2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission dielectric-ing connections

[Wiredawg]

I use di-electric grease

Fellow Rammers:



I use di-electric grease on all my connections that will or could be exposed to moisture. I ensure there is good solid contact on the mating surfaces of the conductors. I squeeze a dab of grease into the connector and when they mate up, they rub togother creating a good connection. The di-electric grease provides complete corrosion protection around the metal surfaces.



Knock on wood, I haven't had a single electrical problem due to corrosion, shorts or grounds.



Wiredawg

 

[Steve Campbell]

I think Ratlin got it right...

... "the 'lube' is displaced at any point of contact between the pins/sockets. This displacment is why you can use a dielectric lube. Using dielectric lube prevents possible shorts from any spill over/mess that might occur. The 'lube' will only occupy an area where the pin/socket are not in metal-to-metal/frictional contact This keeps the air out and minimizes any oxidation of the mating surfaces. "



If we were to use a conductive grease... . then it would be like plugging all of the wires together. A non-conductive grease keeps electrical impulses from getting confused where they are suppose to go in one of those multi-pronged connectors while keeping the water and oxidation out.

 

[emjay]

Steve and Rattlin -- you're correct. The idea is to keep moisture (including humidity) away from the contacts. It does not act as an insulator. Typically white lithium grease or silicone dielectric grease is used. They are used as a preventive, not corrective measure. You're not going to fix corroded contacts by greasing them. It may help for a while, but the problem will come back. NCostello -- did you check the two idle validation switches in the APPS? I can't recall your original post, but if the problem is temperature sensitive, you might check your coolant and intake air temp senders. The ECM probably adjusts fueling based on those temperatures.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Take it to Cummins

NCostello, in about 2 weeks I am going to persue my idle problem. I talked to Piers about it and he suggested I just take it to Cummins and have them diagnose it. Then go from there.



I called Cummins NW in Pendleton OR and talked to them. They said they should be able to diagnose it in under an hour. Then, they will write up their findings and recommended corrective action if it's not something easy or cheap they can take care of right there. Then they said to take that to the dealer and have them do the work under warranty. I guess they have done this successfully with a couple of people who were unsuccesful initially with the dealer. When the dealer sees that Cummins says this is a problem and it needs this to be fixed, the dealer should fix it right. They would be idiots if they refused to follow Cummins' recommendations. The worst part is you'll only be out $70 or so troubleshooting fee.



I'll keep you posted. I would do this sooner but the soonest I can make ride arrangements is more than a week from now.



Vaughn

 

[Ncostello]

Vaughn,



Sounds like a good idea. I need to do that also. I drove 6 hours on the interstate today and it did fine except at idle. At times it was really, really missing. Im betting only 4 cyls were running at times. At speed though it was OK. I can't keep this up.



I put dielectric on all connections underhood except for the lights. They all looked good but I did them anyway. Didn't help at all but I'm sure it was worth it. It was free too.



I've come to the conclusion that its either the VP-44 or air is getting in the high pressure side of the injection lines... somewhere. I've thought alot about it... alot... and that is my feeling. I think I'm right. Only time will tell. Thanks.

 

[Uncle Joe]

At work I got this wonder spoo called Niojell (1/4 ounce tube-$25)

This stuff works wonders, apply to all electronics connections and watch any computer misbehavior disappear.