BigPapa
TDR MEMBER
When I put my defroster on the ac automatically comes on, along with fresh air (the recycle option won't work while defrosting).
That's the way I thought it worked, too.
When I put my defroster on the ac automatically comes on, along with fresh air (the recycle option won't work while defrosting).
Mmmm thangs gents. The radiator is full full expansion tank is full but I'll keep an eye closely peeled for a core leak.
I did run the compressor for a while but not extensively so I'll do that going forward and see if that helps.
Meanwhile I wired up some muffin fans to augment the blower on the dash
IIRC the AC will not run once the outside temperature reaches a value near freezing. He mentioned 20*F, snowy boots and heat. If the mode is in recirculation the scene is set for a moist time in the cab. Then there is the strong possibility of an elusive leak - somewhere. He'll find the solution to his issue with our collective suggestions.The AC compressor automatically runs when the HVAC selector is on defrost and floor+defrost. If you dont hear the compressor kick on when you turn the defrost on then you should find out why its not.
But again, if you smell antifreeze in the cab then there's a core leak.
IIRC the AC will not run once the outside temperature reaches a value near freezing. He mentioned 20*F, snowy boots and heat. If the mode is in recirculation the scene is set for a moist time in the cab. Then there is the strong possibility of an elusive leak - somewhere. He'll find the solution to his issue with our collective suggestions.
John, You hit that nail square on the head with the explanation. Thanks.Moist boots and wet clothes will add water vapor to the air inside the cab and when that water vapor condenses on cold glass the windows will begin to fog. Usually when this happens, the fogging will form on the glass farthest from the windshield and begin creeping forward because the air from a properly operating HVAC defroster will be flowing very dry air when the outside temperature is at 20 degrees (with or without the AC on) .
Let's just assume the worst conditions - that the outside 20 degree air has a dew point of 20 degrees which would saturate the air with the maximum quantity of water vapor it can hold and would have a relative humidity of 100%. This relative humidity will fall to well below 5% when that parcel of air is heated to 120 degrees, so that air will easily keep a windshield clear. Unless, of course, water vapor is being added before the air arrives at the defroster vents (such as water collected around the evaporator drain area, a leaking heater core, or a recirculating door that is not fully closed to ensure that only outside air is being drawn in).
- John
In the 2002 Service Manual, Page 24-21, A/C Low Pressure Switch - Operation: "... Lower ambient temperatures, below about -1* C (30* F), will also cause the (Low Pressure) switch contacts to open. This is due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant in the system."That's not something I have noticed, even sub zero, but I do think that battery temp is used for some of the logic and it will warm up with the engine bay.
In the 2002 Service Manual, Page 24-21, A/C Low Pressure Switch - Operation: "... Lower ambient temperatures, below about -1* C (30* F), will also cause the (Low Pressure) switch contacts to open. This is due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant in the system."
Similar event happens with the refrigerator out in my garage when the temps go below freezing. The ice cream goes from solid block to milk shake consistency, but still cold. The fudge bars flex right off the stick into a blob.
But this isn't a discussion on a 2002. The fan in the 3rd gen is ECM controlled with a viscous clutch, and can be used for the AC, where it's pure mechanical in a 2002.
The A/C pressure transducer signal to the PCM/ECM will also prevent the A/C compressor clutch from engaging when ambient temperatures are below about 10°C (50°F) due to the pressure/ temperature relationship of the refrigerant. The A/C pressure transducer input to the PCM/ECM will also prevent the A/C compressor clutch from engaging when ambient temperatures are below about 10°C (50°F) due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant.
AC works pretty much the same, regardless of the AC juice or other components which affect the efficiency. The fan is used to assist in heat transfer from the A/C juice to atmosphere thru the condenser, especially at low to no forward speeds. The compressor restores the A/C juice to liquid state so it can again do its magic and turn to gas, cooling and dehumidifying the interior via the evaporator...or something like that.But this isn't a discussion on a 2002. The fan in the 3rd gen is ECM controlled with a viscous clutch, and can be used for the AC, where it's pure mechanical in a 2002.
You say it starts at the windshield? Does that mean you go out to a cold truck and everything is clear on the glass all around inside the truck? Then when you start the truck the fogging begins at the windshield? Leads to heater box as suspect. HVAC setting to recirculate or stuck in recirculate mode? Check your floorboards, especially at the low spots around the entry sills. Pull the sill trim and poke your fingers around the low spots there. Windshield seal leak? Have you checked your third brake light for leaks? The rear slider window for that series of Mega Cab has a habit of leaking and dripping to the low spots and migrating forward to the front via the door sill depressions. Put a strip of paper towel in the window slides and see if they get sopping wet when it rains. Do you have clearance lights on the cab?wow, lots to digest, thanks guys. Yes I have a lot of stuff behind the back seat, in fact the back seat is down for the dog in his kennel but alot of stuff in there regardless so I guess I will clear it out and make sure the discharge vents are clear and functional. Thanks Bruce, I wouldnt ever have gotten to that as a contributor.
The windshield fogs first and then the fogging moves aft from there for whatever thats worth.
Im not sure how to rule out the heater core leak, coolant level remains constant in both the radiator and the coolant expansion tank, I guess I will take it in for a pressure test and make sure it holds pressure. That makes the most sense I guess
The windshield fogs first and then the fogging moves aft from there for whatever thats worth.
I think you can get access to inspect the recirculation door fairly easily by removing the blower motor.
AllData has this on the ‘06. I think they get it from the FSM.