Directions for 60# exhaust valve spring install!

[poor]

Any help would be appreciated. Need detailed directions for installing the 60# exhaust valve springs on a 93 engine-in the truck-the process involved! So as not to lose any of the valves down any of the cylinders. Thanks in advance as always to all help!

 

[Greenleaf]

Very interesting you should mention this. I have this friend that would like to perform this very same thing. I have asked some folks, for my friend again, about this and get a different answer each time. One vendor who will remain nameless, (no not PDR) would not tell me. Refused.



The manual says if you remove one tower you have to remove ALL the head bolts and clean/reinstall/retorque. Philip and I discussed this and concluded that one tower/bolt at a time.



Piston on TDC (Follow the firing order of 153624) and fill the cylinder with air to hold the valves closed. Use the KD tool # 2078 and remove the springs retainer/spring.



I personally, I mean my friend, would like to perform said procedure with out removal of the injectors. Thus no air.



I dunno yet.



Scott

 

[ARedetzke]

When I did mine, I got most of my info out of the 2nd gen 12 valve forum, you will need to search in here on how to find TDC using the timing pin. It is a much more common procedure for the 2nd gen, and once you find TDC it's the same for us. I'll see if I still have the directions printed off at home. Probably be tomorrow though, the wife has me tonight for our 1 year wedding anniversary. The procedure isn't that difficult. Just nerve wracking, cause you're afraid of dropping a valve.

AJ

 

[poor]

I just put the injectors in-hate like hell to have to take them back out-but if I have to I will!

 

[ARedetzke]

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...page=2&pp=15&highlight=changing+valve+springs



Here is a good thread

AJ

 

[ARedetzke]

More specifically, here is how I did it. Good thing I wrote it down, it escapes me now.

Here it is:



In case anyone ever needs to change them, here is how I did it. First, pull the timing pin, and use a mirror to look for the hole in the back of the gear that is at TDC, while turning the motor over with the alternater nut. Once I found that I put the pin back in and turned the motor until it clicked into place. You can now change springs on cylinders 1 and 6. Before you turn the motor be sure to pull the timing pin back out, you may have to turn it forwards (the alt nut turns it backwards) to dislodge the pin. Mark your crank dampener (not sure what to call it, harmonic balancer maybe) at 120 degee intervals, and make a reference mark on the block. To mark the balancer, wrap a piece of wire around it, cutting it to just go exactly all the way around. Then take the wire off, measure it, divide that measurement by 3 (360 degrees divided by 3=120 degrees) and mark the wire, dividing it into thirds, then put the wire back on the balancer, and mark it. Now turn the motor 120 degrees (backwards), this will put pistons 3 and 4 at the top, you can now change these springs. After that turn another 120 backwards and then change 2 and 5. When taking off the rocker arm assemblies remove the small bolt first and then the large one. When retorquing them the big one goes to 125 ft/lb and the small one to 18 ft/lb. To get the 60 # springs to compress enough to fit on, I had to screw them into the spring compressor as far as I could by hand before compressing it. Once all springs are changed, reset the valve lash using the instructions found at www.dodgeram.org. This was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be, thanks again for all the tips you guys gave me. Hopefully these instructions will help others in the future.

AJ

 

[swankmetal]

sounds exactly like what i just did. 'cept i didn't turn the engine, just welded an air fitting on an old injector. one at a time. when it's all done, you'll think it was a lot easier than you're thinking now.

 

[boatpuller]

The only problem with not rotating to TDC on each cylinder before removing spring is that if you do break the seal for the air around a valve it can fall down into the cylinder, with the piston at TDC the valve can only fall a little bit before it hits the piston, it sounds like AJ did this without putting air on the cylinders, if that's the case it's a lot easier to rotate each cylinder to TDC than it is to remove the injectors to put air in the cylinders.



Caleb



Edit: In the world of gas engines I have heard of people taking a piece off 1/4-3/8" cotton rope and feeding it in through the sparkplug hole to fill the space between the piston and the valves, this same thing could be done through the injector hole, bring the piston almost to TDC, stuff with rope, continue to TDC to compact rope, change valvesprings(on a gasser it's usually to change valve seals)

 

[ARedetzke]

IMHO, if you remove your injectors, you're wasting time. Finding TDC is easy. We spent more time arguing about which cylinders should be at TDC (because we were turning the engine backwards, and the directions were for turning it forwards) than we did actually changing the springs. Trust me, this is a MUCH easier job than you think. Follow the way I did it, and all the guess work is taken out of it.

AJ

 

[Greenleaf]

When you turn the engine with the alt nut you have to rotate CC, which is backwards. I have not seen a belt yet rotate the engine clockwise (running direction)



-S

 

[ARedetzke]

That's what I was trying to say. I was too cheap to go buy the engine barring tool. The directions were from a guy that had the tool. So since I was turning the engine the opposite way the he was, I had to essentially reverse the instructions. That is why we spent so much time arguing about which pistons were at TDC. The instructions above are for turning the engine with the alternator nut, CC or backwards. On a side note, it's an even bigger pain in the butt trying to decipher the instructions for setting valve lash when you're doing everything backwards. Kind of the story of my life, always doing everything backwards!!!!

AJ