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Did some maintence 2013 3500 Thought I would share

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Transmission Temp Question

Egr

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Thought I would share this.....Of course the hubs Were try, I know someone will argue that its not necessary...each side took 50 Pumps, (good guess) just keep spinning the Hub until you see grease on the back Seal, Yes it will burb some grease after driving.No biggy.The bores the hubs fit into are redesigned, they will pop right out, not like the ***** in the 3gen AAM axles, easy replacement.

I purchase a long 10MM ratchet Extra thin wrench to remove the 4 10MM bolts hidden above the transmission cross-member to remove the pan and replace the trans filter, Guess what, not long enough to reach the 2 inner bolts ,Will get it next time Truck only has 17,800. O I did jack the transmission up about 1" after loosening the 3 cross-member Nuts, I didn't dare raise it any higher:mad:
The fumoto valve # F124N M10-1.25, the Aisin Pan drain is 10M-1.5 ,its tight just be careful and it works, I did cut the spout off about 1/4" its hidden pretty good.

The Auxiliary fuel filter looks new, it has 17K I changed it anyways, ( this filter is used to filter the fuel when filling form the transfer tank) I will also change the Zinga filter on the transfer Tank AE-3AZL, been using Zinga Filters for 10 Years I have Never replace any CR injectors in the entire fleet of Trucks TWR and TC Diesel own and some are over 250K by 2nd owners. I will change the both the engine mounted filter and the Frame mounted at 30K, I will cut them open and inspect, they were replace Dec 13, after the heater turn on:eek:

This truck does have and elaborate Auxiliary bypass fuel system Post #128 & 129. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/238687-4Th-Gen-impressions/page4 - Page 4

The oil filter No comment, Picture says it all.

I took samples of both fluids, I will post the results form Blackstone.

Ram hub.jpg


Ram hub 2.jpg


Ram 13 Aux filter.jpg


Ram 13 Zinga filter.jpg


Ram oil filter.jpg
 
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One concern I have regarding adding greaase to the hubs, or the denter of the double cardan joint of the front driveshaft, is that we don't know what base the stock grease has, sodium, lithium, etc. and not all greases are compatible. Have you researched this issue?
 
Regarding what appears to be galvanized piping on your auxiliary fuel tank - standard diesel practice is to NEVER use galvanized pipe or fittings in diesel fuel systems. A reference to this practice by Cummins is contained on page 120 (Diesel Fuel Piping) of the linked Cummins power generation application manual.

Rusty

Those Pipes have been removed and Re-installed on 1997,2000,2001,2003,2013 they were in good shape and clean in 2013 Good old USA Pipe material , you're right that Mexican or China raw material will rust up and corrode.
 
Diesel engine manufacturers' standards don't differentiate between the various sources or countries of manufacture of galvanized pipe. The problem is the zinc in the galvanized coating. This prohibition against the use of galvanized pipe and fittings has been part of the application standards of every diesel engine manufacturer that I'm aware of for many decades.

Rusty
 
One concern I have regarding adding greaase to the hubs, or the denter of the double cardan joint of the front driveshaft, is that we don't know what base the stock grease has, sodium, lithium, etc. and not all greases are compatible. Have you researched this issue?

Yep, generally after 15K there dry (Dry enough).... My 1997 has 280K on the replace hubs the OEMs went only 18K and were replace under warranty Same hubs at 298K. he grease them every 50/60K, My 2003 only went 54K and needed replacement. I have yet to run into un-compatible grease this is after 35 years of construction ownership , and decades Fleet ownership.
 
Diesel engine manufacturers' standards don't differentiate between the various sources or countries of manufacture of galvanized pipe. The problem is the zinc in the galvanized coating. This prohibition against the use of galvanized pipe and fittings has been part of the application standards of every diesel engine manufacturer that I'm aware of for many decades.

Rusty

Yep... and if I had standalone unit I would use steel , hose, iron.

By the way I had steel piping on my 2005 and it leak at -0 temps. certainly if there was a problem with the material it would have shown it ugly head in 17 Years.
 
Have you ever seen What Biodiesel does to certain steel pipes, I will see if I can find a picture, it was of a steel telescopic draw straw, it look like a 100 year old oak bark log it was so rusted ,It was unbelievable, unless you seen it.
 
Research ,Hmmmmmm after 1000s of vehicle that come thru My store's Door...WTF ...the 1 and I mean 1 thing all these failure (hubs) have in common is.... they are all dry joints. enough research for Ya....the Net forums are NO longer valid info its all contaminated by the keystroke Kings..
 
Yep, generally after 15K there dry (Dry enough).... My 1997 has 280K on the replace hubs the OEMs went only 18K and were replace under warranty Same hubs at 298K. he grease them every 50/60K, My 2003 only went 54K and needed replacement. I have yet to run into un-compatible grease this is after 35 years of construction ownership , and decades Fleet ownership.

Are you greasing the hubs through by removing the ABS sensor? I haven't had a wheel off the 2013 to look yet (11K) Presumably the 2500 would be the same?
When I greased the cardian joint I pumped so much grease through it that no original grease would be left, If there ever was any.
I also greased as much of the front end as I could by using a grease needle.

On my 99 2wd I had drilled the ball joints for grease fittings and have never replaced a front end part in over 500k.
 
Are you greasing the hubs through by removing the ABS sensor? I haven't had a wheel off the 2013 to look yet (11K) Presumably the 2500 would be the same?
When I greased the cardian joint I pumped so much grease through it that no original grease would be left, If there ever was any.
I also greased as much of the front end as I could by using a grease needle.

On my 99 2wd I had drilled the ball joints for grease fittings and have never replaced a front end part in over 500k.

Yes thru the ABS sensor.
 
No, it will not, the grease would just cling to the yoke/shaft and fall off , the rotors are protected by dust covers , its not possible.
 
Its 1/4"flex tubing (Clear) and 1 straight grease zerk, I heat gun the end of the tubing then put the Zerk in and Quickly Zip tied. Sometimes the zerk falls out ,then I just repeat the process (cut off about 1/2") because the tubing gets hard. Really take your time getting the sensor out so you don't break it off, just work it .....with WD-40 or whatever lub you have.
 
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