Here I am

Ditching overload springs and spacers= WOW!

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PE/EZ Just installed-Idle rpm&Smoke ?

370 injector gasket thickness?

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I still do not understand how removing the o/l's which do not contact the o/l saddles untill the main springs are compressed over 3" will soften a m/t ride ????They are on the top of the spring pac and do not affect the spring deflection rate, untill the o/l's contact the o/l saddles.
 
I believe part of the reason some people remove the O/L springs is to reduce the "slap" noise on rough roads, RR tracks, etc. This reduces noise, and harshness when driving in those conditions... if you re-read Vaughn's first post, he explains this a bit.



Jnutter... I agree with you other than the above reasoning.
 
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That is what happens, I can feel those overloads hit the perches on moderate bumps and it jolts the crep out of me and the noise sounds like something loose in the bed, taking mine off but savin em just in case
 
Vaughn, when I made new-shorter- blocks for my 4by, I shortened the "brake proportioning valve" link so as not to increase the rear braking force when driving empty. Probably there would be no problem in the summer, but the slick winter roads could cause a problem. Actually, come to think of it, lengthening it out would give more rear braking to those that are thinking of going to 3500 rear calipers at a lot less money. Hope that helps.
 
Vaughn, couldn't agree more. I did mine last year and could believe the difference. Up until then, I had tried running low pressure (40PSI) ( made the back end twitchy in corners ) and VelvetRides (marginal gain).



Sleeper
 
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