Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Differential Fluid

  • Thread starter Thread starter DPellegrin
  • Start Date Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 3 1/4 trun box

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Kore suspension.... on order !!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

DPellegrin

Guest
Hey guys my dad has an 01 he is going to be changing the fluid in his differentials and would like to use a synthetic type fluid. He tells me he is not intetrested in Amsoil products. Any suggestions?
 
I agree with your dad, based on my experience.



Fluids that have worked really well for me are Mobil 1 and Royal Purple MaxGear. RP MaxGear has GL-5 ratings for EP while being GL-4 compliant. I run the MaxGear in my NV-4500 and BMW motorcycle and the diff's if I think far enough ahead to order it.



Mobil 1 is available in most NAPA's and auto parts stores.



Good luck and happy oil changing!



http://rpmoil.com/
 
Last edited:
Check out Neo Oil

I have neo synthetic oils in both differentials. I have temperature monitoring on my rear diff. and I base line all my temperatures once per year on the 4th of July weekend climbing the vantage grade from the Columbia river; at least 7% grade if not more for 5 to 7 miles. Anyway with the neo oil my differential temperatures have droped 25 degrees from the OEM fluids. Plus I have a magnetic dip stick on my maghytec cover and I do not see any more black dust on the dip stick since I changed to neo oils. Not cheap like $35 per gallon though. Just type Neo Oil under google the site will come up.
 
The black dust is wear particles from the clutch packs in the limited slip diff. Since you have no black dust, how do you rate your limited slip performance?



For example, driving off the road, with one wheel on the pavement and one in loose earth or wet grass, then apply generous fuel. Does the wheel on the pavement grab and launch you or just the one in the loose earth just spin?
 
I know what you mean TD

No one really knows what is best I agree. Seems like someone should come up with a side by side test and end all of this. But I know a bunch of race car enthusists in Seattle area and they really like neo oil. My temperature and magnetic are all I can go by and it definitely works better than the OEM that is all I can say. I am thinking about trying some of the differential oil in my gear vendor and see if it will shift smoother... to each his own,,
 
I have not tested the LS on pavement and gravel; however, last weekend I was end sand pulling my boat and I spun both tires for a good 60 feet in the sand because I got out to inspect the tracks after I was clear of the sand and I could see that they were both pilling up sand. I have not added any LS additive with Neo oil.
 
REDLINE!!! I use the 75-90 in the front diff, lightweight "Shockproof" (140) in the rear diff, MT90 in the 4500 and 15-40 in the motor. Excellent oils, use them in the race car also :cool:



Tom
 
diff oils

I have been using Mobil 1 oils for 20 years very good. I use Mobil 1 75W/90 and add extra friction modifier to it. I don't tow so don't need the thicker oil. At -40*C it is like room temp honey.
 
diffs fluids

I just changed my differential fluid using Mobil 1 75W/90 and add extra friction modifier. I put in 2 tubes of friction modifier (7 oz each)and it still makes noise when i let off the gas. I did about 10 figure 8's to mix up the fluid. Should i keep adding friction modifier until its stops making noise?



Thanks, Jeff
 
I have ran both Mobile 1 75W90 (recommended) and Royal Purple 85w140 in the rear of my truck... the RP is by far superior to the Mobile 1... I can see it in my mileage and the amount of particles on the magnet.



While I dislike RP's Synchromax, their Max Gear is some good stuff.



steved
 
diff oil

I had them put in an extra bottle of the modifyier. The one dollarshop in Fort Sask AB put my oil in the Mobil syn 75W/90 said it was full so when I got home I checked it and found NO oil on the rear magnet oil level plug so I added 1. 5 L's. Just do the da---= thing right so I don't have to do it as well.



How many others find that what is done to the truck is half right or mostly done???
 
2-ND TIME said:
I had them put in an extra bottle of the modifyier. The one dollarshop in Fort Sask AB put my oil in the Mobil syn 75W/90 said it was full so when I got home I checked it and found NO oil on the rear magnet oil level plug so I added 1. 5 L's. Just do the da---= thing right so I don't have to do it as well.



How many others find that what is done to the truck is half right or mostly done???





I won't leave anyone touch my truck... if I absolutely must, I inspect it in the parking lot... get a lot of strange looks when I tell the service writer I want to check the truck before I pay for anything, but I have found loose bolts, brackets/bolts missing, low fluids, etc. before... I don't trust any of them.



steved
 
This all started when i had a Mickey Mouse mechanic change the left differential seal on my truck. Not to sure what they used so i drained and

and went with the mobile 1 gear oil. I keeped adding modifier and still had the rearend clanging. So I'm going to drain the mobil 1 and put in RP 85w140. Hope that helps.



Jeff
 
I've been using Valvoline "Durablend" 85W/140. It's a synthetic blend and needs no friction modifier. My LSD has always worked perfect with this oil.

We tow heavy and I change the differential oil at 50k miles. Total waste of time. . the oil looked fine.

Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top