2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Did I miss some?

[Gary - K7GLD]

Grease fittings, that is!



Just did a "grease job" on my truck - if you can call greasing 2 fittings a "grease job"... I knew from reading here and some initial looking around under the truck there weren't many - but expected more than *2*...



All I could find were the 2 on the drag links in the steering - NONE anywhere in the tie-rod ends or upper/lower balljoints - none in the driveline/universals or slip-tube at the center driveshaft support... Is that ALL there are?



I haven't heard anyone complaining about premature mechanical failures in the steering/suspension - do the greaseless joints REALLY work well in trucks like these over the long haul?

 

[JWhitcomb]

I can find only 3 on my 2001.

 

[TomGolden]

Well, the 2001's only have 3, so maybe you have found them all... ... cheap darn penny pinching morons..... rather sacrifice item longevity for a nickel.



Oh well... .



But then again, if the factory made everything worthwhile, they're wouldn't be a market for after market goodies...

 

[raiste]

What?! I could only find 1 on mine.



Where are the others?

 

[EMDDIESEL]

On my 01' i found one on each upper ball joint and one on the steering linkage.

 

[A. Brown]

just 3 on the y2k, I know, it looks like there should be about ten

 

[Whitmore]

you can fix it

I drilled and tapped and installed zerts every where on my rig, its not bad to do at all, gotta take off both front wheels to do it and also rotate the stearing from right and left but it was a 2 hr job and well worth it ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... Kevin

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Good job Kevin!



Wonder how ya did that without lots of metal shavings down in the joint? Also, seems like there wouldn't be enough depth available to get a tap in there - did you use a bottm tap for the job instead of a conventional job?



On mine, the 2 fittings I did find were both in the steering at the drag links, one clearly visible pointing down, the other pointing up and harder to see...



But I gotta seriously consider what Kevin did - sounds like a VERY worthwhile project!:--)

 

[MikeR]

Yes, I'm curious too on how you can drill and tap for zerk fittings without pushing the metal shavings into the joint cavity. If you push the shavings in, then what was the point in doing it because the shavings will destroy the joint.



-Mike

 

[Goddard]

have posted this before. check into closer before you do this!



the guy that aligned my truck, in business for a long time, showed me the diferance between greasable and non-greasable joints. the non-greasable ones do not have any passage inside them for grease to travel, and get no help by drilling them. i do not know if ALL are built the same but you could be wasting your time.

 

[rweis]

In my 2002 service manual the 4x4 seems to have 3 fittings, the 2x4 I THINK has 2, but SM does NOT specifically say.



I found the same 2 as Gary on my 2x4.

 

[illflem]

If you drill into the thin metal opposite the stud no metal will get in the joint, you will hit plastic that will push out the shavings. Drill all the way though the plastic. No need to tap, use self tapping zerks, common auto parts item. Grease must pass somehow, it comes out the stud end when applied. If I remember right you will have 6 or 7 zerks when you're done.

 

[Whitmore]

Once again, Bill is exactly right

 

[Chipstien]

I know what I will be doing this week. Problem is I think some of my BJ's are bad already.

 

[RichB59]

Basketball needle

is what I used. Just sharpen a basketball inflater and puncture grease boots inject grease and smear a little silicone on the hole. The hole preety much seals itself. I only did this once my thought is the grease can't really go anywhere and will offer a little extra protection in addition to what the factory put in the joints.





Lol RichB



Meryy Christmas everybody!!!!!!

 

[Matt42]

Originally posted by illflem

If you drill into the thin metal opposite the stud no metal will get in the joint, you will hit plastic that will push out the shavings. Drill all the way though the plastic. No need to tap, use self tapping zerks, common auto parts item. Grease must pass somehow, it comes out the stud end when applied. If I remember right you will have 6 or 7 zerks when you're done.

This seems to be my week for dumb questions, but not all on this forum.



1. Where does one look for self-tapping zerks and what do they look like? Coarser thread? Fluted end threads?



2. Can something like that be done for the U joints, or is it best to just wait until they have to be replaced? (Could be worse--the DC could use a Detroit slip yoke. )



As some Vancouverites that I know might say, "Tidings of the season to y'all. "

 

[illflem]

Self tapping zerks are labeled self tapping. They just have more of a taper than regular zerks. Our u-joints have a solid cross in the center with no grease galley to carry the lube to the four bearings. Otherwise you probably could tap a zerk in.

Some folks claim that non-greaseable solid u-joint crosses are the only way to go for added strength.



That can open up an entire debate on it's own. From what I've seen more u-joints fail from no lube on the bearings than they do from breaking.

 

[Rockcrusher]

Manufactureres theory is that more BJ fail from over greasing than no greasing. (Blow out seals and dirt enters)

Most all new vehicles have no zirks. Of course like already said, few cents on every truck adds up to big $ for the manufacture.

 

[Matt42]

Originally posted by illflem

-snip-

Some folks claim that non-greaseable solid u-joint crosses are the only way to go for added strength.



That can open up an entire debate on it's own. From what I've seen more u-joints fail from no lube on the bearings than they do from breaking.

My brother, a former SCCA C Sports racer, makes that very claim. On the other hand, he is used to using components at their exact rating, with no factor of overload built in. That saves weight. It also works if you have the bucks to rebuild the engine after fourt races, and the transmission after eight. I chose to buy large and add grease, when possible.

 

[daveshoe]

4x4 hub bearings

This discussion leads me to another topic-- adding grease zerks to the area between the hub bearings.

I saw a 98 4x4 that the front end literally came apart because of [salt?] corrosion getting into the bearings. The owner noticed no grinding or steering problems-- just a squeel about ten seconds before the wheel laid down sideways on the road. Very scary and about three thousand in damages as it took out both sides of the steering fittings,brake calipers for a complete front end meltdown.

How about it? Anyone have pro or con whether adding a zerk would be possible?