2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission dielectric-ing connections

[Ncostello]

I've got the dielectric grease for my vital connections, as others here have suggested me to do to try to eliminate an idle miss.



Can anyone provide me with a list of the major connections that need checked and greased? Included in this, does the VP have actual removable connections on it that need greased. I'll have to take off the throttle control unit to even see the pump. Just want to make sure before I move it over to the side.



Also, do I just put a moderate amount all over the connectors, including the contact points. Or do I try and keep it off the connection contacts and just put it around where it seals. Thanks.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

HMMmmm old age and senility keep creeping up on me, but isn't DIelectric material used as an electrical INSULATOR, that is, to BLOCK or RESIST electrical contact?



Sorta like the DIelectric material in a capacitor is intended to STOP or resist electrical flow between elements... And like DIelectrical paste used in transistor applications is primarily intended to provide a good heat-sink flow, while maintaing electrical isolation...



Not really what we would want to PROMOTE and IMPROVE electrical flow and contact...



I think what we are really looking for here is something to resist oxidation of metalic surfaces, while IMPROVING electrical contact - NOT resisting it...

 

[illflem]

When I've watched the guys from the power company using it they used Oxy-Guard on the actual connection with the di-electric grease on the outside after the connection was made. Figured they knew what they were doing.

If you use Oxy-Guard on plug type connectors don't use to much or it will ooze out and short the connection. The stuff conducts electricity.

 

[Thomas]

Here is how Detroit Diesel uses dielectric grease. Apply enough to cover the contacts and to form a seal to keep moisture away from the contacts.



Use it on trailer connections for sure.

 

[Ncostello]

I'm not to fond of the idea either as anything dielectric does not conduct. But some say it works. I am just real hesitant to put it directly on the contacts. If I have a dirty connector, it needs cleaned with contact cleaner or something first. Seems like it would work on new plugs good on first application if kept off the contacts and only used to seal out moisture etc. I dont want to mistakenly assume manufacturers slop it all over everything.



My feeling is that if you have a bad connection due to corrosion, this will not do much for it. Probably the disconnecting-reconnecting action cleans the terminal enough to make decent contact. Maybe this will help keep further corrosion from occuring. I am going to use it very sparingly.

 

[RPyle]

The grease will help prevent fretting corrosion. Fretting occurs when a connector is exposed to vibration and thermal expansion and contraction causing bits of contact metal (usually gold, silver, etc. ) to be worn off exposing the substrate metal which oxidizes. Oxidation on a connector will cause a higher resistance across the connector (ie: intermittent or open connection). Basically your lubricating your connector. It's a good thing. The grease will also help seal out moisture which will also help prevent corrosion. The proper grease will not prevent the connector from making electrical contact. The connector should be clean to start. Hope this helps.

R

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I too use "Oxy-guard" - easily and cheaply available at our local Ace Hardware in a handy small tube. It's primary purpose is to elimnate oxidation and electrolosis on dissimilar metals, like when copper and aluminum wires are joined - but it also seems to function well as a conductive material that eliminares surface corrosion - I even use it successfully on the contacts in my trailers thermostat that was driving me nuts with erratic and intermittant operation...



My normal plan of attack is to carefully clean the affected contact surfaces, and then apply a THIN film of the anti-oxidant - that has always done the trick so far...



I just wanted to point out the difference between available solutions for electrical problems - not much use substituting one problem for another by use of the wrong stuff...

 

[ISBPilot]

cost effective solution

Me and my Dad have rewired all three of my trailers over the past six months. They are a 16' bumper pull utility (couple of years old), a 1992 model gooseneck 24' stock trailer, and a 1977 model 24' gooseneck flatbed. The grease used was a tube of regular vehicle grease, one tube was cheap black stuff and the other was a better grade of red grease. We dipped the wire in it and filled connector before the wire was crimped. Then we filled all connectors before they were plugged together. My Dad has used this on his big trucks for years and seems to work well.



Todd

 

[Devildog]

Try this stuff....

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=35864&highlight=conductive+grease

 

[Reb.B]

oh man, some people! read the tube. THIS product does not conduct electricity! Look at your connections now. There is grease all over the connections inside. Oxygen is awefull to electrical connections. Get that tube and put it all inside. This hould be done at least once a year depending on the climate that u live in. Its the best stuff there is for connections. I've had problems with connections the grease took care of it. To each there own.

 

[Ncostello]

Didn't work...

I used dielectric clear grease. The tube said it was for automotive connections and recommended by Ford and GM.



I cleaned, inspected and put it on in decent amounts, but I didn't put on gobs. Most of them had clean grease in them and looked good. I drove it around, it got up to operating temperature and bingo, idle miss again. But at least I tried.



I did the three computer connections behind the airbox, the VP-44 connection (7 pin), and the 2 large connector couplings just off to the passenger side of the master cylinder on the firewall.



Any I missed that are important besides these.



PS, the VP had some grease that looked kinda purple-blue on its connection.



The others were clear grease.



The 3 behind the air box (ECM?) didn't have anything on them when I unpluged them.



I disconnected the batteries before starting this job.

 

[Reb.B]

need to do all the connections. The ecm is on the side of the motor. The pcm is behind the air box. do the crank sencor and thot pos sencor as well. ecm is important to do. need an allen wrench to do it

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Nconstello, I did exactly as you and re-greased all my connections in an attempt to smooth my idle. Results were: No Improvement



Did you get the APPS connector, IAT & boost sensor? I did all mine but the crank position sensor which I could not get disconnected.

 

[Ncostello]

I bought a new Crank Sensor. Did the IAT sensor and checked it ohm wise also.



Dont know what the APPS and boost sensor are.



I'll try all these but my gut feeling is that the truck was driven with a bad lift pump for some time, thus damaging the VP-44. Schied told me I had three bad injectors according to the scan tool they used. I replaced all six, no change. SO something is going on in fuel delivery. And I suspect the fuel injector pump. But I dont know if they go bad over time or just up and quit altogether.

 

[Rambling]

I was thinking..

... (and that's always dangerous) that when the connectors are mated, the 'lube' is displaced at any point of contact between the pins/sockets. This displacment is why you can use a dielectric lube. Using dielectric lube prevents possible shorts from any spill over/mess that might occur. The 'lube' will only occupy an area where the pin/socket are not in metal-to-metal/frictional contact This keeps the air out and minimizes any oxidation of the mating surfaces.



Just a thought

 

[Dave MacArthur]

OK I have a question. If the di-electric grease is non-conductive, won't it increase the resistance between the contacts that you coat with it? To the point of not allowing current to pass? Or does it allow current to pass through the close contacts but not enough to short with the other pins etc? See what I mean?



Thanks



Dave.

 

[Blakers]

Well I think it gets squeezed out of an intimate metal to metal connection, thus not inhibiting current flow.



Certainly no electric expert...



Blake

 

[Devildog]

I use the GC electronics conductive grease series II 19-820, it's also an anti-oxidant. If you dab a little on the connector pins and assemble you'll have a good connection, If you want then you could spread the die-electric grease on the outside of the connectors to insulate against grounding if the connector is against the frame or other metal parts when wet.

 

[Thomas]

Any increased resistance due to the miniscule film of dielectric grease between closely fitting contacts is much preferred to the increased resistance of oxidized contacts. How many of you have experienced problems at the electrical connection between truck and trailer, particularly with a trailer that is not used on a regular basis? Anyone installing the Edge EZ on a Ram will find that the data link connector comes from D/C liberally coated with dielectric grease.

 

[kaptn]

I am an Industrial electrician and we use a silver paste on electrical connections(very expensive) and Di-electric grease to prevent corrosion. . There are different products for different applications depending what your shooting for.