Dead batteries

[jandu]

I have a 2010 diesel longbed automatic. The batteries were dead when I went to pick it up from the dealer in 2010. They charged up and I didn't have a problem for about six months when it happend again. I had it towed to the dealer to have it checked out. They charged the batteries and found nothing wrong. It has happend two times since then. I sometimes leave it parked for as long as 10 days and that seems to be when I have a problem. I charged the batteries and disconected the cables. The batteries seem to be holding a charge, but when I touch one of the ground cables to the battery, I get a spark. I don't know if this is normal because of the electronics on this vehicle or do I have something drawing down the batteries. I plan on taking it to the dealer in the next day or two and was wondering if anyone has any ideas I can pass on to the dealer.

Thank you

Jandu

 

[tp0d]

The computer and etc controls in the truck do use some power in standby. Thats where the spark is coming from. They make battery disconnects that are real easy to use. Might be a good idea. Would prevent theft too. .

-j

 

[Road Dog]

You should start by having the batteries load tested somewhere other that the dealer. Measuring the voltage or letting the battery sit doesn't tell you anything. It's also possible that some module somewhere in the truck isn't turning off. It's easy for the dealer to measure the ignition off current draw. The truck should be able to sit for a year and still start.

A spark is normal when you first connect the ground. All the modules will do a power on reset and then [should] go back to sleep.

 

[sag2]

In a perfect world they should be able to start after a year, but there is always an ignition off draw with any of the new cars and trucks. It should still be less than 60 milliamps, the newer vehicles are getting down to 15-30, but even at that your batteries will be dead in a month or two.

Make sure you don't leave your keys in the ignition, and be careful of aftermarket alarms and chargers plugged into power outlets.

 

[TFrench]

I've had problems with the hot lead bleeding to ground in my 7-pin trailer connector bleeding due to highway salt corrosion. About two years ago I installed a brake controller and two or three times now it has indicated a fault/short in my trailer wiring harness. I have thought about squirtying some brake cleaner in the socket but I've heard that it can melt plastic so I've refrained from that. I just take an old toothbrush, swish it around the socket to loosen up any crud, then blow it out with some air and I'm good.



I've read here or elsewhere where the wiring side of the socket can get corrosion buildup as well... . so far I haven't had that problem as cleaning out the trailer side of the socket is much easier and seems to do the trick



I like the idea of a knife switch, especially for a vehicle that may be sitting awhile between uses plus the extra security it provides. Good luck with your troubleshooting.

 

[jandu]

Thank you for the replys. I will follow your suggestions and pass this info to my dealer.



Thanks

Jandu

 

[Beast2B]

after you clean up the trailer plug and truck receptacle use a little dielectric grease on the connector and cycle it in and out a half dozen times. keeps corrosion to a minimum