Dealing with the heat

[ARigutto]

Performance Temperature and pressure table on 24-3

Ambient 70* : Center panel outlet 45*
80*: 45*
90*: 55*
100*: 55*
110*: 64*

Table also has the Condenser out pressure at service port (High side) if you need those as well.

Sure if you don't mind. I missed a majority of the super hot weather here and the A/C was barely able to keep me cool. Ill do some testing with it and it doesn't hurt to cross reference more data.

 

[Tuesdak]

I am assuming the clutch is probably the same one from the factory or it is at least 10 years old. So when the A/C is on does the ECM command the fan to come on a little bit?

Yes. The fan should be roaring out here in 2 blocks at 25 MPH with the A/C on from a cold start.

Simply replace the unknown age fan clutch with a MOPAR unit. If the fan is kicked out at idle "the fan" should be spinning around 650 RPM Minimum. Any slower like 350 RPM and it will have trouble (slow to respond) kicking in. The factory test procedures on these types of fans for all OEM's suck and omit several failure modes. Wait 15 min for the fan to do something, well, the A/C has exploded by then. The problem is old fans no longer spin fast enough for the aged silicone fluid to move. Further the A/C doesn't have a way to shut off if the high side is overheating so it dumps 1/2 the refrigerant out. Then the passenger side is warmer the the driver side - classic sign of low refrigerant.

I had an alarm on my Smarty Touch at 400 psig for the A/C high side and watched fan RPM with it. I pushed the old fan clutch as far as it would go (couple years too far really) and the result was frequent A/C recharges.

In depth of the no cut out for the A/C before it dumps 1/2 the charge at 450 psig +...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...rams-ecm-defect-opening-the-ac-relief.258779/

Results of a Thermal Dispersant on an AC condenser

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...thermal-dispersant-on-an-ac-condenser.264486/

 

[ARigutto]

Yes. The fan should be roaring out here in 2 blocks at 25 MPH with the A/C on from a cold start.

Simply replace the unknown age fan clutch with a MOPAR unit. If the fan is kicked out at idle "the fan" should be spinning around 650 RPM Minimum. Any slower like 350 RPM and it will have trouble (slow to respond) kicking in. The factory test procedures on these types of fans for all OEM's suck and omit several failure modes. Wait 15 min for the fan to do something, well, the A/C has exploded by then. The problem is old fans no longer spin fast enough for the aged silicone fluid to move. Further the A/C doesn't have a way to shut off if the high side is overheating so it dumps 1/2 the refrigerant out. Then the passenger side is warmer the the driver side - classic sign of low refrigerant.

I had an alarm on my Smarty Touch at 400 psig for the A/C high side and watched fan RPM with it. I pushed the old fan clutch as far as it would go (couple years too far really) and the result was frequent A/C recharges.

In depth of the no cut out for the A/C before it dumps 1/2 the charge at 450 psig +...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...rams-ecm-defect-opening-the-ac-relief.258779/

Results of a Thermal Dispersant on an AC condenser

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...thermal-dispersant-on-an-ac-condenser.264486/

I will just go ahead and order the clutch and replace it before bigger problems arise. I will also try to just us my A/C when necessary until the new part is in. I also currently don't have a monitor and haven't gotten a change to put my gauges in yet. I am looking for a monitor right now and just am not sure which to go with. I should be able to get it in soon and we will see what happens.

 

[Tuesdak]

Anything over 45 MPH the fan isn't needed for A/C. When the part arrives you can check the system has the same temp out all vents on high.

 

[ARigutto]

Anything over 45 MPH the fan isn't needed for A/C. When the part arrives you can check the system has the same temp out all vents on high.

Thanks for all the help and I can't wait to see the results.

 

[Ozymandias]

Sure if you don't mind. I missed a majority of the super hot weather here and the A/C was barely able to keep me cool. Ill do some testing with it and it doesn't hurt to cross reference more data.

Did you set it on Recirculation?

 

[ARigutto]

Did you set it on Recirculation?

Yeah I do and normally the blower is either on full speed or 3/4.

 

[Mhennessy]

FWIW,
My truck runs unloaded 190-195. Towing I will see 190-205.
Recently my truck unloaded was running unloaded 195-200 and towing 200-210. Still nothing to worry about but not the normal for this truck.
I started small and replaced the T state with an OEM 190 and she is back to normal. I threw the old state in the truck box for in case of an emergency.
Good luck.

 

[ARigutto]

FWIW,
My truck runs unloaded 190-195. Towing I will see 190-205.
Recently my truck unloaded was running unloaded 195-200 and towing 200-210. Still nothing to worry about but not the normal for this truck.
I started small and replaced the T state with an OEM 190 and she is back to normal. I threw the old state in the truck box for in case of an emergency.
Good luck.

I replaced the thermostat when I put the engine back in, but that doesn't mean it isn't faulty or obstructed. I drove over 4000 miles with no incident just in cooler weather. I took some time and rinsed out the condenser, intercooler, and radiator the best I could without removing them and it seemed to help. It has been cooling off here, so I won't now for sure until we get the high temps of summer back. I am going to replace the Fan clutch and blade anyway just so I don't have to worry about that becoming an issue.

Thank you for the response.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Yes. The fan should be roaring out here in 2 blocks at 25 MPH with the A/C on from a cold start.

Simply replace the unknown age fan clutch with a MOPAR unit. If the fan is kicked out at idle "the fan" should be spinning around 650 RPM Minimum. Any slower like 350 RPM and it will have trouble (slow to respond) kicking in. The factory test procedures on these types of fans for all OEM's suck and omit several failure modes. Wait 15 min for the fan to do something, well, the A/C has exploded by then. The problem is old fans no longer spin fast enough for the aged silicone fluid to move. Further the A/C doesn't have a way to shut off if the high side is overheating so it dumps 1/2 the refrigerant out. Then the passenger side is warmer the the driver side - classic sign of low refrigerant.

I had an alarm on my Smarty Touch at 400 psig for the A/C high side and watched fan RPM with it. I pushed the old fan clutch as far as it would go (couple years too far really) and the result was frequent A/C recharges.

In depth of the no cut out for the A/C before it dumps 1/2 the charge at 450 psig +...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...rams-ecm-defect-opening-the-ac-relief.258779/

Results of a Thermal Dispersant on an AC condenser

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...thermal-dispersant-on-an-ac-condenser.264486/

TDR never disappoints, you'd hard pressed to find this kind of specific, critical and indepth knowledge of vehicle systems as it pertains to these trucks anywhere else.

I've never had a functioning A/C system since I took ownership of my 03 after 4 previous owners. A/C clutch was pretty much dead, I don't recall morning sickness in my first two log books. My vents barely got used because my blend door motors are all shot. I'm lucky enough they stuck where they were and I can get some air out, else wise I just open the windows. A/C condenser clutch cycles on and off even with a new Mopar fan clutch. I have to do some digging into my system when I get my truck back. I had temps on a 6% grade in 5th gear that I shouldn't have had given the aftermarket cooling system components I've installed.

Any recommendations for a condenser and compressor kit? I know a local shop able to coat the condenser. I've been lucky enough that my compressor didn't lock up as rough as it runs.

 

[Tuesdak]

Any recommendations for a condenser and compressor kit?

Direct from the OEM supplier for the compressor linked below. I would get the other stuff from MOPAR. The cost to coat the condenser makes it a $400 plus part: So use the best parts you can get your hands on. The CKO garbage at the local parts house isn't the best you can get your hands on: it's the cheapest in the race to the lowest price.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/sanden-direct-ac-compressors-for-1996-2005.264977/

 

[Darkbloodmon]

much appreciated!

 

[Darkbloodmon]

I recently installed an OEM clutch fan and I'm having issues with it even with my upgraded cooling and intake system(Rad, intercooler), I was going up a 6% grade in 5th gear with roughly 400lbs of payload in the bed and I was still cresting over 200*. This is in NC ambient was maybe 80- high 70s from memory.

Just discovered that my brand new Mopar fan clutch's harness is chopped, Engine harness pigtail is still ok. Didn't even realize it was gone. This is why my temps got higher than typical. If I didn't have the coolant bypass or larger aluminum rad I would've gotten real hot on that climb. No codes pertaining to it on my 03 since its been chopped, No starting issues etc. That these clutches can cause when not working.

I'm not privy to the noise of the cold start roar as the previous fan clutch with its harness intact was non operable. I've been driving two years without it and winding down the window for A/C. Just recently got a new fan clutch on it but I haven't had a lot of drive time since my truck was at a shop for a while.

 

[Ozymandias]

No Codes on my 04.5 either when it chopped its wiring last year.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

No Codes on my 04.5 either when it chopped its wiring last year.

For all the codes and conditions this component can cause I find it a bit strange that a disconnected harness wouldn't pop any lights. On the other hand I'm more than happy to shut my mouth and take any luck I can get right about now.

 

[ARigutto]

For all the codes and conditions this component can cause I find it a bit strange that a disconnected harness wouldn't pop any lights. On the other hand I'm more than happy to shut my mouth and take any luck I can get right about now.

Happy you were able to come up with an answer. I noticed today that my radiator cap is leaking a little bit, So I am gearing up for a weekend or two of wiring and cooling system fixes. I hope the fan clutch harness on my truck isn't hacked anywhere but I'll have to do a inspections when I replace the clutch and the fan.