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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Decision Time!!

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Questions

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Hey everybody, I have a 99' 24 valve with lots of mods, IE edge comp, turbo, 275's, 4" stainless exhaust, southbend double disc (yet to be installed) and gauges. Now My question I want a 12 valve auto, how much do you think I could get for my truck, and what should I look out for when looking for a 12 valve? Oh by the way my truck is also a quad cab with an 8ft bed with the in tank pump conversion kit. I just want reliability of an all mechanical fuel system as compaired to the electronic crap of my 24 valve, power at the push of a button is nice but I would wrather have long term reliability and my 24 valve is a constant money pit. What should be done to a 12 valve as far as fueling plates, govenor springs, ect..... oh and what company makes a good auto transmission that I could swap into a ram with a 12 valve?

Thanks, Travis
 
Hi I also replaced all the ball joints, the tie rod, drag link, track bar, the front hub bearings, all the fluids, the steering box, and all the brake lines.
 
Are you looking for a complete truck w/engine or just the engine to swap into your '99

Let me know,

Dave -- email address removed --
 
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Okay... I'll bite.

Firstly having owned the old and new and old again,I would suggest that unless you are mechanically inclined or have a huge pocket full of money stay where you are with a truck you know and a truck that is still a lot better than the ford or chevy.

If you enjoy wrenching then go ahead and get a 12V. As far as what to look out for... . unless the truck has been salvaged, it makes no difference as you will be changing out parts, (it will have high milage and be ready for lots of love), and making

it yours. I would try and get as close to a stock truck as I can. Many suggest buying from the older folk, but that theory does not really apply with these trucks as it is the older folks that pull their rv's etc. Boils down to how much you are prepared to spend and do.

Cheers Derek
 
keep what you got if the engine go out then put in a 12v

you have done a lot of work to that truck

and you know what you have

don't throw the dice

just swop out the 24v for a 12v if need be

don't start over be smart make it the truck you love and yes it can be
 
If you want to get rid of the electronic pump then scheid makes a p-pump conversion for the 24 valve trucks. I agree with the others in I would keep what I have and just modify it to make me happy.

MGarland
 
But theres more to it then just the engine, I want an auto versus the nv4500 I have and I would like something that came from down south because my truck came from upstate new york and it had cancer that I have tried to fix to no avail and I dont feel like getting a paint job on a truck that I'm mad at more often than I'm happy with it because every damn day something else goes wrong with the stupid thing!!! lol
 
From your first post I was under the impression that you were looking for opinions regarding what you should do, but after re-reading your post as well as this last one, I gather that you have already made up your mind. Look at my sig less ALL the upgrades and that truck went for $9500. They will fetch more and less. If you really want a good deal then I propose you look under the classifieds on this forum, as the members here will not and should not screw you.

Cheers Derek
 
Here's what you do

Go to autoextra.com and put in your truck and see what they are selling for in your area. You can also search for your 12 valver if you want. Ken Irwin
 
Cummins360 said:
Hey everybody, I have a 99' 24 valve with lots of mods, IE edge comp, turbo, 275's, 4" stainless exhaust, southbend double disc (yet to be installed) and gauges. Now My question I want a 12 valve auto, how much do you think I could get for my truck, and what should I look out for when looking for a 12 valve? Oh by the way my truck is also a quad cab with an 8ft bed with the in tank pump conversion kit. I just want reliability of an all mechanical fuel system as compaired to the electronic crap of my 24 valve, power at the push of a button is nice but I would wrather have long term reliability and my 24 valve is a constant money pit. What should be done to a 12 valve as far as fueling plates, govenor springs, ect..... oh and what company makes a good auto transmission that I could swap into a ram with a 12 valve?

Thanks, Travis



Your probably going to get a lot less for it then what you got in it or what it is worth to you. Bought my 12v 18 months ago and the retail price difference was 4 - 7K between the 97 and the 99s. I suspect it hasn't changed that much. I was looking particularly for a less expensive truck in the 10K range since I planned to put an aftermarket transmission in it. As far as what to look for, I'd suggest a 98 12v with the opening rear doors. Mechanically as you probably know look for a slipping transmission (shifting in and out of overdrive or delayed shifting into overdrive). Also look for excessive steering play/wander. Those seem to be the two biggest complaints. Most folks I've talked to seem to like #10 fuel plates and 370 injectors (lots of smoke and power), 3k gov springs, bigger air filter and a 4 in exhaust. One of the problems some people have complained about was a lot of the exhaust drone at about 2000 rpm when using the after market exhausts.



If you can find a used vehicle you might look for a summit wiring harness conversion, front tow hooks/aftermarket heavy bumper, 3rd gen trackbar mod, and a DSS (darins steering stablizer). The the wiring harness helps protect your headlight switch and the tow hook kit seems to cost about $200 if you have to add it later. The 3rd gen trackbar and DSS help reduce the steering wander.



Regarding trannys, there seems to be four main auto transmission sources that are well liked (DTT, Goerends, Suncoast, and ATS). I like my DTT but Goerends has had a lot of good comments.



Like you it seems like all I've done is pour money into my 12v but most were optional upgrades so it was kind of self inflected (not the transmission though). It does seem that anytime I take it in it cost about $1000 so I'm not sure you are going to get away from the cost.
 
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I dont' know what your truck is worth. I'm not up on the current prices of trucks.



Find a 12v you like. The mods are cheap and easy. Depending on where you want to go for power, will depend on what your going to HAVE to buy. A fuel plate is only $250, 370's are around $400(unless you catch them on sale) GSK is pretty cheap, and at that point your probably looking for a larger turbo. If you want flip of a switch power, install a Valet Switch. Mine went from 325hp to 180hp when I flipped the switch.



Like what was said above, Goerends, DTT, ATS, and Suncoast all make good units.



Josh
 
You can't just throw a value at a truck, especially when not inspecting it in person. I know it's not what you want to hear, but a truck is worth what some one will pay for it. Really, some people would not even give you wholesale price for your truck b/c any mods scare them away. Others might be looking for a truck to do the exact mods you have already done, so it may be woth more to them. As a general rule, I seem to see a lot of trucks sell some where in between Kelly Blue Book ( kbb.com ) trade in value and private party value. "Cream puffs" might bring full Private Party value, and every day trucks that could use a little body and/or mechanical work sell for closer to Trade-In value. I don't personally know any one who pays Retail Value for any truck. Check the completed listings on Ebay that will give you a good idea of what people are actually paying for trucks.
 
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