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Disable Integrated Brake Controller

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Asked dealer to disable brake controller on signature truck I was told they can not do this. I was sure that I thought I had read posts that members had gone to dealers to disable the factory installed integrated controllers. Dealer said no way to do this - is this right?



I also had read a post on a way around this, but I can not find it. I prefer to have it disabled but, if it is not possible I may have to go that way.



If you have had a factory installed controller turned off please let me know how and where!



Tired of "STAR" bull****!!!!!:confused:
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Did you install a MaxBrake?



One option is to run a hot and neutral from the battery to the factory controller and connect the wires to where the hot and neutral wires had been. Or tap into the wiring harness and connect a hot and neutral to the controller.



Some Dealers can remove the controller from the computer and some either don't want to or ?????



Another option is to hit the back button on the steering wheel every time you start the truck and put it in gear to remove the "service trailer brake controller" message.



Curious why you want to disable it?



My 11 controller was a bit better than a P-2 but most people like their 12 controllers. Did you have it set on heavy electric or hydraulic?
 
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Your dealer apparently finds it easier to say NO than be helpful. All the dealer has to do is eliminate the option code that tells the ECM/PCM the truck is equipped with the factory pretend controller. Dealers have been doing it for their customers since 2010 when former member Domehead had it done.
 
Your dealer is full of BS. They have to call the "business office" to get a delete code that the mechanic puts into Star...

I had this done on my 12. My dealer did not charge me for this.
 
Thanks, I have placed several posts because of this - I have mine set on Heavy Electric- 10 and do not feel comfortable about the stopping power, I have a 2011 40' Jayco pinnacle and I have gone as far as replacing all four brake assemblies (plates, magnets and shoes ), rewired the axels to #14 wire and changed all electrical connections.

Did testing of all magnets per dexter at 3. 2 amps draw. Checked total current when emergency breakaway on 5ver was activated and had 6. 4 amps per axel at the trailer wheels.

Tested integrated controller by engaging the emergency slide and got approximately 12. 8 amps at the 7 pin trailer connector. then tried just applying brakes at a standstill - this only resulted in 2 amp draw at 7 pin connector.

I do understand that the inertia switch or "decelarometer" was not in play because of no motion on the truck; I was just doing everything possible before I took it to dodge dealer.

I know I did a lot of unnecessary things but the past history with this dealer has been to simply check codes and if none exist the easy pat answer is "nothing wrong".

When I scheduled the appointment I went into dealership and explained all of this to them, talked to a mechanic and explained the fact that I had connected my trailer to a friends Ford and the brakes on the trailer worked fine. I asked if they needed the trailer to do the tests and was told NO! This sent alarms up in me from the start.

Long story short dealer plugged in computer -no codes means no issue - called star and 5 hours later response saying to connect trailer to another 2012 dodge with same exact ITBM and see how that acts, If that ITBM works better then there is an issue with mine.

I asked about deleting the factory controller from the computer so that I could install an aftermarket and was told they could not do it, it was illegal. I explained that this was being done by other TDR members - they still said they could not do it. They are waiting to hear from Factory Rep - and waiting, and waiting, and etc...

I have gone through same routine with dealer regarding issues to my media center GPS and the truck fuel mileage. This is my fourth dodge Cummings ram and I have had numerous Dodge/Chrysler cars; I am about to ditch Dodge/Chrysler forever. I have a Jag convertible and a chevy traverse and those dealers bend over backwards to help when there is an issue.
 
Did you install a MaxBrake?



One option is to run a hot and neutral from the battery to the factory controller and connect the wires to where the hot and neutral wires had been. Or tap into the wiring harness and connect a hot and neutral to the controller.



Some Dealers can remove the controller from the computer and some either don't want to or ?????



Another option is to hit the back button on the steering wheel every time you start the truck and put it in gear to remove the "service trailer brake controller" message.



Curious why you want to disable it?



My 11 controller was a bit better than a P-2 but most people like their 12 controllers. Did you have it set on heavy electric or hydraulic?







I didn't care for the lack of performance from my 11 brake controller so I bypassed it as well... it's really not that hard and all the factory parts and computer programming stay in place and intact... no need to delete anything. Crath
 
I didn't care for the lack of performance from my 11 brake controller so I bypassed it as well... it's really not that hard and all the factory parts and computer programming stay in place and intact... no need to delete anything. Crath

I have not gotten around to running wires as I detailed above, too lazy! I just hit the back button on the steering wheel and the error goes away.

The dealer in Pahrump told me they could not delete mine from the computer, I did not argue since they were very good to me. I figured when I hit Palm Springs this winter I would ask them to disconnect.

rhoogcamp,

I would suggest you contact Plugitright/Dutch and Di and get a MaxBrake, easy install. Not sure what the problem is with your factory controller, my Dad loves his and his RV is a 34. 5 HitchHiker Premier with electric brakes and he has his set for heavy electric and I think about 6. 5. His TV is a 2012 Ram HO 2wd.
 
Amazing - I finally got the dealer to agree to replace controller - I took the one out of my truck and they were going to pull one off a truck on their lot - PROBLEM the 3500 is different than the 1500 & 2500 and they did not have one.

While mine was out I cleaned the contacts and greased them and banged the controller around to see if anything rattled inside - put it back in truck and it is working amazing. I set it down to 6 and you could feel the trailer was just grabbing lightly ahead of the truck - I could never run this on any setting other than 10 previously.

I could actually lock-up and skid the wheels in a gravel parking lot - never did this before.

Dealer has now ordered a replacement after seeing this for himself.

Morale of the story - If it does not work - hit it, throw it on the ground and kick it a couple of times; that will make it work. I have not found many people with issues on the 2012 controllers , but this may help some!
 
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Amazing - I finally got the dealer to agree to replace controller - I took the one out of my truck and they were going to pull one off a truck on their lot - PROBLEM the 3500 is different than the 1500 & 2500 and they did not have one.

While mine was out I cleaned the contacts and greased them and banged the controller around to see if anything rattled inside - put it back in truck and it is working amazing. I set it down to 6 and you could feel the trailer was just grabbing lightly ahead of the truck - I could never run this on any setting other than 10 previously.

I could actually lock-up and skid the wheels in a gravel parking lot - never did this before.

Dealer has now ordered a replacement after seeing this for himself.

Morale of the story - If it does not work - hit it, throw it on the ground and kick it a couple of times; that will make it work. I have not found many people with issues on the 2012 controllers , but this may help some!


Glad you got it figured out! Like I said earlier my Dad loves his 12 controller. My 11 just worked okay, no adjustment for heavy or light or electric or hydraulic. Went with the MaxBrake and all is well now.
 
Hello All, I have one question for someone... . Does my 2013 2500 HD 4x4 have the “light electric” and “heavy electric” tow that you guys are talking about??? Or did they change from that in 2013??? Can't say that I saw that in my system... . Thanks
Steve
 
There are two ways to work around uncooperative dealers who won't take care of their customers.



#1 lf you unplug the integrated brake controller, Dodge will indicate "TBC Fault" on the instrument

cluster. Some Dodge dealers can deprogram this feature. Most Dodges after 2008 splice the

wiring harness, leaving the integrated brake controller powered on, but with the integrated brake

controller's output wire disconnected.

For splicing, look for these wire colors on Dodge. Confirm with multimeter before plugging in

MaxBrake last. Dodge Purpose MaxBrake smallBlack -Ground White

Big YellodRed +12Y Black

smallWhite/Purple Brake Pedal Switch Red (Not needed for MaxBrake)

Big Green Out to Trailer Brakes Blue

Note: Only one brake controller can be connected to the trailer brakes at the time, so make sure

the unused brake controller's output wire is completely disconnected



#2. If you cannot have your integrated controller disabled by a dealer, I have been informed that you can do this.

To keep the computer thinking all is okay with the factory controller run a 12Ga wire from the positive side of the battery to the blade terminal that had 12v power supply. An in line fuse 5-30 amps is a good idea. Figure out where the black wire on the cable provided would associate with on the controller. Run a 12Ga wire from the battery neutral side to the neutral blade on the factory controller, this relates to where the white wire on the cable provided would associate with on the controller. Basically you are keeping 12V and neutral to the factory controller making it think all is okay.



These 2 suggestions have worked for other Dodge owners. Hugs, Di









Asked dealer to disable brake controller on signature truck I was told they can not do this. I was sure that I thought I had read posts that members had gone to dealers to disable the factory installed integrated controllers. Dealer said no way to do this - is this right?



I also had read a post on a way around this, but I can not find it. I prefer to have it disabled but, if it is not possible I may have to go that way.



If you have had a factory installed controller turned off please let me know how and where!



Tired of "STAR" bull****!!!!!:confused:View attachment 85772
 
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