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Death Wobble out the wazoo

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Ok, does anyone know what I need to do to fix these few problems? If I drive on a bumpy road too fast, my truck gets the death wobble like something awful (thats when the front end starts wobbling real bad and you have to slow down to about 25 to get it to stop) What needs replaced here??? NEXT: When I let off the throttle and coast, the transfer case shift lever vibrates erratically and the whole truck shakes. When I pulled in the driveway tonite, put it in neutral and let the clutch out, I heard a chatter in the transmission. Anyone know??? I'm good with the cummins, but when it comes to the truck and transmissions, I'm lost #ad
Maybe I should get a 100KW Onan generator with a 5. 9L and bomb it since theres nothing I dont know how to fix on those. Someone please help because I don't want to be forced to go buy that 2000 QC 24 valve thats in the paper #ad
Thanks

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  • '93 250 LE 4x4 5spd 4:10 Loaded,dual 5" chrome stacks,12cm² turbo(37psi),PW injectors,K&N,pyro/boost,US Gear E-Brake,tool box,CB,10" AR rims, 285/75/16 Bf goodrich. "wirenut_21529" on Yahoo Messenger
  • '97 Ford B-Series school bus (5. 9 Cummins!)I'm gonna Bomb it!
  • '94 GMC 2500 6. 5L Turbo
PICTURES.
 
The "wobble" sounds like a possible steering column shaft to gear box joint connection-wear problem. That little box can be replaced with mopar parts, or go to a borgenson shaft. (grab the shaft from the steering column and try to "wobble" it- a quick test to the condition of the innards of the connection box. One more consideration would be that the leaf springs have flattened from the trucks age and weight of the engine, this will throw the pitch of the axle off, hence throwing the caster/ camber out. One fix would be wedges in the axle perches to return pitch to home position. Best fix is new springs( at least main and re-arch the rest).
 
The truck was in neutral with the engine running and making a racket?

On one of my previous trucks, it sounded like I had golf balls rolling around in my transmission, the problem was the input shaft bearing on a T5. Good luck - still luvin the stacks!

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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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Ok, guys your on the right track sounds like. Thanks. I just replaced that steering coupler thingy. I figured that out myself, it wasnt too hard. The draglink was replaced within the past year and I dont think its worn out yet. The tie rod ends might be part of the problem. And about the springs being worn out... . yes! but I just put lift shackles on to level it out, but I'm sure its out of alignment. I think I will get it aligned and rotate/balance the tires and see where Im at on the shaking... . now, about this transmission, that thingy that unclebilly said doesn't sound like fun. I can't do transmission work and the stacks are too high to take it to the garage! I wouldn't want to pay them anyway. Maybe this is my excuse to try that fuller/eaton 9spd conversion I've been pondering over! Thanks for the input guys.
 
**** Stacks! I have to pay an extra $23 to run across the ferry, an extra $40 if I have a trailer. Usually I unbolt them!

Another thing that was buggered on mine was the drag link, it was in good shape but was loose in the pitman arm. The castleated nut when tightened didn't engage with the cotter pin.

As for the input shaft bearing... have fun.


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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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Found one of my major driveline problems today. Grabbed the driveshaft and shook it, and I thought is was gonna fall on me! 2 new U-joints on the way. Then we'll see where were at.
 
Hey Wirenut, You say you put in some shackles? can you expand on that? I had wobble once and it went away when i rotated the tires (tread low). There can't be any looseness in the steering linkage at all. I firmly believe that these trucks don't have enough positive caster, that is the inclination of the kingpin (top back), the more the better tracking and wheel return to a degree. If there are lift kits and such installed and the + caster is reduced the truck will dart around and might wobble. I think you found your vibration-in the Ujoints.

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'92 W250,3. 54,auto,reg cab, raven hi top cap, tach,boost,transtemp,pyro. 16cm housing.

1971 Plymouth Duster 340 Autumn bronze, Black buckets/console. 8 pt roll cage, other racing mods. 12 second bracket racer. BOMBing not done yet!!
 
One other possibility...

If your U-Joints are not aligned on each end of the drive shaft, you will get premature driveline wear and one hell of a vibration.

Theis is because as the drive shaft rotates, it speeds up and slows down (the angle at the U-Joint causes this). If the U-Joint at the front and back aren't aligned, the drive shaft is forced to twist slightly during revolution. This is also why the drive angle at front and rear of the driveshaft should be close.

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91. 5 CTD 4X4, 5" Stacks, Tweaked Pump, 33" Boots (in the summer), Unlimited Slip,
Big, Bad Dodge
 
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The shaking and all that is gone! #ad
The new U-joints did the trick- fixed a lot of problems, but I still get the death wobble. As I get money for this stuff, I will start trying replacing stuff and let y'all know.
 
Wirenut,
real quickie here, look at your motor mounts, the rears on my dump truck were shot, didn't remedy my death wobble, but elimnated suicide clunks. #ad


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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" Jardine, Swiss cheese air box
1992 W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell
 
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