dashtop console/housing for switches

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KNowing that I have a managerie of switches to house soon (torqueloc, horn, e brake plus a few more) i wanted to find smoehting that would allow me to set them atop the dash either near my us gear guage pod or further to the right. Anyone have any ideas or even an exisiting product?

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KES - 1999 3500 cummins 4x4 QC - auto,3. 54,
ICQ# - 18873747
web site under construction:www.cyberonic.net/~kes

 

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not even a teeney weeney hint? #ad


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KES - 1999 3500 cummins 4x4 QC - auto,3. 54,
ICQ# - 18873747
web site under construction:www.cyberonic.net/~kes

 

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kes,

Mine are not exactly what you want but they work pretty good. I have an overhead shelf unit and fabricated a switch plate about 10" wide that fits from the shelf up to the roof and fits right infront of the driver. I have two rows of toggle switches. Only have 7 right now but have room to add about 5 more. I added the short round plactic red extentions and this makes the ends a little close together when the bottom row is flipped on and the top row is off, but they are staggered to fit between each other. Hope this helps and wasn't too long or confusing. Don't have any interior pictures yet but will try to answer any questions you might have.

Todd

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99' 3500 SLT Med. Red Metallic 163" W. B. Cab & Chassis with custom haulin' bed, sleeper, rear light bar, stainless runnin' boards, stainless cow catcher on front, 4" turbo back staight to 5" dual stacks behind sleeper, hadley "bully" air horns, galaxy 44 c. B. with texas star 350 and wilson 5000 whip, enough lights to see who's on either side of me any time of night, etc... ...

 

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Kes,

Have you considered a Radio Shack project box? These things come in a lot of shapes and sizes. You might find a long skinny one and mount it on the front of your console. They are made of black plastic and have a lid. You could mount it upside down with the switches thru what was the botton. The lid (now on the under side) would then hide the wireing except for a small exit hole and still allow access for whatever. Some ribbed black cable cover to get the wiring under the seat and it would look ok.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 08-01-2000). ]

 

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Both good ideas - I appreciate the feedback. I was unaware of the rad shack boxes I will investigate. I love the idea of the shelf mount - but I have avoided these shelves assuming they would be "in my face" or somehow limit my field of vision. And yes - I pretty much understood with the exception of never seeing any extensions for the switches. MOF that shilf would be nice - could add a lanyard pull for those Grover horns ole WW carl is working on in Michigan.

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KES - 1999 3500 cummins 4x4 QC - auto,3. 54,
ICQ# - 18873747
web site under construction:www.cyberonic.net/~kes

 

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One thing I forgot to mention. Staples sells sheets of vinyl stick on letters so you can label your switches. Looks professional.

 

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Try a company called Gall's in Lexington, KY.
They have an 800 # that I don't have at home but they are a police/fire supply house and have all kinds of switch panels. I use one of theirs mounted with an electronic siren mounted t0o the floor between the seat and the floor shifter.

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Denny

 

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I used the overhead console where you're supposed to put your garage door opener (my truck will never fit in a garage anyway).

It took me a while to figure out what to do with that "button" in the middle. I ended up putting the microphone for my hands-free cellular phone in there. Now I've got space for a total of 4 switches on each side of the microphone (if I ever need that many).

I ran the wires up the a-piller, under (above) the headlinder and left enough slack so when I take the overhead console out, it will reach the dash (so I can set it down there). I ran about 10-12 wires at once so I only had to do it one time. They're all different colors and all small (14-18 gauge) except for a 10-gauge black wire which goes to ground. Everything I add on is switched with a relay so no need for heavy wires up to the switch. I wire all my relays so that the switch closes the circuit to ground -- I love DC (I mean "direct current", not the other one). That way I've only got one wire running up there for each circuit and they all share a common ground

Now, each time I add an accessory, I just wire the relay to an unused wire under the dash, drill and install a new switch in the overhead and hook it up.

I had someone ask me if those switches and microphone were factory options so I guess it looks OK.

It was a lot of work the 1st time, but now it's super easy to hook up a new accessory.

Good luck.

Kyle

 

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I think I may have an old Galls catalogue around here somewhere - i'll take a look if I can find the right pile<G> - and the option for the o-head sounds really neat - my only concern would be that with things such as the brake I'd like the switch closer to my field of vision to throw while driving?
All great ideas - i do appreciate everyones thoughts.

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KES - 1999 3500 cummins 4x4 QC - auto,3. 54,
ICQ# - 18873747
web site under construction:www.cyberonic.net/~kes

 

[Archive]

It isn't up on the Dash but I have been thinking of putting a panel at the front edge of the fold down console and slightly above the seat.

How I would accompolish this is by adding a vertical member to my Brolin Bracket (a thing made by Mike Brolin a TDR member) which allows one to mount a CB vertically immediately in front of the seat.

With the right selection of switch handles a person wouldn't even have to look but would know which switch it is by it's different feel or configuration.

Haven't done anything yet, just thinking.

I like Joes idea of the project box, but that Torque-loc switch and wiring is BIG!

[This message has been edited by Nelson Buck (edited 08-02-2000). ]

 

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Galls has a web page. Here is the link to the switch panels for emergency vehicles.
http://www.galls.com/shop/viewproduct. jsp?catcode=129

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Jeff Bechtel
97 RAM,2500HD,Std Cab,4X4
4. 10 LSD,AT,LWB,plow,
ARE K-series cap

 

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wow - a galls link right to the page - thanx. if the torq loc switch isn't ammenable to a "switch box" that would reinforce a shelf mount (reminds me of when I did customized vans in the 70's) or a mount like the center CB bracket described. Hmmmm - anyone have an economical source for these shelf units? are there more than one choice? Will a 5'10" rather portly dude be blinded or bumping their head onces its in?

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KES - 1999 3500 cummins 4x4 QC - auto,3. 54,
ICQ# - 18873747
web site under construction:www.cyberonic.net/~kes

 

[Archive]

This isn't quite what you're looking for, Kes, but it's a very simple way to add on a switch panel. I bought a piece of 1/8th" thick 2" aluminum angle from a home improvement store (only available in a 4' length, but I cut it down) and mounted it on the underside of the dash. To mount the panel, I used existing screw holes that are used to mount the dash panel, so I didn't have to drill any holes in my truck. This photo isn't the greatest, but you can see the panel in the lower center. I labeled the switches by printing them on my computer using a large font and simply trimmed the paper and glued it above the switches. My overdrive and exhaust brake switches are push-pull switches on the shift lever. The switches on the panel are for fog lights, aux back up lights, aux fuel tank, etc. The only switch down there that I use quite often is the fog light switch. This method of building a switch panel isn't the most professional, and for me it was only temporary, but it became permanent. I thought I'd post this for the benefit of others who need a place for switches but don't want to drill holes in their trucks.
Before somebody asks, no, that's not a shift light in the upper left, it's an Auto-Meter Pro-Light oil pressure warning light, with the red night cover on. It's a VERY bright red light. If it comes on, there's NO WAY I or anyone else could miss it and keep driving with no oil pressure. Cheap insurance for an expensive engine!
Andy
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[This message has been edited by Andy Perreault (edited 08-02-2000). ]

 

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Just in case anyone is interested there is a picture of my switch panel on page 20 of TDR #27. It replaces the stock cup spiller on my '95.

 

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really like everyones idea. just goes to show how many ways you can do the same job and all of em' work great. kes, back to the shelf. I ordered mine out of JC Whitney. It's made by the same company that the custom dealers get em' from. The light grey matched my headliner real close. I am 5'10" also but a couple of buddies are over 6', the shelf itself is normaly high enough but the visors hang down in the way a little. I took mine off and never miss em'. Good luck which ever route ya take, plenty of good advice so far.

Todd

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99' 3500 SLT Med. Red Metallic 163" W. B. Cab & Chassis with custom haulin' bed, sleeper, rear light bar, stainless runnin' boards, stainless cow catcher on front, 4" turbo back staight to 5" dual stacks behind sleeper, hadley "bully" air horns, galaxy 44 c. B. with texas star 350 and wilson 5000 whip, enough lights to see who's on either side of me any time of night, etc... ...

[This message has been edited by cuminspwr (edited 08-03-2000). ]

 

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Since my truck did not have the compass-thermometer in it, I popped the blank cover out and mounted 3 switches and a LED indicator in there. Ran the wires through the headliner and down the A piller. Looks like a factory setup and was very easy to do. These switches power my blue light, siren, and wig-wag lights. Nothin better than a Cummins for a Fire-Rescue Support rig. #ad
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99 2500 Quad 4X4 Black 5-Speed
Cummins Longbed

 

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Shoot, I didn't think about that - Hey Todd. With that shelf mounted wouild you be able to see the computer (compass/mpg meter).
and yes - all good ideas - I thank you all.

 

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Kes,
Here's what I did. It was a real pain. If you want to use any part of this, be my guest. There are no patent infringements here. #ad
Let me know if you have any questions. I'll be glad to help as much as I can.
http://home. sprynet.com/~mousepadx/aronb01.jpg http://home. sprynet.com/~mousepadx/aronb02.jpg http://home. sprynet.com/~mousepadx/aronb03.jpg http://home. sprynet.com/~mousepadx/aronb04.jpg

(Sorry, I don't know how to post pictures and I think these images are just too big. )

Amianthus

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1999 2500 ISB QC SLT (No Leather!), 4x4, 5sp, 4:10, 275 inj. , 4"exhaust, Poweredge, Pac-Brake, A-Pillar gauge pod w/boost and pyro, Line-X, V-1, lights, siren, lic. plt. frame that says "Diesel Fumes Make Me Horny!", and much more goofy stuff. (Too much to be listed. )

 

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hey... ... not sure on the compass. I have the sunglass holder full of business cards and garage door opener holder with the air freshner in it model console..... lol. I think ya should though, but I'm not sure.

Todd

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99' 3500 SLT Med. Red Metallic 163" W. B. Cab & Chassis with custom haulin' bed, sleeper, rear light bar, stainless runnin' boards, stainless cow catcher on front, 4" turbo back staight to 5" dual stacks behind sleeper, hadley "bully" air horns, galaxy 44 c. B. with texas star 350 and wilson 5000 whip, enough lights to see who's on either side of me any time of night, etc... ...

 

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Jeg's has some switch panels for race cars. These are already wired and everything. The only problem is that are a little pricey ($50), and I could definitely build something like it for less, but it is an idea.