Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Did I void my warranty?

[c-hawk]

I need to go visit the dealer this week to have the high idle feature activated, but I'm a little worried. I've done two stupid things that may bite me in the rear.



First, I didn't look before I leaped, on one occasion. I thought the idea of more boost sounded good, so I put a turnbuckle on an otherwise stock truck. It defueled the first time I floored it. I wasn't sure what was happening, so I floored it again to see if I could figure out what was going on. I ended up taking it off about 30 minutes after I put it on. I found out later that you need some type of a boost fooler. It never set off the check engine light or any other lights that I noticed. Still, I'm sure there is something in the computer from that one.



Second, I got my comp box, and wanted to hook up everything but the pump wire. When I installed it, I didn't get a good ground. When I hooked the power back up and turned on the truck, the check engine light came on. The LED on the comp was off, so I knew something was wrong. I figured out my problem, but the light stayed on for a while after, and then finally went out. I'm sure there is probably something in there from that one too.



So what do you all think? Are they even worth worrying about? Are these sure signs of bombing to the dealer? If they are, can I have them cleared out at another shop, or are they permanent?



Thanks,

Chris



P. S. Try not to be too jealous of my high intelligence.

 

[Motorhead]

First try turning on and off the ign three times quickly and leaving it on the third time. The odometer will flash some straight bars and then show any codes that might of been set. If it says ecm-done and pcm-done, then no codes are present. If it shows some numeric codes, dis-connect the batteries for a few hours,re-copnnect them and try the key cycle again. Chris



P. S. Welcome to TDR... LOTS of good info here!!

 

[c-hawk]

Thanks

I really appreciate the speedy reply. I just tried what you suggested. It appears that I've managed to set two codes. The first one that showed up was P0460, the second was P1693.



Any ideas what these stand for?



I guess I'll try unhooking the power from them and letting it sit for a while. Hopefully that will get rid of them.



Any other ideas or suggestions?



Chris

 

[Rob Thomas]

Go here to check codes, a nice site to have in your "favorites".



Later, Rob

 

[DSteinel]

I just tried this and all that comes up is P-done does this mean everything is ok or that the ecm is not functioning correctly. The truck has a JVD torque inhancer with the A. D. D. (anti de-fueler) and is a 2000.

 

[Bob Wagner]

Pdone = No codes

 

[JCyrbok]

learn something new everyday

Never knew about the "key" trick to check codes. This is cool. Always good info on TDR.



J-

 

[PSL53]

Code read

I have a 98. 5, I tried doing that three times and nothing. Will it work with a 98. 5 or do I have to go out and buy a new truck, I was counting on putting on 300,000 miles before that. I just got my first hundred(what warranty?? let the real bombing begin!!!!), two more to go!!!!

Out

Peter

 

[JCyrbok]

worked for me

PSL does your truck have a digitial odometer or the regular one with the numbers. I would assume that it would have to have a digitial one. I just learned about this trick an hour ago and ran out to the truck and tried it and it worked on the first try ( odd for me). No codes set. kinda cool.



J-

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

No, it doesn't work on '98. 5's. It only works on '99 and newer. We have half breed trucks that are really a '98 12 valve truck with a 24 valve engine in it.

 

[Groover]

99 trucks do not show codes on odometer panel. I don't think they added that feature until 2000. Mine was built 5/99 and doesn't do it. I thought I was just stupid and couldn't figure out how to turn the key on and off in the right sequence - then somebody told me 99's don't do that.



FYI

 

[VicR]

Thanks Groover - I was trying to figure out why I couldn't do this simple test! Guess its the excuse I needed to buy Quick Check II. .



-Vic

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

The best way to clear the codes before going to the dealer is:



1) remove airbox

2) Pull the three plugs behind it on firewall. This will clear all codes right away.

3) re install airbox after plugging in plugs.....



This is a sure fire way to clear all codes in the ECM and PCM

 

[illflem]

On the non-digital odometers you turn the key off/on three times then count the number of times the check engine light flashes on and off. Be ready with a piece of paper and pencil, if you miss one number you will have to start over, each fault code is a two digit number, each digit separated by a short pause, each group of two is separated by a longer pause. You will always get a 55, which means end of test. Any fault codes set, including two digit can be entered in this site for translation http://www.obdii.com/codes.asp

 

[PCrable]

If you have an AutoZone near you, they'll readyany computer fault codes for you for free. They have a scan tool and I imagine they could probably clear any codes too.



--Phil

 

[c-hawk]

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the help.



I'll try what Greg B. suggested, since I don't have an autozone nearby.



Later,

Chris

 

[Mopar-muscle]

of course you realize that you had best remove the box and it wiring , or hide it good before you go in to the dealer for anywork ??

 

[RKohn]

Chris,



Your warranty is always worth as much as the paper it's printed on... . slightly more if you've got a good dealer.

 

[c-hawk]

mopar-muscle,



Yeah, I will definitely remove the box and turnbuckle before I go to the dealer. I do appreciate the reminder.



Chris

 

[Mopar-muscle]

if you tuck and tie the wiring right they may not even notice it , don't forget to unplug the map sensor connector , that will set a code if you pull the brain ...



remember the dealer will look for any excuse to deny a warranty claim ...