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Diesel Pusher Motorhome for Full-Time

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Asking price on my 2008 Arctic Fox 5th Wheel

Dually Rims for a Ford e350

I am planning and preparing for going full-time when I retire in the next four to eight years. My objective is to embark on this endeavor with an adequate rig with no debt; i.e., obtained and paid for prior to retirement. I understand that ongoing maintenance and repairs are part of the retirement budget.

My DW has expressed a preference for a motorhome and towed vehicle. My current thinking is to purchase a used motorhome, trying to find the optimal value mix of coach price and refurbishment cost. A new motorhome is out of the budget.

I have reviewed numerous threads identifying likely coaches, so I think I am informed regarding brand names.

My questions really deal with which aspects I should seek out. I have resolved the gas/diesel question and seek a diesel pusher. I seek something between 34 feet and 40 feet. I have gleaned the following from previous threads:

Engine: Obviously, I am partial to Cummins, but it appears from a review of ads that Cat and Cummins are highly prevalent and both appear to perform well over time. So, I'll look for Cummins. I see all kinds of short-hand references in ads: ISC, ISL, 325 HP, 350 HP, etc. I know that the 6.7L in my sig truck is an ISB (from reading threads). How do I find out what the other designations mean? Just Google? Better way?

Transmission: They all seem to be Allison. I assume more gears are better.

Chassis: It seems to me that Freightliner is to be preferred due to the ready availability of parts and repair network.

Brakes: I have read that hydraulic brakes are to be avoided in a motorhome; air brakes are far more desirable.

Suspension: I gather airbags are the way to go. Also, examine sway control carefully.

Roof: Some prefer fiberglass roof; I think rubber OK, especially if the new approaches such as RV Armor prove to be effective.

Model years: This is quite a conundrum for me. In one respect I think I should focus on models years from the early 1990s through 1998 in order to obtain an engine which is completely mechanical. The assumption here is that it is simpler to maintain and less to break. Engine and transmission control electronics become more prevalent with each new model year. I also wonder whether I should stop at model year 2005 or so in order to avoid most of the complicated emissions systems.

Power: Is there a good GCWR to HP rule of thumb (or GVWR to HP) which is useful for deciding whether a coach is adequately powered? I want to tow around a 5,000 lb GVWR vehicle.

Does anyone have other recommendations?

Thanks!
 
I have a visual, but didn't know what to call it- in post 3, either one, I guess it's a class C motorhome. Those are Freightliners, and not sure if you can have Cummins power (Mike Wilson, jump in!) but that's the way to go!

Find one with Peterbilt or Kenworth chassis, and IMHO would be awesome.

Main advantage is that if (and will) you have chassis work that needs to be done, the support can be found anywhere. And I bet it'll be a safer, better handling unit.
 
Just be aware that the fancy Class A only Motor Coach Resorts won't admit even the most expensive "Super C". That wouldn't bother me, but it's something to keep in mind....

Rusty
 
I have a visual, but didn't know what to call it- in post 3, either one, I guess it's a class C motorhome. Those are Freightliners, and not sure if you can have Cummins power (Mike Wilson, jump in!) but that's the way to go!

Find one with Peterbilt or Kenworth chassis, and IMHO would be awesome.

Main advantage is that if (and will) you have chassis work that needs to be done, the support can be found anywhere. And I bet it'll be a safer, better handling unit.

Yes, the M2 trucks have had the Cummins power option ever since the MBE 900 couldn't survive the round of EPA regs several years back. Eventually DTNA will offer their own DD7 when it's ready so they can reclaim the 7 liter market with a proprietary engine.

To me the Super C is a lot better concept, you have a real live medium duty chassis with normal components that any dealership tech can work on.

The Peterbilt and Kenworth medium dutys are using Cummins for the most part, painted black but still a Cummins. The issue to me with the Paccar trucks is the small cab. The Freightliner M2 cab is much wider and roomier.
 
Yes mike you're right the Freight is roomier, but ya gotta admit the PACCAR is an awesome cab. It just oozes TRUCK.
 
A search of retarded shows that most super C are on Kodiak chassis with Duramax. That Dynamax is way up there in terms of my price range.

I'll keep looking.
 
The Super C is an option, but not many out there in the pre emissions era. It started, it seems, as sort of a race car thing.

For a 40' DP, 400hp should work if it has a single rear axle, 500 hp if it has a tag axle. Just loosely, a single rear axle should be around 38,000lbs and a tag could go over 50,000lbs. Mid to late 90's should get you what you want. The better brands will be fiberglass bodies and likely a fiberglass roof, and fiberglass can have issues with prolonged sun exposure. The metal body ones are going to be bus based, such as Bluebird and Prevost, and you may run across MCI and others. Saw a late 90's Pevost towing a Chevy with a slide-in camper the other day, so towing is not an issue.

Some of the systems on the DP class can get real complicated real quick, like air operated toilets and steps and pocket doors. You need to look at a lot of high end ones and a bunch of middle market to see the differences.

Don't focus too much on the chassis. On a 20 year old coach it is not a major issue.

One thing to keep in mind, the purchase price is the least of your worries. Tires every 7 years at around $5,000, batteries every 5 to 7 can cost that or more depending on the coach, oil and filter changes and lubrication, and fuel mileage around 7mpg +/-. If you can find a good and knowledgeable broker and look at what they have and why they have it and what they avoid it may be helpful. Take a look at Panterra http://panterracoach.com/ or simlilar.
 
Russell 5000, A little thing to consider when purchasing a Class A diesel pusher motor home is. Between you and the pavement there is no more than 1/4" and 1/2" of fiberglass and or sheet metal plus the big picture window. My wife always wanted a Class A when we first got back into traveling with a trailer. I took her to and RV show and showed her how much protection she would had in an accident. The salesman was not really happy with me that day because he was showing another customer the same motor home when I was explaining the amount of metal in front of you for protection.

Now if I did have the $300,000 + to buy a super C it would be the Dynamax motorhome such as the Dyna Quest XL or the DX3. As you have a truck chassis and engine in front of you.

Just my $0.02
 
Here's some food for thought, just walked by this one in the shop.

Simple fan hub replacement, not. Al least the radiator will come out through the rear opening, some will not if you can believe it.

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IMG_20160811_131319586_HDR.jpg


IMG_20160811_131327061_HDR.jpg


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IMG_20160811_131350680_HDR.jpg


IMG_20160811_131355409_HDR.jpg
 
Another option for a Super C is for you to supply your own tractor (new or used) to a company like Show Hauler who will custom-build the RV "box" on it.

Regarding Mike's photos above, I was always told that if I were to buy a Class A, get one with the side cooling pack for any number of reasons - fouling, access to engine, etc.

Rusty
 
Jim W.,

Excellent point and one I had given no consideration to. I will be investigating that issue and reviewing with DW in detail.

MWilson also raises a point - one picture worth a thousand words.


The DW has expressed preference for the motorhome, but I think we need to revisit that issue with a detailed pro/con listing of motorhome versus truck/trailer.



I gots me some more larnin' to do! :)
 
Another option for a Super C is for you to supply your own tractor (new or used) to a company like Show Hauler who will custom-build the RV "box" on it.

Regarding Mike's photos above, I was always told that if I were to buy a Class A, get one with the side cooling pack for any number of reasons - fouling, access to engine, etc.

Rusty

The side cooling pack does allow for better access but some of the fan drive systems leave a lot to be desired. I'm all for the belt drive with the directional converter box as the big coaches use but have seen nothing but trouble with the PTO driven hydraulic fans.
 
Now your talking, a Freightliner Cascadia Class 8 chassis.......Wow!!

Now being all serious and stuff that's really too much truck. But you would be hard pressed to overload it.......:-laf
 
A lot of the people with these Super Cs will pull a color-matched "stacker" enclosed trailer with a couple of cars, motorcycles, golf carts, you name it. That's where the Class 8 comes into play.

Rusty
 
A lot of the people with these Super Cs will pull a color-matched "stacker" enclosed trailer with a couple of cars, motorcycles, golf carts, you name it. That's where the Class 8 comes into play.

Rusty

Gotcha'.....

Now that I ponder it for a minute I do recall seeing that the last time I drove from Vegas to Phoenix, met all kinds of Nascar stuff coming the other way. There were see through trailers, Smart Cars and golf carts hanging off the back of some rigs and I now recall seeing a few of the stacker type trailers.
 
Mr RUSSELL5000

We recently came to the same decision as yours. I don't know if you've ever had any behind the wheel experience in a Motor home? There is a difference between a MH and a Truck pulling a comparable size fifth wheel trailer. We really enjoyed the MH vs the 3rd Gen Dodge with a 29' TT that we used to travel with. You may be different in your driving plans but I DON'T LIKE TO STOP. The MH makes that possible when the wife wants to make a pit stop to take a squirt or when she got up to get a sandwich or cup of coffee, no we didn't make a habit of being up walking around while moving but when out of the city and on the open road it SURE WAS NICE.

Having drove Commercial trucks for 30+ years I didn't fined that the 38' Newmar Dutch Star was objectionable in the least, this pulling a 27' enclosed trailer with vehicle inside. Ours is now a 400 HP with Allison THATS SWEET!! being a Truck Driver sure I could use MORE HP but really it didn't seem to be bad driving 60/65 and take the time to talk to the wife about things we wanted to see. After leaving the West and getting into the Midwest and South our days from point of interest to point of interest were not all that far, MANY times it was only a few hours, then stop pull out the Tacoma and go sightseeing, you suggested a dingy vehicle. Our choice was an enclosed trailer for storing travel needs for the MH and camp plus we collect lots of toys to take home with us that I didn't want rolling around in the basement of the MH.

As always take things with a grain of salt on TDR this is sure to start a Wildfire. For those that are for the Freightliner chassis, after talking to and seeing what has taken place in MANY of the MH's that are built on them. I wouldn't own a MH with a Freightliner frame. Sure you can find parts all over the USA and really if you think about it what parts on any other frame are so off the wall that they cant be found even at the Freightliner dealer?

That being said our Newmar is an 04 built on a Spartan Frame. Spartan Frames are common to Fire trucks and other heavy duty equipment, EVER BEEN TO A PLACE THAT DIDN'T HAVE A FIRE TRUCK? The BIGGEST difference is in the construction of the frame mostly the frame rails and cross members. The frame is much more ridged and will allow the option of Tile floors and the best thing about the Spartan frame is less flex. In our travels we met with lots of folks in MH those with the Freightliner frames were far more susceptible to flex of the body of the MH causing actual structural damage. Also Spartan Frames are built to the MH manufactures specs. I cant say that about Freightliner but the Spartan Frames looked like the things that needed to be checked or tended to like Fuel filters and the such were actually given thought to their placement. IE I was changing fuel filters in hopes to find a minor problem that I was experiencing. Another RV'er came by and said that his MH (that was built on a Freightliner Frame) was not ever close to being as convenient as ours, could it be the MH Maker? quite possibly but the ease of owner maint things looked as if someone was thinking

I don't know if the Freight liner will option air ride independent front suspension, I can imagine that they do, that is something else that I wouldn't be without especially the front disc brakes, air brakes are not even an option they are A MUST IMO.
Mike is correct with regards to working on the MH's IMO ANY MOTOR HOME IS A REAL PITA to work on, and if you really take a look at the class C MH built with Pete or KW or Freightliner cabs lift the hood and see how much easier they are? NOT VERY!! if its new enough what are you going to do anyway without the computer that needs to be used to diagnose the problems. When we were on our trip I replace a couple of parts that were really no big deal. At home before we left for the trip I changed the air cleaner & housing and replaced the restrictive exhaust again that wasn't bad. Some of the other things I'D JUST A SOON LEAVE THEM TO SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WHAT'S GOING ON. IMO the day of the owner doing most of the work on his Truck OR MH is over anyway the manufactures have taken that option away so they can bend a person over the fuel tank and drive it home.

The pictures on this Post made me sick WHO WOULD DO SUCH AN UGLY THING? they have wash rack all over the country and it didn't take but a handful of quarters and a little time to wash down the MH just before pulling into the Campgrounds. I'm kind of weird about not looking like a Redneck Bum even though I quite possibly am.

Happy Trails

BIG & Penny
 
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