Attention: TDR Forum Junkies This weekend I did a gauge install on my ’05 Dodge. In case someone who hasn’t done it yet wants a detailed narrative on how I did it I humbly submit the following.
I decided on the Westach combo gauge and SRT-10 A-Pillar from Geno’s. I started inside removing the A-Pillar. Using a small screwdriver I pried the bolt covers free. Pry the top one from the bottom of the cover and the bottom one from the top of its cover. The covers are attached. I used small blunt pliers to force the tabs loose and then installed them on the new A-Pillar.
The keeper for the gauge doesn’t work on the A-Pillar. I used two wraps of ¾ inch electrical tape behind the gauge face and it press fit nicely. The benefit is that the bulb can be replaced by nudging the gauge from the mount instead of removing the A-Pillar.
Before mounting I attached the boost hose, wire and bulb to the gauge. I then gently pried off the dash panel surrounding the light switch. I attached 18 gauge red and black wires to the bulb long enough to reach the switch. I attached them using posi-loc connectors from Walmart.
I then removed the dash cover at the left end of the dash. The one that is covered by the driver’s door when it is closed. That panel allows access to pull the wire from the A-Pillar and feed it under the dash. I then installed the A-Pillar and routed the wire and boost tube under the dash.
I used a blue posi-tap to attach the red wire from the gauge bulb to the orange with brown stripe wire at the light switch. That gave me use of the truck’s dimmer switch. I put a round terminal on the bulb’s ground lead and attached it inside the dash end panel to a bolt that goes into a metal frame. I then closed up the two left end dash panels.
I gently removed the dash center panel after removing the screw above the trash bag hook. The cigarette lighter and climate controls come out with that panel. I routed the power wires, supplied with the kit, under the dash to the rear of the cigarette lighter slot in the dash. I put a welding rod through the hole in the dash, taped the power wire to it, and pulled the wire through the dash. I used another blue posi-tap to attach the power lead to the pink wire attached to the cigarette lighter. That gave me “switch on” power for the gauges.
I couldn’t find a good local spot to attach the ground. I left the supplied power/ground wire at the cigarette lighter compartment. It is a nice cable and didn’t want to cut it up. I used a posi-loc to add a length of black wire that I routed back through the dash from the cigarette lighter to where the boost tube was left hanging below the A-Pillar. I then routed that ground wire, boost tube and the power lead for the EGT probe, through the firewall.
In my ’05 6 speed, there is a rubber grommet in the firewall directly behind the clutch pedal, that is 4 inches left and below the steering column. With the tip of my pocketknife I cut a small slice in the upper right hand corer of the grommet for the boost tube and EGT wires. I pushed an ice pick through the upper left corner of the grommet and forced the ground wire added at the cigarette lighter through the firewall.
I attached that ground wire, using a small self-tapping screw, next to a factory ground tap close to the driver’s side battery. I then zip tied all the wiring under the dash and re-installed the center dash panel.
I then installed the barbed fitting into the brass boost bolt. I removed the most forward intake manifold bolt. That one is between the intake inlet and the radiator and right against the valve cover. I used that bolt because it was the easiest to get to. I didn’t have a thin walled 10 MM socket, so I couldn’t get the boost bolt to mount because the injector lines were too close. I used Permatex Hi-temp anti-seize on the boost bolt and locked it in with an inch/pound torque wrench at 144 in/lbs. 12 foot lbs. = 144 in/lbs.
I had a small aluminum square, ¾” thick to practice drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold. The spot on the exhaust manifold I picked was in line with the 3rd cylinder exhaust port about I inch behind the aluminum shield. I center punched that spot. That spot gave me clear access for my battery powered drill with about an index finger clearance from the truck cab where the hood rests. That spot also allowed me to use a t-handle on the tap which allows me to feet the tap cut better than a wrench would.
I used a 1/8” drill bit for a pilot hole. Then the 11/32 bit to finish the hole. The 11/32 was recommended on the tap package. I got the tap from Ace hardware for $4. 50. Used a small horseshoe shaped magnet on the manifold to pick up the stray drill chips. I didn’t like grease on the drill so I used Vaseline, which stayed on the drill bit better and clearly showed the chips as the rode up the drill flutes. The drill went easily down the pre-drilled 1/8 hole. I drilled slowly, ensuring that the drill was vertical, and cleaned it often with a shop towel. I used a telescoping magnet to clear the chips from inside the manifold. Napa Auto Parts-cheap.
Tapping the hole went well using the t-handle. I could feel the cut and could tell when to quit and clean the tap. After cleaning the tap and re-inserting in the manifold, I ran the tap down to where the last cut finished, and turned the t-handle ½ to ¾ turn to cut deeper. Then pulled and cleaned the tap again. There is a great tendency to muscle the tap just a little deeper. DON’T DO IT! I learned the hard way on another job just how brittle taps are. Tapping just goes slowly. Run the tap down to where 5 or 6 cutting teeth are showing above the surface of the manifold. Thread the plug in finger tight and tighten with an open end wrench to where 2 or 3 plug thread are left showing. The plug will be tight enough and the bottom will be about flush with the inside wall of the manifold. Don’t run the tap through the manifold wall. It bolt will stay loose. Use the magnet to clear chips inside the manifold.
Before installing the plug, I inserted the Pyro probe into the plug so that a little over ½ inch protruded through. Then I marked the probe at the top of the compression fitting with a red sharpie pen. After putting hi-temp anti-seize on the plug and gently tightening it into the manifold, I inserted the probe to the red mark and lightly tightened up the compression fitting. I spread the job out over 2 days because of rain. The gauge is very responsive.
Thanks to all the TDR members whose posts I borrowed from to do the job.
I decided on the Westach combo gauge and SRT-10 A-Pillar from Geno’s. I started inside removing the A-Pillar. Using a small screwdriver I pried the bolt covers free. Pry the top one from the bottom of the cover and the bottom one from the top of its cover. The covers are attached. I used small blunt pliers to force the tabs loose and then installed them on the new A-Pillar.
The keeper for the gauge doesn’t work on the A-Pillar. I used two wraps of ¾ inch electrical tape behind the gauge face and it press fit nicely. The benefit is that the bulb can be replaced by nudging the gauge from the mount instead of removing the A-Pillar.
Before mounting I attached the boost hose, wire and bulb to the gauge. I then gently pried off the dash panel surrounding the light switch. I attached 18 gauge red and black wires to the bulb long enough to reach the switch. I attached them using posi-loc connectors from Walmart.
I then removed the dash cover at the left end of the dash. The one that is covered by the driver’s door when it is closed. That panel allows access to pull the wire from the A-Pillar and feed it under the dash. I then installed the A-Pillar and routed the wire and boost tube under the dash.
I used a blue posi-tap to attach the red wire from the gauge bulb to the orange with brown stripe wire at the light switch. That gave me use of the truck’s dimmer switch. I put a round terminal on the bulb’s ground lead and attached it inside the dash end panel to a bolt that goes into a metal frame. I then closed up the two left end dash panels.
I gently removed the dash center panel after removing the screw above the trash bag hook. The cigarette lighter and climate controls come out with that panel. I routed the power wires, supplied with the kit, under the dash to the rear of the cigarette lighter slot in the dash. I put a welding rod through the hole in the dash, taped the power wire to it, and pulled the wire through the dash. I used another blue posi-tap to attach the power lead to the pink wire attached to the cigarette lighter. That gave me “switch on” power for the gauges.
I couldn’t find a good local spot to attach the ground. I left the supplied power/ground wire at the cigarette lighter compartment. It is a nice cable and didn’t want to cut it up. I used a posi-loc to add a length of black wire that I routed back through the dash from the cigarette lighter to where the boost tube was left hanging below the A-Pillar. I then routed that ground wire, boost tube and the power lead for the EGT probe, through the firewall.
In my ’05 6 speed, there is a rubber grommet in the firewall directly behind the clutch pedal, that is 4 inches left and below the steering column. With the tip of my pocketknife I cut a small slice in the upper right hand corer of the grommet for the boost tube and EGT wires. I pushed an ice pick through the upper left corner of the grommet and forced the ground wire added at the cigarette lighter through the firewall.
I attached that ground wire, using a small self-tapping screw, next to a factory ground tap close to the driver’s side battery. I then zip tied all the wiring under the dash and re-installed the center dash panel.
I then installed the barbed fitting into the brass boost bolt. I removed the most forward intake manifold bolt. That one is between the intake inlet and the radiator and right against the valve cover. I used that bolt because it was the easiest to get to. I didn’t have a thin walled 10 MM socket, so I couldn’t get the boost bolt to mount because the injector lines were too close. I used Permatex Hi-temp anti-seize on the boost bolt and locked it in with an inch/pound torque wrench at 144 in/lbs. 12 foot lbs. = 144 in/lbs.
I had a small aluminum square, ¾” thick to practice drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold. The spot on the exhaust manifold I picked was in line with the 3rd cylinder exhaust port about I inch behind the aluminum shield. I center punched that spot. That spot gave me clear access for my battery powered drill with about an index finger clearance from the truck cab where the hood rests. That spot also allowed me to use a t-handle on the tap which allows me to feet the tap cut better than a wrench would.
I used a 1/8” drill bit for a pilot hole. Then the 11/32 bit to finish the hole. The 11/32 was recommended on the tap package. I got the tap from Ace hardware for $4. 50. Used a small horseshoe shaped magnet on the manifold to pick up the stray drill chips. I didn’t like grease on the drill so I used Vaseline, which stayed on the drill bit better and clearly showed the chips as the rode up the drill flutes. The drill went easily down the pre-drilled 1/8 hole. I drilled slowly, ensuring that the drill was vertical, and cleaned it often with a shop towel. I used a telescoping magnet to clear the chips from inside the manifold. Napa Auto Parts-cheap.
Tapping the hole went well using the t-handle. I could feel the cut and could tell when to quit and clean the tap. After cleaning the tap and re-inserting in the manifold, I ran the tap down to where the last cut finished, and turned the t-handle ½ to ¾ turn to cut deeper. Then pulled and cleaned the tap again. There is a great tendency to muscle the tap just a little deeper. DON’T DO IT! I learned the hard way on another job just how brittle taps are. Tapping just goes slowly. Run the tap down to where 5 or 6 cutting teeth are showing above the surface of the manifold. Thread the plug in finger tight and tighten with an open end wrench to where 2 or 3 plug thread are left showing. The plug will be tight enough and the bottom will be about flush with the inside wall of the manifold. Don’t run the tap through the manifold wall. It bolt will stay loose. Use the magnet to clear chips inside the manifold.
Before installing the plug, I inserted the Pyro probe into the plug so that a little over ½ inch protruded through. Then I marked the probe at the top of the compression fitting with a red sharpie pen. After putting hi-temp anti-seize on the plug and gently tightening it into the manifold, I inserted the probe to the red mark and lightly tightened up the compression fitting. I spread the job out over 2 days because of rain. The gauge is very responsive.
Thanks to all the TDR members whose posts I borrowed from to do the job.
