DD 4" Exhaust Install: NO INSTRUCTIONS

[RobG]

This is very typical of my kind of luck. I spent the last three hours trying to get my stock exhaust out so I can install this 4" system before dark, now it's 4:07 PM and I'm ready to start and THERE ARE NO INSTRUCTIONS.

What's worse, it looks like you're expected to have to cut every G0dd@mnn piece. I do NOT call this a do-it-yourself system. Now I'm screwed. I'll have to install as much as I can from the turbo back (maybe 5' worth) and drive it over to a muffler shop on Monday while I lose a day of work. So that'll make this exhaust cost about double what I paid for it, PLUS installation. Great, just f-----g great.

Unbelieveable. If I could put my 3" system back on, I would, and I'd return this POS. I can't believe they'd ship a system without instructions AND that requires cutting.

Royally pi$$ed off,
Rob



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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, Edge EZ, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, and more!

 

[ARARAR]

WHOM did you purchase this exhaust system from? WHOM is the manufacturerrrrr?

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98. 5 2500 QC,SB W/ camper shell, whitw w/driftwood lower, 2wd,3. 54, loaded w/o leather,chrome Westin step bars, BD tc/vb and pressureloc,w/trans temp,4" BD exhaust from turbo back, firestone airbags, heavy duty pullrite hitch, Bug sheilds, 4x4 type mud flaps front and back, Amsoil bypass & air filter. Dual pyro-boost gauge,pillar mount, PS boost mod and elbow,
VA cpc and fuel pressure gauge, Pac-Brake.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Try this: install the downpipe from the turbo. Install the tailpipe and muffler. The hangers should be welded to the muffer clamps and it should be pretty easy to figure out which clamp fits where. Don't tighten any of this stuff yet. Then see what pipe and length is needed to connect the front pipe to the muffler. I am basing this suggestion on the fact that the headpipe will exit in a single, unchangeable location, and the tailpipe will have its exit and hump in pretty well defined locations. The other stuff goes in between #ad

Hope this helps. Open a cold one and relax, then spend some quality time with your little Ram #ad

 

[RobG]

Gee thanks Joe. Please, give me SOME credit.

Yes, it can be figured out. However, it is frustrating to be lying under the truck trying to decide which clamp goes where. Yes, the "D1", "D2", etc markings helped. BUT, since each hangar has the possibility of going into one of two OEM locations, it adds more confusion to the mix. I'm still not sure I got them on right.

Now... here's the thing. I CANNOT cut exhaust pipe and have it come out straight. It just won't happen. I had to make two cuts in my stock system ot get it out and both times, the cuts were crooked. Not to mention tiring as hell.

I installed the downpipe and the smaller segment behind it. I positioned them and tighted everything up. Then I slipped the long piece on next and hung it on the forward muffler hangar and clamped it down. Then I slipped my chromed turn-down tip over it and left the rest until I can get to a muffler shop on Monday. It exits just before the axle, and with the tip, at least it blows downward.

I started it up, and hoooweee it sounds just like a semi... just as loud too.

Now, here's my major beef. This system cost $440 with the TDR discount. That's MORE than I paid for the STAINLESS STEEL Borla system I put on my '98 Z28. The Borla was a 100% BOLT-ON installation that I did in a matter of an hour and a half (most of the time was spent getting the stock system out). You would think they could bother sending you lengths cut for your particular truck. It would not be that hard to do.

And ya know, if the long center section of pipe had been 12" longer, I could have had the whole system installed minus the muffler. So typical.

Not very forgiving,
Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, Edge EZ, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, and more!

 

[csutton7]

Rob G--if you own a skilsaw you can go to a hardware store and buy a metal cutting blade(buy 2) and you should be able to cut the pipe pretty straight--now if you think you f#$$ it up try cutting little pcs off of your stock system until you get compfortable--or if my wife let's me out of the house tomorrow I'll come over and give you a hand---I won't know until tomorrow-so we will have to email each other-- chris

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Rob,

Don't feel bad. I went through the exact same thing you did with a Jardine 4". Mine was supposed to be a simple bolt-on.

First the headpipe flange holes are too close to each other to fit the bolt pattern on the turbo outlet. Break out Die grinder.

Second, the pipes will not line up correctly. When I did get them str8 so I could use the OE hanger mounts, there was so much tension I thought I'd break the turbo of the exhaust manifold.

Also missing about 5' of pipe from the kit.

I had had enough of this. Wait a minute. OE exhaust is now in pieces, cut up with a Sawzall. What the **** do I do now? #ad


Stuck the muffler on the end of the headpipe and wired it up. #ad


I took the next Monday off from work (unpaid) and drove to Ted Jennaty's with just a head pipe and the muffler attached to that, to get a decent exhaust system installed. Paid 50 bucks out of my pocket to ship the piece of **** exhaust sysytem back, with a very nasty note.


I had steam coming out of my ears that Saturday afternoon too. #ad




[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 03-03-2001). ]

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Rob, I meant no offense. How could I tell what you knew or didn't know from what you wrote? I have heard that stainless is about $900 for our Rams. Price straight 4" aluminized pipe or bends sometime. Cost goes up fast with diameter and mandrel bending. I can't see the cost of stainless being worth it unless your climate is very corrosive. If you didn't want to run the muffler, you probably could have gotten the system that way. I have made straight enough cuts with a Sawzall, abrasive cutoff, or in a pinch with a hacksaw after I wrap masking tape around it, or draw a line around it with a marker, to help guide me.
Best wishes with your project.

[This message has been edited by Joseph Donnelly (edited 03-03-2001). ]

 

[RobG]

Sorry Joe, didn't mean to imply that I'd taken offense... my mood has improved quite a bit since that original post, though I'm still frustrated.

Now, as for stainless vs. not, I was just attempting to illustrate the fact that given the cost of the system, I think they could have given us all the pipe in the correct length.

I do intend to run the muffler... I was also saying that since they were shipping pipe too long, if they'd given us another 12", I could have gotten the whole thing installed without the muffler and not have to be running a 2/3 system that exits under the truck, before the rear axle.

And as for cutting, the only way I can see it working is using Chris' idea of the circular saw with a metal blade. Drawing a line won't help because a hacksaw blade will never stay straight for me.

With luck I can get the rest of it taken care of Monday at a muffler shop.

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, Edge EZ, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, and more!

[This message has been edited by RobG (edited 03-03-2001). ]

 

[High Voltage]

Have a beer and be happy!!Been there also and the beer helped. Helped with the cuts made them look straight. #ad
#ad
Good luck

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01,2500,2wd,L Bed,Auto,3. 54,Med Bronze,Tan Leather,All Options,Mag-Hytec Diff cover,DD4",Westach combo, Line-X(BOMBED)Soooonnn

 

[RobG]

I just took a drive with the system as it was when I finished yesterday -- ending just before the axle, no muffler or anything else.

HOLY COW this thing sounds SWEEEEET! Dayamn! I'm tempted to have the shop make it so I can swap the muffler in and out and put a straight-pipe in place of it.

The best part was when I pulled up to the drive-thru window at Wendy's, and rolled down the window. Before I shut the truck off (which I have to do just so they can hear themselves think), I could hear the turbo spinning at idle, very loudly. Oh wow. It was almost a sexual experience.

Driving home, I had an opportunity to get on it a little and row through the gears, and a gorup of teenagers walking nearby all snapped around to look the moment I got on it. The snap-woosh of the turbo is wild!

Rob


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2001. 5 RAM 3500 QC 4x4 ETH/DEE Silver/Agate 4. 10 USGear OD, Rickson 19. 5 Wheels, Edge EZ, SPA Guages, Psychotty, Firestone Airbags, Hellwig Rear Swaybar, Torklift Superhitch & Camper Tiedowns, Mag-Hytec Diff Cover, and more!

 

[R.E. Miller]

That sound is hard to beat, I passed a trucker and slowed back, he caught up to me @ 70mph just to see what was up. Of course when he flipped his jake on... . #ad


[This message has been edited by R. E. Miller (edited 03-04-2001). ]

 

[Jones]

Hey Rob and all,
For what its worth, there's a tool out there thats really slick for straight cuts on thin wall tubing every time. It's called an "Exhaust pipe and muffler cutter" and most tool stores sell them. It's an odd looking pair of pliers with a length of roller chain attached to one jaw. Every other roller pin carrys a cutter wheel like tubing cutters have. Loop it around the pipe, engage the chain in the other jaw and as you squeeze and rock the handles back and forth it cuts the tube. Mine works out to about 4" tubing and is worth every bit of the 30$ I paid. Hope this helps, Jones

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Jones
'84 Ramcharger w/CTD, non-gated 12, torqflite, NP205, Dana 60 and 70 w/ 3. 07s. Looks more or less stock.

 

[R.E. Miller]

Ha Ha yeah have a beer, same situation with my jardine 3. 5" system. Open box, realize no instructions, get ****** , install system. But I can say this, I called Jardine and actually got to talk to Jerry Jardine regarding questions I had on installation. They are very professional and understanding, I would buy from them again, sorry RobG.

Hey at least it wasn't like the BD 3. 5' I put on that was short on clamps... . bailing wire or sparks hmmmm. #ad


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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" straight pipe(thanks jardine!)
W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell

 

[Morphious]

I installed the 4" DD system this weekend. I have a QC Short bed. With the parts supplied, I used both the short straight and long straight and cut 4 inches off the long pipe and welded the two striaight pieces together so that it flared at both ends. Now I am trying to decide what I can used the muffler for? Maybe sticking it on my tractor or something. The truck now sounds like a peterbuilt and runs great. Just a couple of hours work, borrowed mig welder and cutoff saw.

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99 2500 4x4 QC Std transmission, Purple, 10 Disc Sony Changer, 285x75Rx16 BFG Mudders, Gooseneck hitch, 275lb King Klaw front bumper, Towing/Camper setup.

DDIII's, Exhaust, TTPM, Clutch, Guages are now installed an it rocks (fastest farm truck around).

1965 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup, 350-350hp/2spd powerglide, PS, PB, Disc Brakes on the front, Tilt, Fuel Cell, 3. 73 posi.

26ft Gooseneck Flatbed Trailer.

1960 Farmal 340 Diesel Tractor