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Del and Tune Suggestions for 2014

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Clanking sound when going over bumps

Stalling at complete stop

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Hello
Just got a 2014 3500 6.7l (not running at moment) but read that the deletes will lower EGT's and increase mpg's and possibly engine life (Mines has 136k). Can the stock exhaust parts be reinstalled if necessary (bolt on)?

I understand the EGR delete but what does the throttle valve delete accomplish?

Which tunes/tuner are recommended for the 2014? How much extra hp can the engine stand before risking HG (or other) failure?
 
This is my recommendations to another poster who asked about deleting his truck! I know yours is a 2014 but this has the same emission set-up as the newer trucks (with a few tweaks maybe). Also this can be done but the cost benefits in my opinion is not worth the expense of deleting this series of truck. In my humble opinion to do a full delete and obtained the benefits + have a reliable truck you will be investing close to $3,000 to achieve a this.

Are you looking at buying the 2017 that you have listed in our signature? If so, I would not disable or touch your emission on that series of engines. Why? In 2013 Cummins and Ram introduced the redesigned 6.7L engine using the SCR technology, instead of the EGR and DPF technology that they had been using. Although the engine still has an EGR system and a DPF on the engine it is in no way similar to the old style of use. There is less exhaust gas recirculation taking place than on a 2007.5 and up to a 2012 engine. With the SCR being used the fuel mileage will improve over an older 6.7L equipped truck and the engine oil life has improved do to less contaminates from the EGR system compared to the older trucks. If you want more information on this new emission hardware read the Issue 80 from TDR May/June/July 2013, page 58, also see page 63 the sidebar
 
Leave it STOCK!!! *The previous owner was a RV hauler so the emissions system was not taxed like a grocery getter. *If I am not correct please someone correct me.
 
I will try lol! What are the mpg's that can be expected from this stock (empty)? If it isn't used as dedicated tow vehicle I like the performance increase from tune/exhaust/deletes. I guess I have been spoiled by a previous modded truck but I could keep it stock if necessary. Maybe I should drive it first?
Leave it STOCK!!! *The previous owner was a RV hauler so the emissions system was not taxed like a grocery getter. *If I am not correct please someone correct me.
 
How much power increase will the 68RFE trans take?

Any increase will add more wear and tear,there is no magic number.At the 100hp level it will be damaged.Deletes=no warranty.Delete away FCA can enjoy less warranty expense from at least 1 truck
 
I talked to a sponsor who said the EFI Live is 995, the Monitor and unlock cable 469-499 (Edge vs Bully Dog), the EGR delete is 115 and the Exhaust 250-350 depending on short pipe to whole exhaust. He claimed on his 2012 he went from 12-19mpg highway but you did say the 2014 use SCR so I don't expect his results will apply.
He said the street tune is 75hp and the race is 120hp plus there is tow and mpg tune. I don't know much about EFI Tunes but my IDP custom tune for my powerstroke made it a complete better truck so that's why I am looking here. I never abused the truck and rarely went full throttle but the extra power enhanced the around town driveability and I enjoyed the fuel savings at the pump too. I plan to drive the truck stock first then after gather more info make a decision just collecting info up front to help guide my route.
This is my recommendations to another poster who asked about deleting his truck! I know yours is a 2014 but this has the same emission set-up as the newer trucks (with a few tweaks maybe). Also this can be done but the cost benefits in my opinion is not worth the expense of deleting this series of truck. In my humble opinion to do a full delete and obtained the benefits + have a reliable truck you will be investing close to $3,000 to achieve a this.

Are you looking at buying the 2017 that you have listed in our signature? If so, I would not disable or touch your emission on that series of engines. Why? In 2013 Cummins and Ram introduced the redesigned 6.7L engine using the SCR technology, instead of the EGR and DPF technology that they had been using. Although the engine still has an EGR system and a DPF on the engine it is in no way similar to the old style of use. There is less exhaust gas recirculation taking place than on a 2007.5 and up to a 2012 engine. With the SCR being used the fuel mileage will improve over an older 6.7L equipped truck and the engine oil life has improved do to less contaminates from the EGR system compared to the older trucks. If you want more information on this new emission hardware read the Issue 80 from TDR May/June/July 2013, page 58, also see page 63 the sidebar
 
So HD trans rebuild goes hand in hand with tunes?
Any increase will add more wear and tear,there is no magic number.At the 100hp level it will be damaged.Deletes=no warranty.Delete away FCA can enjoy less warranty expense from at least 1 truck
 
All the major trans builders have upgrade packages,none of them have been bullet proof.Before jumping on one I would talk to as many of them as possible and have your bs meter turned on.
 
I talked to a sponsor who said the EFI Live is 995, the Monitor and unlock cable 469-499 (Edge vs Bully Dog), the EGR delete is 115 and the Exhaust 250-350 depending on short pipe to whole exhaust. He claimed on his 2012 he went from 12-19mpg highway but you did say the 2014 use SCR so I don't expect his results will apply.
He said the street tune is 75hp and the race is 120hp plus there is tow and mpg tune. I don't know much about EFI Tunes but my IDP custom tune for my powerstroke made it a complete better truck so that's why I am looking here. I never abused the truck and rarely went full throttle but the extra power enhanced the around town driveability and I enjoyed the fuel savings at the pump too. I plan to drive the truck stock first then after gather more info make a decision just collecting info up front to help guide my route.

You have to consider the SCR system also+ ARP head studs and a new head gasket.

I also sent you a PM.
 
Question . It seems to me the "grocery getters" seem to have the most problems . So if i'm buying used what should the ratio be between miles and hours so I know i'm not buying a grocery getter?
 
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