Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) "Day off" both trucks down

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission What/where is the power fuse?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) FYI Radiator drain cock

Status
Not open for further replies.
I was going to have a pleasant day off today to get some odds and ends done. I heard my wife hit the starter on her 95. It normally fires right off, but after 2 tries I took her my keys. She took my 94 and went to work. She called me from 20 miles down the road and said the check engine light was on and what should she do. I went in with my sons ferd and exchanged her rigs. I went right to the web and looked at the posts on check engine light. There was alot of talk about the engine heater staying on and frying the batteries and so on. I changed the heater relays from one truck to the other and the light is still on. The voltage stays at 14, it does not drop as if the heater was staying on. When you start the truck the check engine light does not come on for about 5 minutes. The temp is normal. Nothing is getting really hot. I looked in my Haines manual under check engine light and it took me to the codes. Do I need to have the stealer tell me which code is the problem? The 95 problem turned out to be the return line hose which I had replaced about 2 years ago. Napa gave me the wrong hose. I made sure I got diesel hose this time. If you guys can help let me know. My son is thinking about getting a dodge. I have told him to get a 2nd generation 5 speed like ours because of the P7100 fuel pump and the cabs are tighter. I think we have the best rigs on the road!!!!!! Thanks Ron p. s. My wife has the same addiction as Joe Donnelly, she read your story in the new TDR magazine she can't wait to bomb her truck.
 
Check p. 14-116 of the 1995 service manual to reference diagnostic trouble codes. That may help.

For your wife, there is no cure. However, I have never found anyone who wanted a cure :D
 
Thanks Joe

I've just got the Haines manual now which is very good and even has some codes. I think I may need to have someone "erase" the code after we figure out which one it is although I'm not sure. The only rig I've driven which was bombed was a 2001. My wife got to drive it too, of course. It was pretty amazing. To begin with do you get much extra power just sliding the plate? I wish you guys had been doing the bombing when I bought my new injectors at the end of 99 when I became a member. Oh well, its nice to have spare parts.
 
The Dodge manual is better but the other brands will do.



You can get codes several different ways, the most common ones are scanner or the ignition key.



For ignition key turn key on-off, on-off, on then count how many times the check engine light flashes. If two digit number there will be a pause between the first and second dilgits, if there are several codes (hope not) there will be a longer pause between code numbers.



For scanner nearest auto parts store.



For code(s) defintion the TDR forums. :)
 
Thanks Bill

I had found the codes and later in the day the on off on off on . The blinks gave me a 12 and a 41 to the best of my ability. The the 55 which is the finished signal came last. The 12 says "No codes. Problem with the battery connection. Direct battery input to the PCM disconnected within the last 50 ignition key on cycles". The # 41 says "Problem with charging system. Occurs when battery voltage from the ASD relay is below 11. 75-volts. I don't know what this means yet but it looks like I have a problem in my charging system. Anyone had these codes or know more? Ron P. S. I cleaned my battery post and it still comes on.
 
If I remember correctly there is a unit inside of PCM called LSR this is what controls alternator voltage output. ( I'm going to call it the PCM until I can verify name- my book is in the truck).



The PCM gets data from two components, it then determines what voltage the alternator(oops generator) puts out to keep batteries charged.



One component is the battery temp sensor it is located under the driver's side battery. It sends tempature reading to the PCM of course.

The other component is the ASD (automatic shut down) relay located in the PDC. The asd relay sends voltage readings to pcm naturally if the voltage is to low the pcm instructs the generator to start charging until voltage readings are within certain pre- programmed settings. If this doesn't happen a code is recorded and lights go on.



The engine speed sensor (and I believe its relay) has a part in this. The ESS turns on the asd relay ( but I think it does it thru the ESS relay).



Another member had this code( battery disconnect-fromPCM) come up a few weeks ago but I don't rember what he found to be wrong or fix.



But I would check out sensors,relays,fuses,wiring, connectors and grounds to any component remotely related to charging system including generator .
 
Don't worry about the 12 code. I've had it off and on in this and other Dodges I've owned.



It sounds like you're chasing the right problem and MM gave you some good info.



The codes will disappear in time, you need to cycle the ignition key 50 times. With me that takes about 2 weeks of normal use.
 
Thanks Extreme 1

Extreme 1, did your check engine light come on with your codes? Maybe it always comes on with a code. My light comes on after the truck has run for about 3-5 minutes. If I took off the battery post for 15 minutes to erase the codes like Paul Haller said in another post, would the light just come back again? He said "the 2nd gen. engine light is a sentry to alert you to an out of compliance occurance. It has no control over motor function and can only alert you". I am learning, Thanks Ron
 
Problem found

:D :D I was driving to work yesterday, light still on and suddenly my voltage dropped from over 14 to about 10. I thought about you guys who have had the engine heater stick on so I quick pulled the truck over and checked her out. Everything looked good, nothing hot. I was taking my daughters alternator, which also went out over the weekend to the auto electric shop. I had the guy check my alternator and it was bad also. He said that he see's about 8 mopars in his shop per week that have the codes that I did. He said that 90% of the time the problem is with the voltage regulater in the computer and the computer has to be replaced. Some times he will just hook up a external voltage regulator which will turn off the light and make the system work correctly. I was glad that I was in the 10%, the alternator cost me $100. 00 ($225. 00 from Schucks Automotive). He said the computer cost about $250. 00. I have had real good experiences with the guy's at Spokane Auto Electric. Always very helpful and answer all your questions. Thanks Ron
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top