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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) DD3 injectors

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) vp44 eater/superchips

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Ohio KDP Party

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If you want low 14s, you should look at an Edge Drag comp (or a PMAX competition box which is what I would do), some SuperMental injectors (or some righteous EDM Mach 4s from Don M), and some twins.



If you want to stick with a single, I would recommend DD's Jammer turbo (like Keith described above) or a Kwikspool B1. The b1 is a great turbo, but it's not cheap. A 35/40 hybrid is right on the ragged edge of low 14s with an automatic transmission (a SERIOUS auto-- DTT, ATS, etc. . ) With a stick, you're going to be about . 3-. 5 seconds slower.



I think the main reason that the DD3s are known to make so much heat is because of atomization. To move the fuel volume you need to make 115+hp, the holes have to be large enough to where atomization quality suffers when compared to the stock injector. Poorer atomization means less fuel is burning (and more slowly), so you end up with higher EGT. If you had super-duper atomization at the same amount of fuel flow, then your burn would be faster and more complete. Since there's less fuel still burning in the exhaust, you will have lower EGT.



Personally, I would look for an EDM injector if you are are looking at the 100+ hp injector range. They are more efficient.



If you are content with under 100hp, the honed injectors are fine. I have the DD2s, and these are practically considered THE STANDARD in street performance injectors. While a honed injector may not be as cutting edge as an EDM, they are still very nice under 100hp, and DD's injectors are the finest of that type. They have really "honed" (haha) their skills, and are the ONLY non-edm injector I can recommend enthusiastically. The lower cost honed injectors (BD, etc... ) just aren't as refined as the DD injectors.



Also, since the cheap RV injectors are no more, the DD injectors are a good value as well... who would have thought?

Hope this helps.



Justin
 
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Kaptn- I dynoed at 460 (sea level) my best time is 13. 91 at 101. My weight is 7000. There are to many variables (tires, altitude, 2wd/4wd, track, etc to really use those best guess hp conversions-look at the hp it would show if the guys running upper 11's used them.

2ndgen2500-I have a PDRHX40- there is some lag but I have lived with it. Drag Racing I build up the boost (10 psiwith slicks) before I launch so not much lag there. However from a dead stop it is quite noticable. Check my sig for the mods I have done to get to 13. 91. By the way the BUG bites deep-I have a set of twins, 5 inch exhaust, polished and fire ringed head and some Don M's Mach 5's going in next month. :rolleyes:
 
I am not going to start a dyno war here I hope and I am not a mathematician but isnt Horsepower something like weight. distance, and time and not a machine.
 
mlockner here in Denver running at mile high altitudes is running 13's with his truck. Checkout his setup! Very nice running truck, I drove it 2 weekends ago! Oo.
 
Calculate Horsepower using ET and Weight



Calculate horsepower using ET and Weight. This will generally be accurate within abount +/- 5%. The horsepower estimate that is calculated is rear wheel horsepower.

Calculate HP

Your car's ET 14. 0

Your car's Weight 7000









Results



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Approximate HP 504 -5% 479 +5% 529



I am not trying to fight with you guys, but dont you like the higher numbers the calculator provides

:D
 
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