I suggest AH64ID does write the follow up filter article and it's time to do another one. Sharing the disappointment it needs to be better as already noted. I will throw out some areas that should be covered. Just cutting open new filters has been done better elsewhere. Quite frankly it should already be clear a silicone antidrainback valve, coiled spring, and quality construction matter. Most people cut open
USED oil filters where a failed filter is clear. You can hear the valvetrain clatter on startup longer when the nitrile antidrainback valve has hardened or doesn't work.
Filter designs change and this alone demands an updated article. ACDelco's, PF1070 on the approved filter list, likely has a new elcheepo Ecore design and it's IMO worse quality than FRAM. History and changes made to filters that wiped out engines in the past are of interest. Can we trust FRAM/Wix now? I have gone from avoid FRAM as a last resort to avoid anything made by Purolator and ACDelco even if I have to grab a FRAM.
One factor we simply don't see anywhere that needs to be addressed is miles/time the oil filter is good for. The Purolator oil filters are recently failing after 3000 miles. As most modern oil changes go past 3000 miles this is unacceptable, however, miles/time is a clear limit of oil filters. Looks like Purolator hasn't caught up to this. I like to run my oil as long as possible because changes are expensive and come out of my bottom line. Extending oil changes save money - but not if the filter gets a hole blown/worn in it from higher miles! You are not always safe at 3000 miles on anything as I own a 2500 mile oil change engine. Same with by the book or longer oil monitor system changes if the filter can't make it that far.
My 2003 5.9 can go 15,000 miles on an oil change. You bet I am concerned about the oil filter being able to go 5 times the common outdated 3000 mile expected lifetime!
The above is one reason I do not trust the nylon core support of the ACDelco Ecore. Is the media supported well enough with the steel core missing or will it fatigue tear? The fiberboard endcaps are same quality as FRAM so why not just get a Orange Can of Death that at least has a steel inner core? The extreme hot oil gives me concern as heat makes plastic brittle over time. Combine this concern with a hard cold start on old soot saturated oil that is a 50 weight instead of a 40 weight.
In the past 5 years I have had enough filter failures to be concerned:
Factory Duramax filter disintegrated - No the 2008 glue doesn't make 50,000 miles, the van replacement interval. In fact the replacement has a redesigned plastic "X" to stop the filter implosion from going further and being completely ingested by the engine.
Wix Duramax fuel filter suck air then leak at the WIF sensor threads. This stopped the engine. (The Wix plastic body design is a EPIC failure including less water holding capacity due to smaller body.)
Oil filter media failure.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/251264-Bosch-Purolator-oil-filter-failure
Engine failure we are all watching:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ted-piston-51-000-miles-Fram-filter-the-cause
And with that said I wonder if AMSOIL backing your filter would be a easiest time to get your engine replacement/overhaul paid for if a filter failure takes it out? Yeah another factor to consider warranty and PIA factor if you do loose an engine over a filter. So it would be new ground to ask each manufacturer how long a legitimate claim for a filter caused engine failure would take to have a check in hand.