detriot locker's or limited slip

[PAYCHECK]

what is better locker's or limited slip. why?would you have dodge or a someone else do the work?

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01 SLT+ 4X4,Q-CAB,SWB,3. 54,5spd,e-brake,tow package,camper special,all black,all leather,fully loaded,htd power mirrors,htd seats,full rhino lining bed and rocker panels,265/85r16 BFG ATs,nerf bars,everthing black,still stock engine.

 

[Dane]

Paycheck,
#1
Lockers have a on road quirk of engaging in the middle of tight turns and making the vehical jump side ways a little. They work great off road though. The DC limited slip works great except from a dead stop in very slippery conditions. This is usually when you need it the most. This can be overcome with the parking brake. I like the LS since 99% of my driving is on road. Mine has been working great in the wet conditions lately.

#2
I would rather have my fingernails pulled out one at a time while I watch than let DC goons work on my truck. Take it to a shop that does diffs all day long and know the procedures.

just my opinion...

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

[Dave Fritz]

Paycheck.

Ask yourself how you really plan to use the truck.

If you plan to stay on roads, the LS diff is much better behaved and will provide adequate traction for most conditions. If you occasionally venture off road where the terrain is not difficult, the LS diff is still the best option.

If you plan to spend considerable time off road in difficult terrain, the locker will provide power to both wheels under extreme conditions where a LS diff is marginal at best. When a locker is working, both wheels will turn, even if one has zero traction or is in the air (a LSD must have SOME traction on BOTH wheels for it to work).

NOTE: All mechanical lockers will bang, chirp, click, and pop on pavement. Occasionally, you will get a bang that sounds and feels like an axle shaft or u-joint broke. Any difference in rear tire pressure will cause torque steer with a locker. Driving on ice can be treacherous with a locker because when it locks, the truck will usually try to swap ends without warning. This is considered normal!

A third alternative is the air locker. It runs as an open diff until needed, and then sends power to both wheels when it is locked. The chief disadvantage of the air locker is cost.

Someone who really knows what he or she is doing should install any alternative diff. Proper setup is almost black magic, and requires a "feel" for backlash, preload, and gear engagement pattern. It can't be close - it has to be exact. If your dealership has a tech that moonlights for race teams, let him do it. Otherwise ask around; find the person in your area who changes gears for racers.

FWIW: I have a lockright in the rear and an air locker in the front of my 94 (the Detroit was not available until recently). My 85 F250 and Sue's 01 ETH both have LS diff's. The locker will always win the traction war, but the LS is much more friendly on pavement.

Dave

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1994 2500HD 4X4 modified for off-road camping
2001 2500 ETH/DEE QC SB 4X4
Fritz's Dodge Ram Tech Page

 

[PAYCHECK]

Thank you guy's! i think a LS is best for my needs. i can use my polaris atv for any really rough terrain. just out of curiosity how much is a air locker? now to find someone to put one in! thanx again.

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01 SLT+ 4X4,Q-CAB,SWB,3. 54,5spd,e-brake,tow package,camper special,all black,all leather,fully loaded,htd power mirrors,htd seats,full rhino lining bed and rocker panels,265/85r16 BFG ATs,nerf bars,everthing black,still stock engine.

 

[Expat]

Prices for the ARB vary considerably, and you can save a lot by buying it mail order. My shop sold mine to me for around 900 for the front locker and compressor. Labor is in the ten hour neighborhood. New front axles run around $300. I'm sure I could get them cheaper, but these guys seem honest, even if they are pricey, and they are standing behind their work, including their mistakes. If you install both front and rear ARBs, you only need the one compressor. It's an expensive option, but I think it's the right choice for me.

As I posted earlier, I'm leaving the LSD in the rear and installing the ARB up front. I figure rear only is fine in light, short wheelbase vehicles like my CJs, but I'm guessing a single ARB will be much more effective up front than in the rear. I'll post the results when done.

 

[KWIKKURT]

I agree that the OEM lsd is probably what you need...

Two weeks ago I was looking into lockers as my LSD is SHOT!!!. . you can jack one rear wheel and easily spin it with your hand.

Dealer is giving me the runaround about it must not have enough friction modifer in it... Shows you how deep his axle/Diff knowledge is. .

I went into a Driveline shop. . and found out that there is 5 to 7 choices now for different locker set ups and not all of them are clanky, jerky and give you the bad side effects . Your choices are much better than just a few years ago. . You should go to a good Driveline shop and match up your driving habits, conditions, Axle style and size and of course you piggy bank size.

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"Have you driven OVER a phord lately"
2001 2500 BRT WHT SPORT QUADCAB 4X4 ETH 3. 54LSD TRLR CMPR PKG ALL OPT XCPT LTHR

 

[PAYCHECK]

good advice! thanx kwikkurt!

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01 SLT+ 4X4,Q-CAB,SWB,3. 54,5spd,e-brake,tow package,camper special,all black,all leather,fully loaded,htd power mirrors,htd seats,full rhino lining bed and rocker panels,265/85r16 BFG ATs,nerf bars,everthing black,still stock engine.

 

[Neal Cassady]

Anyone know if there are locking hubs available for the hub ends on the rear axle. I have seen a few Jeeps with rear Detroit lockers that run Warn hubs on the real axle. I think the were running D44 or D60 semi-floaters. They use these hubs for flat towing and drivability.

Dave D

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2001. 5 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and transmission Temp in an Autometer Dash Pod, Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless

 

[BRobertson]

Powertrax will be making a No-slip for our Dana 80 in approx. 2 months

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2001 QC4x4 eth dee slt+ 3. 54 blk agate leather Warn transformer mount Hella 4000s, Hella 530 backups, Optima redtops Toro liner, jacobs ebrake, wired front and rear for Warn 9000 winch, backup lights inset into rear bumper,bumper powder coated silver vein, bedliner on 6" of rocker,custom aluminum console with Garmin Colormap GPS and EGT built in,Horton fan,MagHytec diff cover

 

[hammersley]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum20/HTML/000047.html

Check out this thread - I'm going to put in a POWERTRAX - at POWERETRAX. COM. Download their PDF file - it's the best technical one I've seen. Check out the CJ that they put one in as well - this appears to be a great unit! Offers the best of all worlds. They just don't make it for the Dana 80!