Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) dd stage 3's and ez for towing

[CraigJohnson]

I know there are some guys here who have towed with this combo. I just want to hear a few more accounts of what egt's are like and how fuel mileage is affected. Power is strong I assume. I currently am running an ez and 275's. Its pretty hard to get egt's over 1150 with this setup. I'm looking for a little more bark but don't want to have to change the turbo to control ex. temps. I know a new cluth will be needed.



The truck is a 2000, 4wd, 6 spd with 4" exh. , and k&n. As preveously suggested, I have gagues already. I have a 100 mile daily commute so I don't want to kill mileage, and I will occasionally be towing 7 - 10,000 lbs.



Thanks guys,



Craig

 

[fj40charles]

If you're going to tow 7-10K and drive 100 miles each day, I'd consider getting DD2's unless you want to upgrade to a bigger turbo with DD3's. . Lower egts and better mileage with dd2's. I don't know about mileage since I don't check.



Charles

 

[BIG BOB]

I have Bully Dog III's and a PE Drag Comp. While towing my 8000+# travel trailer, I leave the Comp on 1x5. Under a hard pull uphill, there are times when I will have to turn the Comp off to stay under 1250 pre-turbo EGT's.



You might be better off with the DDII's to keep your EGT's in check.

 

[smilliron]

DD3s all the way!

I always wonder why everyone always recommends DD2’s for towing?? I’ve got 3’s, comp, and HX-40 and have NO problems if you turn the box down a bit. Only problem I have seen is passing people while towing 10K. Usually I keep the comp on 2 x 3 if under 8K behind me… if it gets hot, turn it down to 1 x 3 and I’ve never seen over 1250 – 1300 on very long pulls uphill with well over 10K in tow. Max so far for me with no problems is 27K gross combined… the coolant temp will get hot far before the EGTs are too high. And you can always let off the loud pedal before things start melting… JMHO



Oh... and mileage, well, it ain't pretty if you use all that fuel. I can usually average 9 or 10, but I don't baby it. Worst so far while pulling the 27K of hay was 8 MPG. Not bad considering weight, I didn't think.



-Sam

 

[fj40charles]

Sam,



The recommendation to go with DD2's were based on the fact that he has an EZ which does not provide the adjustability of a comp box. He also does not have an HX40 and drives 100 miles and is concerned about mileage.



Not slamming DD3's but it is not for everyone especially if you're running a stock turbo.



Charles

 

[Wolfgang]

Pulling my 10K with DD2's and the EZ on 6% grades I still had to back out of it to keep from going over 1250. I have the HY turbo. I am getting a Piersified HX35 and have a comp box, so we will see what that gets me

 

[willyslover]

Craig... sell the EZ and get a comp. that way you can adjust to your likings...



BTW... going east out of Bakersfield [Hwy 58] with a car trailer and a Cobra on it [aprox 7 / 8 k lbs. ] I had no problems with the EZ and DDIII's. . however I have an HX40... and you know I was passing everything

 

[Chipstien]

Interesting how each truck must vary. I had 3's and a HY with the wastegate disabled... . pulling 9000 pounds I never saw over 1200 with the Comp box off. I think that you would be fine but worse case you can switch to "timing only" on the EZ. Just my thoughts.

 

[CraigJohnson]

Thanks for all the input guys. This is pretty much what I expected - it seems a bit different for everyone. Willyslover, you bring up a good point. What I am actually trying to decide here is whether to go with a comp box or with stage 3's. The next set of injectors I buy I want to be the last, so I figure if I go that route, it will be the stage 3's. The concern is the lack of adjustability for towing to control egt's. So I have been considering the comp box which will offer me large power increases when wanted, but the ability to turn it down for towing. That seems to solve my problem except that I really would like to go with the largest injector I can handle before putting the strain on the vp44 with boxes. I kind of like the idea of getting my power out of the injectors first and then going on to electronics/pump when even more power is needed. But it seems at this point for my purposes, the comp box is the way to go, a bit more versatile. If I had an hx 40 or something similar, I'd probably start with the injectors.

 

[TDavidson]

Craig,



I suspect that you will encounter EGT problems towing (10,000 lbs) with DDIII injectors and probably at times, with DDII injectors. Although they are never a problem on level runs, I run into EGT problems every time I tow and encounter the long 6 & 7 percent grades in Arizona. Although I always have power left when climing the grades, I have to back out at 1200 or so EGTs before I reach the top of the grades. As you can seefrom signature, I have made most modifications to reduce EGTs other that the HX40. Thats in the works for next month, and hopefully this "one more mod" will solve the EGT problem.

 

[Diesel Junkie]

I am running DD111s and have pulled 9000# through the back hills of Tn. with no problem. Max egts are around 1200-1300.

I have disabled the wastegate and straitpiped it. I also just switched to the BHAF and now get less smoke over the K&N 0880 which apparently decided to collapse while hammering the right pedal.

I also just turned over 100k with no problems. 20k stock 35k with stage1s and the rest with 3s.

 

[CFAR]

With III's I will need a clutch, so the comp stays on the back seat, not to mention I need a new lift pump.



I agree with you do it right the first time!



Haven't towed anything heavier than about 6000, but no big hills yet either.



lol



By the way isn't the comp on 1x1 supposed to defuel more that stock?



Any experts want to tackle that one?

 

[LSMITH]

You will have a lot more useable power with the DD3's than you will with a Comp.



I have the DD3's and have no EGT trouble with the stock turbo, straight pipe and stock air induction. The 3's are just not that hot for me, but I will not back out at 1200, if I back out it is because I have been at 1300-1350 for a couple minutes. 1200 is easy to get, 1300 is hard, and 1350 is pinning it for over 30 seconds. I can have any load that I could reasonably pull at the speed limit in 30 seconds, and if the grade requires over 300 HP to pull you just have to slow down a bit.



With your 6 speed I just don't see how you can not have a gear that you can pull a 6% grade at GCVWR and still make 55 MPH if you add the 3's.



I would recommend the 3's.

 

[CraigJohnson]

Interesting post lsmith. Just when I thought I had made up my mind to go with the comp box. I'm just stuck on the fence here, I can't decide what to do. I like the versatility/adjustability of the comp, but really prefer the idea of injectors over the box. Anyone else?



Craig

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A big advantage of the Comp box, is a nearly infinite range of adjustment that allows incremental power increase to fit YOUR expectations and needs - yeah, the injectors WILL possibly deliver the same MAXIMUM power - but leaves little ability to tailor power application percentages beyond the accellerator pedal. The Comp can be set to function like an UNmodded truck at anything below a specific RPM/boost level, and then come on with maximum power ONLY in extreme demand situations - like towing up a steep grade - OR be set to come on at maximum capability nearly as soon as you start moving away from a stoplite. That sort of flexibility is NOT available with injectors only!

 

[fj40charles]

I'd go with a comp box and 275 injectors for the time being. Plenty of power for towing and maximum flexibility and good fuel mileage. If you want more power at a later time, then you can go with bigger injectors and a bigger turbo.



I've got DD2's and PE Drag comp. I run with the comp box on 1x3 majority of the time. 300 rwhp is plenty for me for general street driving.



Charles

 

[Bob Wagner]

Craig there is a guy on the NW BOMBer site selling a comp box that will work on your truck for 5 bills



Only has 5 hrs. on the box





comp 4 sale





flip the coin

 

[RCone]

I'd leave well enough alone and stay with what you got, if it were me. Let's see, if you go with a Comp box that would cost you another $250/300. If you trade injectors that will cost you another $200/250. Either way, you will need to add the price of a clutch $1000, just a matter of time. And, I agree with FJ40 that 300 RWHP is more than enough for towing. You can't really use much more than that. Plus, if you switch to Comp-warranty gone for sure on VP44. Bill K's towing package on DTT site is EZ and DD2's. JMHO.

 

[Chipstien]

DD3's..... nuff said.