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Decent backup lights

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Depending how much Ca$h you want to shell out..... I went with Piaa's (kit was 175. 00) But comes with everything plug ' n play relay---> switch all in a pre wired harness. The nice part is the small pushbutton switch with an "indy" #ad
Cator that glows red or green when in use.

Hard to see 'em but when they are on... . They are on!

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<font color=#E02020><font size=3>Truck Bio:</font>
Y2K+1 <font color=#2F4F4F>3500 4X4 Quad Cab</font> L. S. D 4:10:1 Powerpacked (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,wastgate mod to 38 psi,otto +guages,K&N) , Jakit's Front End Leveling Kit with 255/85R16 <A HREF="http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/" TARGET=_blank><font color=#2F4F4F>BFG</font></A> <A HREF="http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/catalog/radial_mud_terrain_ta.html" TARGET=_blank><font color=ff0000>M/T's</font></A> Custom Rhino Liner (see tool man's truck feature)DeeZee Goodies, Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. Rubber side down & shiny side up can get a smile at the end of each day(hopefully)<A HREF="https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/001793.html" TARGET=_blank><font color=#E02020>See The Rig Here</A>
<A href="mailto:ToolManTimTaylor@aol.com"> #ad
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Fuzz-

Here's how I plan on wiring mine. Everything but the right-hand relay (the one controlled by the switched ground) is wired and working.

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-Don
 
I think Doug's suggestion is better than what everybody else (including myself) has been saying: If you need to have the engine running, truck stopped, rear work lights on, just put the stupid transfer case in neutral.

Of course, this only works for those of us with 4WD. It also doesn't address the "tailgater abatement program" idea (which is probably a bad idea, anyway). But, I think I'll do what Doug suggests, and free up another one of my relays at the rear.

-Don
 
As a matter of fact, I have a few:

Rear view:
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Mounting:
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My aux electrical box (left rear):
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Lights on - to compare with factory (new ones are 110W each):
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[This message has been edited by DonS (edited 03-31-2001). ]
 
I've installed the Hella 90601 work lights and wired them up with a relay that is triggered by the factory back up lights (spliced into the Violet/Black wire shown on page 8W-51-2 of the bible). Earlier in this thread, people talked about also using the dash cargo lamp switch with a second relay to turn the aux lights on while not in reverse. In my box at the rear of the truck, I have a second relay ready for this purpose. Problem: the cargo light circuit is a switched ground (8W-44-4), while the backup light circuit is a switched +12. My current wiring of the relays won't work. (I have both relays expecting a switched +12).

Has anybody actually implemented this? Did you have the second relay's coil wired to (fused!) +12, then activated by the cargo lamp's switched ground? It looks like you'd have to tie into the Pink/Dark Blue wire between the cargo lamp and the dash switch.

Thanks,
-Don


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2001(. 5) 2500 HO 6spd 4x4 QC LWB SLT+ Tow Pkg 3. 54 LSD, Shift-on-the-fly, Patriot Blue / Agate
 
Hi Don!

I did essentially the same thing you're talking about when I wired my driving lamps. I used the high beam switched ground to provide a ground to the relay coil. I'm using a fused key-on source to the other side of the coil. Should work.
 
Originally posted by ToolManTimTaylor1:
Depending how much Ca$h you want to shell out..... I went with Piaa's (kit was 175. 00)

ToolMan, which PIAA lights did you go with... the 1500XTs? If so, did you go with the clear driving version? I'm asking as PIAA no longer makes the 1500XT series in clear fog (and haven't for several years). If you are using the clear driving 1500XTs do they disperse enough peripheral light to be effective?

TIA
 
I just went to Tractor Supply and paid around $13. 00 ea. for 2 H-3 55 watt rear tractor work lights wired through a relay. They really light up the area. I also have a backup alarm wired through the relay. Now I worry less about my boys or their friends being behind me when I back up.

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'96' 3500, 5-speed, 3. 54 LSD, Ext. Cab, 180,000 plus miles, relay controlled back-up alarm and rear facing halogen tractor flood lights, K&N air filter, TST #11 plate . 010" forward of stock, AFC spring kit, lost cat, SPA digital EGT and boost gauge,20 yr. old marine air horns, bed liner, 5" monster exhaust tip, Geno's manual trans. filter, brite box.
 
Bob, since DonS hasn't answered your question yet I would guess the material in question is either nylon or Teflon. Both materials are roughly the same color however, nylon is slightly more yellow in color than Teflon which is "Nuclear" white. Nylon would make a real good mounting material for backup lights.

Don?
 
John These are the amber likgts 1500's Very <font color=#CCFF00>Bright</font> and drench the area you WANT lit very well (also great high beamer to the guy behind as well #ad
)
<hr>
<font color=#E02020><font size=3>Truck Bio:</font>
Y2K+1 <font color=#2F4F4F>3500 4X4 Quad Cab</font> L. S. D 4:10:1 Powerpacked (4 inch exhaust,High ram intake,wastgate mod to 38 psi,otto +guages,K&N) , Jakit's Front End Leveling Kit with 255/85R16 <A HREF="http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/" TARGET=_blank><font color=#2F4F4F>BFG</font></A> <A HREF="http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/catalog/radial_mud_terrain_ta.html" TARGET=_blank><font color=ff0000>M/T's</font></A> Custom Rhino Liner (see tool man's truck feature)DeeZee Goodies, Mopar Performance accessories-Sill plates-hitch cover-cargo aux lamp'n'Power, Hadley air systems 150 psi comp and air storage. Rubber side down & shiny side up can get a smile at the end of each day(hopefully)<A HREF="https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/001793.html" TARGET=_blank><font color=#E02020>See The Rig Here</A>
<A href="mailto:ToolManTimTaylor@aol.com"> #ad
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John, how do you attach the nylon to the bumper? I don't see any evidence of screws or such. BTW, I'm a software engineer. I don't deal with hardware much! Back in high school my buddy did the wrench work and I beat the lights. Used to run a 1964 Dodge Polaris 426 wedge.
 
ToolMan, you have the PIAA ion crystal 1500XT lights... do they have the driving pattern or the fog pattern? Do you have the specific part number? I was considering the ion crystal 1500XTs (fog) however, I was concerned about a reduction in peripheral light intensity due to the ion crystal bulb as compared to the "white" halogen bulbs. Any comments on this? I have deep tinted side glass so I need all the help I can get when backing up.

Bob, I don't know how he attached the nylon to the bumper... possibly just out of view? It could possibly be attached to the hitch somehow.
 
I went with Regular Hella driving lights. I dont remember the model number. But i mounted a relay next to the battery, then ran 10 Guage wire (In loom) to the rear directly to the lights. With all the salt up here in the Northeast, I have always had problems with mounting relays back by the rear bumper so i figured id eliminate it alltogether. Its perfectly safe beacuse the only time the 10GA wire is energized is when i turn the backup lights on. And having them switched with thier own switch is great for hooking up the trailers at night and also for eliminating annoying tailgating imports
 
Bob, unless I'm mistaken Don used the same bolt I did - it holds the chrome skin to the subframe. Just undo that bolt, and then use it to sandwich a simple bracket between the bumper subframe and the flanged nut that holds everything together. Works great. I have the very same lights as Don and needed to get them farther back so they would be more protected. So I made a bracket out of some 1 1/2" X 4" C-channel I had kicking around. It accomplishes the same offset as the bracket Don used , with the only wrinkle being that I cut the end of the bracket at a 45deg angle, so that the position of the lights is not only recessed under the bumper, but also moves the light out farther to the sides, which I thought looked a little better. BTW I really like the hella's, which are light years ahead of the POS navigator lights I had before. They actually look like they are designed to do this job and last awhile (imagine that). I have backed into several HARD snowbanks without doing damage. The demise of the navigator's was precipitated by their first such snowbank encounter.

Don, very nice work! Sometimes I wish I lived in CA so I could do neat stuff like your circuit box in back. Unfortunately it would just get ripped off during one of my all to frequent misadventures in the snow here (drifts are still 4"). I used one of those radio shack project boxes too, only just barely big enough to fit one relay. I will have to rewire with the cargo lamp, that's a great idea.

[This message has been edited by Arcticat (edited 04-06-2001). ]
 
The white stuff that DonS used is high-density polyethylene (inside information). Easy to saw, drill, tap, etc. —no rust either.

Articat—you're right about the bolt.

[This message has been edited by Thomas (edited 04-06-2001). ]
 
ArctiCat and Thomas, thanks for the info. It just stopped raining long enough to climb under the truck and find the bolts you were talking about. Now, off to get the backup lights (right after I pay the bill for guages, exhaust brake, fiver hitch, and running boards on Monday).
 
This post seems to be going towards a second set of lights, but I was curious, Has anyone gone with higher wattage bulbs in the factory housing? I saw this post on the Jeeps unlimited Site, http://forums. jeepsunlimited.com/ubb/Forum22/HTML/001297.html where 50 watt 1159 bulbs were substituted. Since The backups are used only intermittently, There probably is not a heat issue. Thanks for any help.

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01. 5 ETH/DEE QC, 2500 4X4, 3. 54 Everything but leather

[This message has been edited by Ranger Dick (edited 04-07-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by Ranger Dick (edited 04-07-2001). ]
 
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