Truth about water quality
Here’s a topic that I know quite a bit about. It appears that in this discussion, there are actually a few questions:
What’s the difference between DI and distilled water?
What’s the difference between softened water and DI/distilled water?
Why is DI/distilled water corrode metal faster than normal tap water?
I know a bit about water chemistry from my years as a powerplant operator. Water chemistry is extremely critical in any steam plant, especially high pressure and critical pressure plants. We continuously monitor water in all parts of the plant, even including water in the cooling tower which is FAR from being clean!
First off, let’s address what is meant by de-ionized water. The DI process is in some ways similar to how a typical water softener works. A water softener only works to remove minerals that constitute hardness (magnesium and calcium) by forcing water through a resin bed that is saturated with a salt-brine solution. The high concentration of salt in the resin overcomes the lesser concentration of hardness minerals in the water, and replaces the hardness ions with salt ions. This does increase the salinity of the water somewhat, but the salt stays in solution better than does hardness minerals, and are not as hard on pluming, things to be cleaned, etc. Any precipitated salt is much easier to remove than the hardness that would otherwise be there.
Anyway, back to the difference. In a de-ionizing system, water is forced through resin beds that are charged with acid (cation bed) to remove Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium, Potassium, Iron, etc. It then passes through a resin bed charged with a base (anion bed) to remove Bicarbonate Alkalinity, Chloride, Sulfate, Nitrate, Silica and CO2. It then passes through either another cation bed or a mixed bed (cation and anion. ) The effluent is passed through a filter before leaving the process to remove any fractured resins, remaning silica (dirt,) etc.
What you’re left with has been stripped of all ions, and is either H, OH, or H2O. Because there are are no ionized minerals/metals present, the deionized water does tend to ‘attack’ unprotected metals in a given water system. To combat this problem, we used an oxygen scavenger to control corrosion (carbohydrazide,) aqueous ammonia to control pH, phosphates as surfactant, etc. Silica was monitored and controlled by quality of the cycle make-up water, blowing down the boiler drums, etc.
The cooling system is a lot like a boiler with regards to water quality. We hope that there is no localized boiling (prevents convection heat transfer. . . bad juju. ) Localized boiling will deposit minerals on the surfaces against which water is allowed to boil. We hope that the head pressure of the water pump combined with the overall system pressure held by the radiator pressure cap is enough to sufficiently raise the boiling point of the coolant high enough to allow the cooling system to do its job. Just like in a boiler, we don’t merely use pure water. Though pure water will prevent hardness deposits on the heat transfer surfaces, it will not prevent actual corrosion. Antifreeze products add to the situation surfactants, seal lubricants, and corrosion inhibitors that are very important if you wish to have an efficient cooling system with longevity. Guys who run straight water are making a mistake. If they’re using tap water, they’re fouling their cooling system with hardness minerals. If they’re using distilled, DI water, or RO water, they’re encouraging corrosion.
So, what’s the best water to use? Because of the energy involved in PROPERLY distilling water for purification, I’d be willing to say that the water we buy at the grocery store is probably NOT really pure. Most RO systems likewise will not remove 100% of TDS. Softened water??? Not in my cooling system. . . no way. The solids that are likely to be present in any RO, DI, or distilled water is negligible in a cooling system so long as a quality coolant is used. I really think that saying one is ultimately better than the other is like splitting hairs. The quality of water you get at the store is not a constant. Consider the fact that there are a lot of volatized organics leached into the water by the containers they use, and it really kindof throws a hammer in the cookie dough.
Whatever you do, don’t use tap water, “spring water,” drinking water, etc. If it says distilled or no-sodium, processed by reverse osmosis, you’ll be okay. Just make sure you use a quality antifreeze.
BK