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Difficulties Replacing 2004.5 Water Pump?

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BKneeland

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Can some one walk me through replacing a water pump - have 86,000 miles. Oklahoma city Dodge dealer said price around $425. :confused:
 
Open radiator drain cock at bottom drivers side of radiator and drain approximately 3-4 gallons of fluid. Catpure coolant with bucket or pan (for re-use). After drain close cock.



You'll need a half inch breaker bar or long ratchet (as in 24-30").

Just remove the 2 10mm head screws that secure the pump and pull pump off (make sure to make note of which way up pump was installed).

Next install new pump and finger start the 2 10mm screws. Torque to 24nm/18ft lbs and re-install belt.



Remove radiator cap and replace coolant.
 
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Got out of the truck this afternoon and there was a mess of drops under the front end. Great. Ran it in the shop and everything on the front is wet, mainly on the right side. Start looking around and it looks like its coming from the A/C unit. Couldn't get it to leak in the shop so I took a little spin and pulled it back in. Nothing. BS'd for a few minutes and started it back up and fluid started running out from somewhere. Finally saw a spray coming from the water pump. Couldn't tell if that where it was originating but then I saw the wheel/pully/whatever it's called wobbling back and forth and something was making a grinding noise.

The liquid does not look at all like coolant. It looks like nice brown oil. Nothing about it says coolant. Opened the radiator to see what the coolant looked like. Keep in mind the engine was up to running temp or nearly so. No pressure on the cap. Hmmmm, that's interesting. Color isn't the same, smell is pretty close.

Close it back up and start 'er up again. Dad's lookin' up top and I'm lookin' underneath. He says, "Come here and stick your nose right here. " So I do. Yep, that's definently a coolant smell.

So, anybody got the Cummins part # handy?
 
I popped the rad. cap to check on the color/whatever of the coolant. It checks out normal. I think the discoloration is from somewhere else. There's 176k+ worth of grime built up so I'm hoping that's where it came from.

I did have to add oil the other day, but 1qt at 2500 miles is normal after an oil change. The dipstick wasn't low tonight. If history holds true I won't add much again before the next change.

Coolant in oil = bad. Oil in coolant = ? Someone refresh my memory please.
 
Coolant in oil = bad. Oil in coolant = ? Someone refresh my memory please.

oil in coolant = less bad than coolant in oil. makes for a sludgy cooling system, but no other real damage that could happen with coolant in oil. can be cleaned with water and a little laundry soap run through the system
 
I replaced mine this week. It wasn't leaking, but it was squeaking at idle. When I took the belt off, the shaft would rock up and down 1/4". With the new one, it is quiet like new (except for turbo whistle and exhaust noise:)).



The water pump is the same part number through 2007. I got a new ASC part no. WP-726 for 48. 99 at Advance Auto, lifetime warranty. It comes with a gasket.



It comes unfinished, so pick up a small can of black, high temp paint and a foam brush to make it look original.



Bolt the WP on with the weep hole down.



I filled up the coolant and left the cap on loose. Then I ran it down the road a mile, just to get it started warming up. I ran it for about ten minutes in the driveway with the cap off, to get air out of the system. Don't get it too full, or coolant will slosh out. When the radiator is warm (thermostat is open) put the cap back on.



After a few trips, I topped it off with a quart or so of coolant.



Do it yourself and the job pays about $200 an hour, if you take your time. Pretty soon you won't even call the dealer for a price anymore.



-Richard
 
Open radiator drain cock at bottom drivers side of radiator and drain approximately 3-4 gallons of fluid. Catpure coolant with bucket or pan (for re-use). After drain close cock.



You'll need a half inch breaker bar or long ratchet (as in 24-30").

Just remove the 2 10mm head screws that secure the pump and pull pump off (make sure to make note of which way up pump was installed).

Next install new pump and finger start the 2 10mm screws. Torque to 24nm/18ft lbs and re-install belt.



Remove radiator cap and replace coolant.
and only a 30 minute job too... :cool:
 
I popped the rad. cap to check on the color/whatever of the coolant. It checks out normal.



That's good. You should be fine. Like Nick says, oil in coolant probably won't hurt anything.



Just for the sake of interesting reading, here's an excerpt from the Cummins ISBe manual regarding the oil cooler:



Cummins Manual 4021271 said:
Since the lubricating oil cooler design does not require gaskets or seals to maintain the separation of oil and coolant, the element itself must leak to allow mixing of the fluids.



Ryan
 
Took about an hour or so. I think getting the coolant out took longer than changing the pump. For whatever reason the mounting bolts wanted to line themselves up so that was nice.

The new pump has a tapered shield on the vanes whereas the original pump did not. Everything seems to be fit just fine but it's definently not an identical pump. Old pump is in the garbage and new one is in truck so no pics.

Old pump was definently shot. It wasn't tight, actually it was quite loose. However is was anything but smooth and quiet. Bearings made some nifty little grinding noises as it spun.

Now I have to figure out how to clean all the crap off everything. Man did that make a mess.
 
Just shy of 3 months on that pump. I got to do that wonderful job again tonight. At least I had a nice warm place to do it. Luckily the auto parts store in SSP is open late.

I bought the first one at bumper to bumper, same chain tonight. They said i'll get my money back if I can find the receipt so all I'm out is a couple hours of sleep.
 
I have an 04. 5 auto with the new fan shroud that is extended about 2" towards the engine. I can't see how I can even change the freaken belt much less R&R the water pump. There's just no room to get in there. Maybe you guys know somthing I don't????:confused:
 
The fan runs off the back side of the belt. There is no reason to take the belt around the fan. Water pump is easy. Two bolts (3?) out/in/done.
 
The fan runs off the back side of the belt. There is no reason to take the belt around the fan. Water pump is easy. Two bolts (3?) out/in/done.



Not if your fan shroud is 1" away from the belt tentioner! Got it out but it was a PITA with that extened fan shroud!!!! #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!
 
2 bolts

taste yes taste the leak

all coolant even elc tastes sweet

then spit

probably yer wp did mine at 200k

pull the belt and spin it and check for slop too if that was not mentioned above

pulling the belt and draining coolant is the hardest part 2beer 1hr job tops
 
2 bolts

taste yes taste the leak

all coolant even elc tastes sweet

then spit

probably yer wp did mine at 200k

pull the belt and spin it and check for slop too if that was not mentioned above

pulling the belt and draining coolant is the hardest part 2beer 1hr job tops



Would someone like to translate this for me:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Not if your fan shroud is 1" away from the belt tentioner! Got it out but it was a PITA with that extened fan shroud!!!! #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!



Remove the bolt(s) that hold the fan shroud (just on that side)... the fan shroud collapses towards the radiator, like an accordion, and provides the extra room needed.

I believe the bolt I removed was on the engine-to-shroud support bracket (shroud end).
 
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