2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission diagnosing steering pull

[TRoss]

OK, I need some help diagnosing the problem causing my truck to pull to the right. I just put new tires on it and had it aligned. The passenger front tire was significantly more worn out than the others, and it pulled to the right, but I figured that both were because it was out of alignment. So, I got it aligned, new tires on it, but it still pulls to the right. I tried it on the interstate to see if it would still pull even on the other side of the road, so I could rule out the crown, it still pulls. I took it back to the tire people, they're telling me its a brake pull and they want $1200 to replace:



2 calipers

2 rotors

2 brake hoses



They said my brake pads look fairly new, and I have owned the truck for 1 year (~10,000 miles), so they are at least that old. It seems to me that if my brakes were dragging, my pads should be in far worse condition, perhaps not. I'm looking for some thoughts on what might cause this sort of steering pull. For the record, its not any worse if I'm braking, and its about the same at all speeds. Also, I have a little more play in the steering wheel than I would like.



The truth is, I think they're telling me its a brake problem just because they have no idea what else it might be, but at least brakes are something they can get paid to fix, and if that doesn't fix it, they'll probably have a new idea . . .



I would appreciate any and all experience and thoughts on this issue, thanks in advance!



TRoss

 

[Joe Mc]

The truth is, I think they're telling me its a brake problem just because they have no idea what else it might be, but at least brakes are something they can get paid to fix, and if that doesn't fix it, they'll probably have a new idea . . .



You are probably dead on with this statement. I would take your truck to a real alignment shop (specializing in frame alignment) as they will probably install offset upper ball joint bushings to correct the pull. However, even though your front brakes are in good condition, I would pull the calipers and remove any burrs on the slide surface of the caliper and slide surface where they mount on the steering knuckle. The surfaces don't have to be mirror smooth, just flat, then get some disk break pin lube and give both caliper and knuckle a thin coat of the lube. NAPA had a product, I think it's made by Valvoline, called Sli-glide. Also, pull the caliper pins, if they are rusty to the point they can't be wire wheeld smooth get new ones. Clean all old grease from the pin holes and lube the holes real good. Then reinstall. Also, since you have rear drum breaks, check the drag and adjust so both sides are even. I've had pull problems with mine due to one side being tighter than the other.



My hunch is you need a "real" alignment shop to put that front end in spec (at least) and not $1200 worth of brake work.



You could replace the brake hoses just because it's old - you could have a "flap" inside not allowing a caliper to return to normal after releasing the brakes - the flap (a piece of disloged rubber from inside the hose) can act like a check valve only allowing fluid pressure to go into the caliper piston and not allowing it to return once the pedal is released. Been there done that. But, you describe the pull is constant. . . .



What the heck were they going to do for $1200 anyway? I could convert the rear drums to disk, install slotted/drilled rotors front and rear for less than that.



Good Luck.

 

[TRoss]

What the heck were they going to do for $1200 anyway? I could convert the rear drums to disk, install slotted/drilled rotors front and rear for less than that.

Good Luck.

you read my mind on that one. That quote was for the parts listed (700+), labor (350+) and tax (100). No matter what, if I all of that was going to get done, I'd likely do it myself. I appreciate your thoughts on the matter. Yes, the pull is constant, doesn't get better or worse when I brake, which seems significant to me. Once again, I appreciate any and all brainstorming and experience on this one.

 

[IanF]

I have a similar problem with my '95. It pulls to the right. When I mentioned this to my mechanic (also a CDT owner, but they don't do alignments), he said his truck did the same thing until he finally took it to a really good alignment shop who, while not cheap at around $300, were able to correct the pull.



I decided to try a local Goodyear anyway (much more convienent)... they gave me a whole list of things that needed to be fixed... caliper, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc... I said, "hmm... " and said I'd have to think about it... GOt hte truck home, and checked their diagnosis... ball joints and tie rods are tight... RF wheel bearing feels loose...



Secondly, I talked to another shop and he said if the truck is pulling an alignment won't fix it - you've got other problems...



Unfortunately, I ran out of money and therefore haven't investigated much further.

 

[KPfeiffer]

My 99 Ram2500 diesel was drifting to the left and pulling on braking. I had a caliper that was sticking and I pulled the wheels on both sides cleaned the calipers and greased the slides. All is OK with that now. The drifting problem I solved with a new track bar from Thuren and got rid of the sloppy steering with a 3 1/4 turn steering box from power steering services (PSS).

 

[Joe Mc]

I have a similar problem with my '95. It pulls to the right. When I mentioned this to my mechanic (also a CDT owner, but they don't do alignments), he said his truck did the same thing until he finally took it to a really good alignment shop who, while not cheap at around $300, were able to correct the pull.



I decided to try a local Goodyear anyway (much more convienent)... they gave me a whole list of things that needed to be fixed... caliper, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc... I said, "hmm... " and said I'd have to think about it... GOt hte truck home, and checked their diagnosis... ball joints and tie rods are tight... RF wheel bearing feels loose...

.

The top part of the quote is probably what you'll have to do. If you go with the bottom part then you'll end up in the same boat.



Check the calipers, rear brakes, for less than $100 you could change out the front hoses and then if it's still doing the tug-o-war. get it to a "real" alignment shop (not the local part changer $$$ out of your pocket cause they don't really know). I'm betting it's in the alignment. How are your control arm bushings????

 

[THUREN]

Check the wheelbase... .



Measure from the front frame control arm bolt, to the rear axle tube. Both sides SAME SPOT on the axle.



You be amazed how many trucks I've seen with the rear axle shoved a bit forward on the passenger side. .



You can check the front axle this way too, and doing this check tells you a lot. I have NO idea why issues like this are not caught on expensive alignment machines.



For a quick fix rotate the passenger side caster cam so the lobe goes forward about 1/16th to 1/8th turn. .