2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dash Light Problem...

[MBean]

Ok,

I need some more help on the brake & ABS light problem. I've replaced the rear wheel speed sensor (although I forgot to disconnect the battery the first time), checked all of the fuzes, even used a Tech III to read and try to clear the codes. No codes to read or clear. Now what do I do to get those darn lights to go off on the dash???



I'm startin' to get upset with this problem. Can you folks out there in TDR-land help or am I gonna have to admit defeat and go to the dealership?. ?. ? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!!!



Thanks!

Mark

 

[MBean]

Bring back to top...

Come one guys! I know someone out there in TDR-land has to know how to fix this dash light problem!!! You guys know everything about these trucks!!!



Give a new guy a brake (pun intended).

Mark

 

[OTRPU]

Me 2. . . mine are blinding me all the night driving I do. And what's the best scanner to buy for a 99? Or would a laptop program be a better investment? Want something that can get into the ABS setup.



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Regards,

Steve J.

 

[y-knot]

Ok, so far you have replaced the rear wheel speed sensor. What was wrong that made you do that?

Now there is a brake light switch that is located under the dash at the top of the brake pedal, release the locking tab from the notch on the mount and unplug the wiring connector. The switch has a plunger at the end of it, pull it out all the way to it fully extended positiion. This is the test position for the switch. Test for continuity between terminals 5 and 6. I f there isn't any switch is bad, it there is then push test button back in and read across terminals 1 and 2. If there is continuity switch ig, if it's bad.

If that checks out

Check metering valve... . have someone press on brake pedal while you watch to see if the rubber stem on valve moves slightly with each press on the brake pedal. Look at master cyl from drivers side, to the left of the master cly. is a small block with a couple lines going to it, and a black rubber button on the end of it. (this is the combination valve). You can put your finger on the button and should be abile to feel the stem go in and out as the brake pedal is pushed. If it does not move , valve is bad.

If that checks out...

Check pressure differential switch... . have someone press the brake pedal and hold it. Then go to to a back wheel cyl. and open the bleeder screew. As you release some fluid, the brake light warning lamp should come on. I guess if your light is already lite, then made this is a problem.

If the brake warning light comes on usally the problem is in what we covered. When the ABS light comes on, and stays on during vechial opperation, there is a problem with the ABS system. Everytime the key is turned on, the ABS system does a self test, if it finds a problem, the light will come on and stay on. It also store this info and can be retrieved. There is also a RWAL valve (under master cyl, next to combination valve), this to stores fault codes, and will cause the ABS warning lights to stay on.

 

[MKresch]

i had the same problem. took it to the ******* and they told me it could be a sensor or a bad toner ring. possibly cost around $600 to repair! :{ i left with the truck and said screw them. i crawled under the truck and found a smashed sensor wire. purchased a new sensor $54 and half hour to change it. if the abs light is on the problem is the sensors not communicating with the computer. check all of the sensors, wires, and connections. look for cut or smashed wires or possible corrosion in the terminals. maybe a cracked sensor.

 

[boeckm]

I had the same problem on my 92 W350, I found the cable and sensor and cable both bad. Dodge wanted about $75. 00 each. Ended up this dealer only had the cable in stock so I got it and found a sensor at www.rockauto.com for $24. 79 + about $6. 00 shippping it arrived in 2 days from Indiana to West Virginia. I installed them both and my light went out.

 

[MBean]

UPDATE!!!

Well guys... It turns out that after trying everything mentioned here (which help turn me in the right direction), I broke down and took it to the dealer. Their machine found it right away. The pasenger-side ABS sensor had gone out and then so had the ABS computer (confuzer?). I knew the pass. front sensor was bad from my testing procedures. Good news is that both are covered under the warranty (I am my own warranty station?. ?. ?). But for all those die-hard warranty station owners, the sensor is only +/- $73 but the 4-wheel ABS computer is $1400 by the time you pay for installation and taxes!!! :--) (The 2-wheel ABS computer is only +/- $400... )

Thanks for all of your help/guidance/etc. I was on the right track, I just couldn't see the road!