Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I posted the following in the 3rd Gen section last night:
After a few months with no problems, my truck drained the batteries overnight again. I believe that the draw is a little above 10 amps, since it killed 2 multimeters that were 10 amp max. I also held fuses across the terminal and post and blew a 5 amp, but not a 15. Being a "Southern" engineer at heart, I then formulated the spark method. I methodically disconnected wires and pulled fuses and circuit breakers until there was no sparks when I brushed the negative terminal against the post. I would highly recommend that you NOT use the spark method, since I may have smoked the electronics, but I was on a mission.
I have, so far, traced the draw to the dark green wire with a white trace that is connected to a blue 18 gauge fusible link that is connected to the stud feeding the fuse box or, as they now call it, the integrated power module. This wire is directly connected to the battery, protected by the fusible link, and goes to the engine control module(ECM). I have not attempted to start the truck or read the codes since I have recharged the batteries to try to keep from resetting the problem for it to only reappear in another few days, weeks or months. Last time, I had the cooling fan speed code, which I can't recall the number just now, and replaced the electric clutch on the cooling fan. Then I revelled in my trouble shooting skills until late last week. :{
So here I am, looking for ideas, encouragement or any other form of divine wisdom. Maybe the name of a good auto electric shop in the greater Atlanta area.
No real updates, I am going to start looking at the wires and pull the ECM plugs off to see if I can isolate the problem.
After a few months with no problems, my truck drained the batteries overnight again. I believe that the draw is a little above 10 amps, since it killed 2 multimeters that were 10 amp max. I also held fuses across the terminal and post and blew a 5 amp, but not a 15. Being a "Southern" engineer at heart, I then formulated the spark method. I methodically disconnected wires and pulled fuses and circuit breakers until there was no sparks when I brushed the negative terminal against the post. I would highly recommend that you NOT use the spark method, since I may have smoked the electronics, but I was on a mission.
I have, so far, traced the draw to the dark green wire with a white trace that is connected to a blue 18 gauge fusible link that is connected to the stud feeding the fuse box or, as they now call it, the integrated power module. This wire is directly connected to the battery, protected by the fusible link, and goes to the engine control module(ECM). I have not attempted to start the truck or read the codes since I have recharged the batteries to try to keep from resetting the problem for it to only reappear in another few days, weeks or months. Last time, I had the cooling fan speed code, which I can't recall the number just now, and replaced the electric clutch on the cooling fan. Then I revelled in my trouble shooting skills until late last week. :{
So here I am, looking for ideas, encouragement or any other form of divine wisdom. Maybe the name of a good auto electric shop in the greater Atlanta area.
No real updates, I am going to start looking at the wires and pull the ECM plugs off to see if I can isolate the problem.
If any of the ECM outputs are fused, then it should be before the fuse since I have pulled all of them and still have a draw. I'm betting a chaffed wire and hoping it isn't in the ECM
