2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Dead gauges on a 1995 3500

[CStringer]

Hi guys, first post i the 2nd gen forum... just bought a 1995 Ram 3500, 12 valve, 5spd manual, reg cab 4x2. I currently dont have the truck, will be flying from Cincinnati to Palm Beach Florida to pick it up and drive it home. Have a bit of an issue tho... The truck runs good, has been garage kept, but the Fuel gauge, and the coolant gauge are non-working. Also, the radio doesnt work. Are all three related? The dealer I bought it from is looking into it, but I know you guys are alot smarter!

Where should I look/ tell them to look?

Thanks in advance

Caleb

BTW, truck has 90,300 miles on it

 

[ttbird]

No they are not all related. The fuel gauge most likely is the float which deteriorates over time. And the coolant gauge usually is the sender on the head. Check to make sure the wire is not broken or not connected. And the radio could be a fuse or the speakers have gone bad, if they are the infinity type with amps on the back of them, but unlikely that all would be bad at the same time. Could just be time for a new radio after 15 years.

 

[CStringer]

What's involved in changing the sending unit if i were to take one with me and change it before heading home?

 

[ttbird]

What's involved in changing the sending unit if i were to take one with me and change it before heading home?

I checked the location in the FSM and that sending unit is buried behind almost everything on the right rear driver's side head. Above the fuel filter and to rear on driver side. Brake booster and master cylinder are in the way. You can barely see it and it's under the cowl. The factory part number is 4720 314, don't know how much though. Here a link for Rock Auto. More Information for AIRTEX 1T1109. I would try to get the seller to change that sender. It's do able but a real pain in the butt. You could pull the wires off and clean them with contact cleaner and maybe it will work but that's too easy.

The fuel sender needs the tank dropped or bed lifted. Not something you want to do on the road away from home and all your tools.

 

[MAleshire]

Have you seen and driven the truck? If not, you might want to take a look at what maintenance is due before you start home. Particularly fuel filters. The fuel level sending unit can what. Probably need to get the temp gauge working. It could be either the sending unit or the gauge itself. My radio went out after 13 years, but the speakers were still in great shape. After checking, it was less expensive to buy a good quality new radio rather than get the old one fixed.

 

[CStringer]

Have you seen and driven the truck? If not, you might want to take a look at what maintenance is due before you start home. Particularly fuel filters. The fuel level sending unit can what. Probably need to get the temp gauge working. It could be either the sending unit or the gauge itself. My radio went out after 13 years, but the speakers were still in great shape. After checking, it was less expensive to buy a good quality new radio rather than get the old one fixed.

We're on the same page with the maintenance... i was contemplating doing a fuel filter change on the dealers lot... . lol

as for the other problems... the coolant gauge has been fixed... idk what the issue was, but their mechanic fixed it (I havent spoke with them about it, my dad has been doing most of the phone tag) Also, the mechanic said the fuel sending unit was faulty, and they are changing it out before I get there.

Radio, ya it sucks, especially with 1100 miles to drive home, but im thinking about tossing a small radio in my bag, and then plugging my ipod into it, to keep my mind occupied on the way. lol im just praying that the 12v charger works... . haha

oh, another question. If i change the fuel filter there, is there anything special I need to know about priming the system? On the 04, and 07, you just bump the key and it self purges/ fill the canister again. but that isnt the case on a 12v is it?

 

[CStringer]

oh, and just wanted to say thanks to ttbird for posting that info on teh coolant sensor... thanks for taking the time to do that... very good info to kno

 

[Missouri Mule]

To prime fuel system crack open supply banjo bolt to filter then push in on primer button on lift pump until fuel comes out of banjo bolt (about 30 pushes) tighten banjo bolt. Should start and run rough a 30 seconds but will smooth out.



My speakers went first after replacing them with oem speakers the radio quit working (did weird things). I replaced radio with one from electronic store way cheaper then oem radio.

 

[ttbird]

Bring a quart of clean diesel with you. After taking old filter off, check for o ring or gasket on threads that the filter screws onto. There should be a new one with the filter. Also don't forget to unplug the wif wires going to the sensor on bottom of filter before taking it off. You can transfer screw on sensor to new filter after you get it off. There is a o ring on it too, but I've never had to replace it when moving sensor. Fill new filter with the clean diesel, then carefully, without spilling any, put it back on. Tighten and start truck and keep the RMP's up til it purges the little air that you let in. I've had the truck stumble but never die doing this for years. If you get in trouble, there is a priming button on the fuel pump, and it's on the driver side of engine block, you can snake your down thru the clutter and push the button for what will seems like forever, or keep the RPM's up and you'll breeze thru with flying color. Just the way I do it. Good luck with evrything. Glad their mechanic changed the temp sensor. Ipod's a good idea, 1100 miles is a long way with no tunes. Let us know how you make out. God Speed, Tom

 

[CStringer]

thanks for all the advice guys. as soon as i get the truck home, Ill get alot of pics posted up. Truck is a beauty, only two cosmetic flaws on the outside... front bumper has sum rust, and the back bumper has a nice crease from a trailer getting into it... but ill replace both of them in time... 500 for both off ebay:-laf



only thing i dont like, is the interior is uglyyyyyyy! its the lovely red leather interior Dodge used... . hmmm gots a local upholstrey guy... . might be gettn sum changes done next year.



I still cant believe its a garage kept, 95, with only 90k on it. Gonna be a great backup truck. Our 04 and 07 are on the road alot, and down time = lost business. Cant take that risk. plus, its a great write off before the end of the year.



BTW, anybody wanna buy a 87 Ford F350, great body/paint, flatbed, reg cab, dually, with the 6. 9 v8 diesel, auto transmission??? Will make a good deal!



Thats actually hwo I found the 95... looking for a 12v donor for the ford. But got such an amazing deal on the ram, and it was in such great shape, it time to get rid of the ford. lol



oh and as for the radio, any way to adapt a newer dodge radio in its place? I have the cd player out of the 04, that has nothing wrong with it... any sort of plug/play harness?

 

[CStringer]

So... I got the truck home safely. averaged approx 21mpg doing so as well... 1130 mile trip, one way.



The fuel gauge is fixed, and the temp gauge works, but not exactly. it goes up to what the actual temp is, but then falls all the way back down to cold. then slowly builds back up, and falls back down. At first I thought air pockets, but it is soooo consistent in what it does, that it has to be either the sending unit, or a bad ground. Here is a vid of what it does



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So, what do you guys think? On the list of next to do projects, is to install LarryB's contacts/plunger on the starter (giving me fits), tab the KDP (if not done already) and remove the fuel pre-heater. Can anybody link me to a how-to on the removal? I found links, but they were all dead...



Thanks again



Caleb

 

[CStringer]

sorry for the bouncy video... was taken somewhere on i-75 on my return trip home, with my iphone... lol

 

[ttbird]

Don't worry about the swinging gauge. Mine has gone up to temp. , about 190 and will drop back down to around 140. This has been happening since new. There's such a large amount of coolant fluid in the radiator that when the thermostat opens and all that cooler water in the radiator enters the engine, the gauge drops down and then slowly builds back up to 190. It does this summer or winter and seems to never stop, but does slow down the longer the engine is run. Search the 12 valve engine forums for many posts about this happening.

Check with Joe G for removal instructions, he's the guru of fuel heater problems.

 

[ttbird]

Here's Joe's post about removal. It's post #11 in this thread. https://www.turbodieselregister.com...nsmission-1994-1998/216425-hard-starting.html

Welcome to the 12 valve clan. Glad your trip home was uneventful. It's great getting such great MPG from a 12 valve. Alot of new trucks don't come anywhere close to this mark. Mine is now controlled by the right foot. Anywhere from great to semi poor. Depends on my mood.

 

[CStringer]

Ok, so i yanked the starter today, and the battery side contact was shot!

#ad


It was all i could do to get it started so i could pull it up onto my ramps... . my fat butt couldnt hardly get under the truck without it...

As I was about to put the starter back in, I noticed how ez it was to get to the fuel pre-heater. So, after I bathed in diesel, slapped it all back together, and after about 3 revolutions, ITS ALIVE!!

fires right up now... . so wonderful!

 

[CStringer]

so, nothing gets done with the wire harness that was attached to the fuel heater? and what really was the point of that thing anyways if it can just be yanked without any issues?

 

[ttbird]

Another Dodge engineer's great idea. If you lived in Alaska or other extremely cold place, it might serve some function. Cummin's has alot of engines applications out there with no fuel heaters installed, and they all start. Now with that said, mine is still on but I don't think that I would spend the cash to fix it, if it breaks.

Just let it hang or tape it up if you feel so inclined.

 

[surfbeetle]

Congrats on the truck. The basics you need to pay attention to:

The fuel sending unit is in the fuel tank, when it goes bad, the fuel guage fails to read correctly, you must drop the tank or remove the bed to access it.



Your coolant guage is working correctly, mine has done that since it was new, I'm at 192,000 and it still does the same thing. It's caused by the thermostat opening/closing.



The fuel hoses at the back fo the engine will need to be changed, they rot and let the engine loose prime from the fuel system.



Change your starter contacts from Larry B's contacts.



Check your fuel solenoid, you will need to change the rubber boot on it. The 25. 00 boot is cheaper than the $200. 00 solenoid.



Make sure your rear window is sealed up, it can leak and make the passenger side foot area wet.



Add a piece of hose to the Air conditioning vent on the passenger, engine side of the firewall and route it downwards. It can get clogged and again wet the passenger side foot area.



By the way, my 95 has been the best truck I've ever had. Because it's been so good, as much as I want a new one, I can't justify the expense of a new truck.

Good luck!

 

[CStringer]

ive tried searching, but not found exactly what im looking for... does anybody know of a "kdp walkthrough" thread? something i can look at to help me get my head around what is involved on the kdp fix?



estimated time to do the fix?



Thanks guys



Caleb

 

[surfbeetle]

I did mine with the kit from TST Products. They probably still have the directions on their website for download. The kit is the "tab" method and costs around $50. 00. Assuming that your dowel pin has not fallen out yet, the basics are as follows.



1. remove radiator (optional but makes for more space when working and less chance of damaging the radiator)

2. remove engine fan

3. remove front gear case off of engine

4. drive dowel back into gear case, replace bolt with longer bolt with loctite and tab to prevent dowel from popping back out.

5. remove other bolts one at a time holding up the gear case, clean and apply loctite, reinstall.

6. install new seal on gearcase cover

7. apply sealant on gearcase cover and reinstall.

8. install fan

9. install radiator.



It took my father and I several hours, he is a heavy duty diesel mechanic by trade. It wasn't that bad because he is familiar with the procedures involved.