have an ANL(Automatic Noise Limiter) or an NB(noise Blanker)? If it has these two functions make sure that they are on and then check the difference.
Power wire, where is it at? either get a cigarette adapter and plug it into the power point or better yet take the red wire strait to the positive post of the battery and the ground wire needs to be as short as possible and hooked to a good ground close to the radio.
Now under the hood check and make sure the battery wires are tight then check the ground straps on the firewall(there are several) and the grounds on the radiator brace. Hope this helps, let me know. Pete
Just curious what kind of radio? Does it have an ANL(Automatic Noise Limiter) or an NB(noise Blanker)? If it has these two functions make sure that they are on and then check the difference.
Power wire, where is it at? either get a cigarette adapter and plug it into the power point or better yet take the red wire strait to the positive post of the battery and the ground wire needs to be as short as possible and hooked to a good ground close to the radio.
Now under the hood check and make sure the battery wires are tight then check the ground straps on the firewall(there are several) and the grounds on the radiator brace. Hope this helps, let me know. Pete
Pete has given all of you some very good information for your radios. I strongly recommend all of you pay very close attention to what he had to say about antenna’s. The best radio on the market will sound like crap with a cheap or poorly placed antenna. As Pete states the Wilson 1000 or K-40 mag mounts are top choices for general use. If you insist on mounting your antenna in the bed or on the fender you need at least ½ the length of the antenna above the cab of the truck and 2/3 would be even better. Last but not least, even though it may be easier to wire the radio to the fuse box or a hot wire under the dash, don’t do it. Run the hot wire straight to the battery with a inline fuse.
Jerry
------------------
1999, 2500 QC 4X4, Driftwood,Auto, Stock, Cab High Shell, Tow Package, Camper Package.
Jerry
------------------
1999, 2500 QC 4X4, Driftwood,Auto, Stock, Cab High Shell, Tow Package, Camper Package.
Gohen and Pete are right about tapping the battery for power.
What is not always obvious though, is that the fuse for your power MUST be as close to the battery or other power source as possible, not at the rig. Radio Shack has a nifty blade fuse holder that does the job nicely.
Regards,
Hal
What is not always obvious though, is that the fuse for your power MUST be as close to the battery or other power source as possible, not at the rig. Radio Shack has a nifty blade fuse holder that does the job nicely.
Regards,
Hal
I have also experienced (to some degree) the powerline interference that Lil'Dog has. I have a tweaked Midland #79-290 with a 3' Firestik mounted on the driver side fender. I'm also using the 9' Firestik Firewire RG58 coax (with their patented Firering connector). The ground for the CB is made at the OE radiator support grounding point location (as per TSB 08-16-98... Installation of Radio Transmitting Equipment). In addition, I have also added an 8 gauge ground wire from the antenna mount to the same grounding point (at the radiator support location). The coax is routed through the Firewall through one of the large grommets, as far away from other wires as possible... after which, it is never in the vicinity of other wires in the cab area. The 12v+ connection was made at my add-on, Painless Wiring Cirkit Boss (12v+ constant on) auxiliary fuse block. This is as close to a battery connection as you can get. Although I didn't make the connection "directly" to the battery, I haven't experienced ANY RFI (other than the EMI previously stated). Would there be any benefit (i. e. , powerline EMI reduction) by tying in directly to the battery? I really like the connection point I have now for a variety of reasons however, if further noise reduction is possible I would change it. Pete, Shortshift, anyone????
------------------
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Aeroquip braided s/s fuel lines, Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications
------------------
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover & trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, VDO Vision gauges, Dynamat, '00 Sport grille & valve cover, '00 Sport headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass, Optima Yellow Tops, Bosch 275s, VA CPC, (censored), Aeroquip braided s/s fuel lines, Banks 14 cm2 turbine housing/Big Head wastegate actuator, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , BD V10/Cummins hybrid TC & valve body, BD trans. front pump & PressureLoc, Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications
John, If we are dealing with external EMI then where you have it wired is okay. If on the other hand it is internal of the truck then moving the wire might help. The external RFI and EMI we pick and the amount of that we hear will be dictated by the pi network of filters on the board in the radio. Just check the radio like I mentioned to others for the ANL/NB switch and make sure it is on, also do the key on test then engine on test and see how much difference there is. Pete
Hey Pete, thanks for your response! #ad
I do not have the ANL/NB switch you spoke of although, I seem have more switches and buttons than the space shuttle... none of them appear to be related to noise suppression though. Anyway, in a "noise" free area it makes NO difference as to whether I have my Ram running or not... NO RFI/EMI whatsoever. This would lead one to deduce that my installation is not lacking.
I still have some aluminum braided shielding I used to shield "car" sterio equipment I installed in a past 4x of mine (shieliding all wires/DIN cables from the control unit to the amps), grounding one end to reduce RFI. This seemed to be pretty effective, eliminating all but trace amounts. Do you think there would be any benifit to adding this shielding to either the 12v+ lead and/or the coax cable? I know I'm really reaching here... just want to optimize this installation to its full potential. Also, would a CB that has been "turbo tuned" (i. e. , higher power output) have more of a tendency to attract RFI/EMI?
Thanks in advance for your expert advice.#ad
[This message has been edited by John (edited 10-08-2000). ]
#adI do not have the ANL/NB switch you spoke of although, I seem have more switches and buttons than the space shuttle... none of them appear to be related to noise suppression though. Anyway, in a "noise" free area it makes NO difference as to whether I have my Ram running or not... NO RFI/EMI whatsoever. This would lead one to deduce that my installation is not lacking.
I still have some aluminum braided shielding I used to shield "car" sterio equipment I installed in a past 4x of mine (shieliding all wires/DIN cables from the control unit to the amps), grounding one end to reduce RFI. This seemed to be pretty effective, eliminating all but trace amounts. Do you think there would be any benifit to adding this shielding to either the 12v+ lead and/or the coax cable? I know I'm really reaching here... just want to optimize this installation to its full potential. Also, would a CB that has been "turbo tuned" (i. e. , higher power output) have more of a tendency to attract RFI/EMI?
Thanks in advance for your expert advice.
#ad[This message has been edited by John (edited 10-08-2000). ]
Sorry John but its no to both.
#1 The interference is coming in the antenna through the reciever.
#2 The tuning on the radio is basically just opening up the audio circuit and turning up the input to the final transistor. Export radios are more prone to external EMI/RFI due to the fact that their recievers are spread wider to accept more channels. So the the fact that your radio doesn't have the ANL/NB feature means that what filtering your radio has is preset in the radio. Hope this info helps. Pete
#1 The interference is coming in the antenna through the reciever.
#2 The tuning on the radio is basically just opening up the audio circuit and turning up the input to the final transistor. Export radios are more prone to external EMI/RFI due to the fact that their recievers are spread wider to accept more channels. So the the fact that your radio doesn't have the ANL/NB feature means that what filtering your radio has is preset in the radio. Hope this info helps. Pete
I've never had a CB, but I have been considering one because -well, it's just one more link. And in this new millenium with senseless crimes and all the bullsh... ... ... . oh well I better not start.
This site is incredible. Enjoyed the reading and I would bet we have an expert in just about any imaginable field. FWIW, this thread answered a curiousity of mine (regarding aged CBs). Thank you, guys.#ad
Joe
------------------
White 1999, 3500 QuadCab, 6x6, Stock (so far) ISB, Automatic, Diamond Plate Running Boards and Flaps, Pac Brake, Missing Muffler, Grover Air Horns, Wants to be BOMBed.
"SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL"
This site is incredible. Enjoyed the reading and I would bet we have an expert in just about any imaginable field. FWIW, this thread answered a curiousity of mine (regarding aged CBs). Thank you, guys.
#adJoe
------------------
White 1999, 3500 QuadCab, 6x6, Stock (so far) ISB, Automatic, Diamond Plate Running Boards and Flaps, Pac Brake, Missing Muffler, Grover Air Horns, Wants to be BOMBed.
"SHAKE, RATTLE, AND ROLL"
I purchased my CB through www.exportradios.com Although one of the options available was to add the "export radio" features (6 bands, export channels) for an additional $29. 99, I elected to pass on this option (no one I know has these channels on their CB). I was told the "turbo tuned" model I purchased would net 25-30 watts. I guess what I'm asking Pete is; would my "turbo tuned" (non-export... standard 40 channel with SSB etc. ) model tend to attract more RFI/EMI than the base model? Just curious.
[This message has been edited by John (edited 10-08-2000). ]
[This message has been edited by John (edited 10-08-2000). ]
No John, the tuning of your radio isn't the cause of the EMI/RFI coming in. Its just a trait of that line of radio you have. The electro magnetic lines of flux coming off those high power lines are quite large and we all here the static as we drive under them. No radio takes it all out some just filter a little better than others. Pete
- Status
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
Turbo Diesel Register
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
