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Death wobbe worse after all new bushings!!!

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Went through a ton of work installing all new upper and lower control arm bushings and rebuilding my adjustable track bar only to get in the truck and it shake worse than before. Everything is tight ive tried max castor both ways truck has the 08 plus steering upgrade I dont know what to do now. The only thing I have left is balljoints which are somewhat loose but arent just flopping around. the truck starts doing it around 60 when going around a curve and you hit a bump it will go to shaking and jumping around. Any luck my balljoints are causing this im really at whits end with this truck.
 
also did some messing with is today I took it and towed the tires in and the more I toe it in the calmer it gets but it got to the point where you could here the tires scrubbing so to me that seem like it may be balljoints as toeing it in is keeping pressure on the hubs keeping them from ouncing around. Or am I way off base here.
 
I just.can't see spending that.much on ball joints I usually don't keep trucks to awful long I've looked everywhere for the Raybestos pro grades and it seems moog has bought them ot as well
 
Be very certain of your tires condition and especially balance.
The one time I got it,the tire balance had been sabotaged by a tire dealer's employee on his last day.
A quality E-rated tire sure helps.
 
Tires and shocks, tires and shocks. If it is happening when you hit a bump the tires and shocks are not damping the rebound correctly. What tires? What weight rating? How old? What shocks and how old?
 
pro comp 6 inch lift shocks and not telling and tires are goodyear all terrains i think trans force the seem to ride well. The truck is lifted 6 inches idk if thats helping its case. Would changing castor and toe affect shocks and tires causing it though, its worse when im going around a curve and hit a bump I just figured with all new bushings maybe it would at least help but it made it worse.
 
About 5 years ago I was told that the NAPA's were made by Spicer. I have seen others post here that this is no longer true.
 
I know spicer bought out mquay norris/raybestos or vice versa but from what I was told raybestos is no longer around that moog/affina bought them and are selling the moog designed joints. I had a guy at napa tell me that they were moog then I had another one tell me they were LUK branded in their premium lines. Just noticed on their websight the picture is the exact picture of the raybestos pro grades. I ordered a set of uppers ad lowers. Checked tire pressure today and they were both fine also shocks seem to ride well when its not shaking like a cheap stripper so I guess they are ok for now.
 
Affinia has bought about all the drive line and suspension manufacturers around and superseded the good parts with cheap(er) junk. Would guess they are all Moog design and build as that was the cheapest solution. Total garbage on our trucks.

There are really only 3 good choices left, Carli, DynaTrac, and XRF.

If you don't have noticeable play in them likely not the problem. The 6" lift is generating different angles of attack on the ground and probably messing with tires and shocks. If the shocks aren't Bilstein, Fox or King they could be the source. If you have a tall tire on a short rim and it is not rated for close to 4000 lbs per tire you have too much bounce.
 
No the are 265s on them but I had planned on dropping it just don't want to spend a grand plus to drop it and end up with them same problem. Noticed today my axle.isn't perfectly centered, would that have any effect. Also heard xrf quality.has went to crap. I just.don't have alot of play in the joints I jacked the front.up today and pushed and pulled and there is a.small audible bump and maybe 1/8 of play at most at top of the tire but no noticeable movement at ball joint. Maybe wheels bearings?
 
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Axle being not being centered sure doesn't help the stresses on the suspension. Not sure it would cause DW but a combination of things could. Ride is not a good indication of shocks working correctly, In fact, if rides too well that will cause DW. Anything over a 4" lift and things get really unpredictable.
 
Yea no kidding like I said im wanting to order thuren track bar 3 inch springs the overland shocks front and rear and drop it to 3 in the front and stock in the back to make it level just dont want to drop 1k dollars plus all the little stuff like bumpstops and u bolts just for it to do the same thing. my control arms will work as they are only half inch longer than factory with the 3 inch kit but track bar wont you cant run the pro comp trac bar without the drop bracket its set forward of the original mount for some reason,
 
No the are 265s on them but I had planned on dropping it just don't want to spend a grand plus to drop it and end up with them same problem. Noticed today my axle.isn't perfectly centered, would that have any effect. Also heard xrf quality.has went to crap. I just.don't have alot of play in the joints I jacked the front.up today and pushed and pulled and there is a.small audible bump and maybe 1/8 of play at most at top of the tire but no noticeable movement at ball joint. Maybe wheels bearings?

I didn't have a lot of play in my ball joints either, even had two different mechanics look at it and they said the same thing. After I started pulling everything apart I found out that the upper ball joints had quite a bit of up and down play in them.
 
mine do have a bit of up and down play if you put a breaker bar under them when they are picked up. I was under the impression they were supposed to have soe up and down.
 
After pulling mine apart I was surprised they lasted as long as they did, Carli's website gives a discription of the factory ball joints. Also TDR issue 91 pg 16 has an article on different balljoints,and what to look out for. Hope this helps, good luck.
 
Ah thank ya lots. Looks like ill be spending 250 at napa on some ball joints after all. Father in law said he thought the company LUK that is building their chassis part line is using the same patent that was for the raybestos pro grades.
 
The upper king pin style BJ is built with lots of vertical movement in it. It is not designed to carry weight only center the upper part of the knuckle. The causes problems when the lowers wear laterally and ball will not stay centered, the lower walks out of center and the moveable upper BJ allows it. Two ways to fix it, a full ball joint on top that carry's part of the weight and doesn't allow vertical movement or better parts to limit the wear. The way the suspension system works inherently stresses things laterally and causes the accelerated wear, lifts just make it worse.

You will likely have to get the 1/2 degree offset up to get the style that does not have vertical movement, none of the standard BJ's I have found had anything but king pin style.The OE uppers in NAPA chassis are not that good, lucky to get 20k out of them on our roads. The Raybestos Pro's I have are going on 100k with no slack or appreciable wear. I cannot say as much for the drag link BJ's, the t-type steering upgraded drag link ends are seriously deficient in strength with the NAP chassis. Tie rods end are good but drag link is a problem. Nest step is a cross over steering with large BJ's to support the weight and abuse just driving to the store entails.
 
Hope you found your problem, if not how old is the steering stabilizer? The number one culprit for DW phone calls ends up being load range D tires. Make sure you have load range E. Also I have had customers install the 08 steering upgrade with bad parts out of the box, check your tie rods even though they are new. Is there any play in your steering before or after the box?
 
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