DIY stock trans upgrades.

[Rays5.9]

Its getting time for a trans service and I would like to add a few goodies. I am considering a shift kit and possibly heavy band anchors and servo upgrade. I looked at the stage 2 upgrade made by DTT and other possibles like a superior shift correction kit and use some sonnax super servos and accumulator etc. I also plan on taking the check ball from the cooling line so that needs reviewed. I bought this truck used at 150k miles so I have no idea if its trans has mods or not. I have a smarty jr on low setting and that's my only and final horse power upgrade. Truck is a daily commuter that pulls a 6000# trailer 1-2 times a year. Im happy with current trans performance just would like a little firmer shifts. Thanks for any advice.

 

[cerberusiam]

Unless you want to fight shift timing issues, stick with the TCS no leak front servo and might as well get their accumulator also. A billet band strut and anchor with a Superior Shift correct kit plus the TCS servos does a good job of addressing issues.

 

[Rays5.9]

Do you think these mods are worthwhile on a high mileage trans, or should I just wait until overhaul time. The truck is now at 188k and I assume the stock trans. I pulled the inspection cover and there is just a plain steel torque converter in there so no billet upgrades or painted aftermarket parts. That being said the trans still operates fine and the fluid looks in good shape after 20k miles. Normal warmed up highway temps hold around 160. Im not above having the trans rebuilt if its about done with its useful life.

 

[cerberusiam]

If the truck hasn't been thrashed and the service has been consistent, there is a better than average chance the updates will extend its useful life. always a roll of the dice on a used unit but unless one goes crazy on pressures it should benefit the life expectancy.

 

[Rays5.9]

I will give it a shot then, Tcs front servo and accumulator with the superior kit and billet anchor. Anything else I should consider while the pan is off? They have a band strut and a 4.2 lever. Is that something that needs to work with the anchor?

 

[cerberusiam]

Band strut you can add. The lever you cannot do with just pan off upgrades. The pin has to come out thru the front of the trans case.

 

[Rays5.9]

Ok, I bought the superior K48re kit and the tcs accumulator and servo etc. Kinda wondering about the Superior kit. Does it modify the valve body to oil in park for better cooling? I plan on pulling the check ball valve when I install the mods. If it does not oil in park do I need to buy a sonnax manual valve? What about oil drain back issues if any? Thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

The TC charge in park has turned into a bit of a Pandora's box. Done correctly it works, incorrectly and you burn up the forward clutch pack in drive.

IIRC the Superior kit comes with a manual valve to implement the charge in park. Do NOT use it, and, if you do make sure you understand its positioning and wear in the VB. Failure to get it correct or too much VB wear and it will mes sup the forward clutches. The Sonnax manual valve seems to be a better design but it has to be positioned correctly also.

Frankly for the 20-30 second sit takes to pop thew truck into neutral to charge the TC it is almost not worth the chances. If you trans is fiarly tight you will not se emuch of a drain back issue.

 

[Rays5.9]

Ok so the superior manual valve is not good? And sonnax slightly better. Will there be compatability issues with the superior shift kit with the sonnax valve? Also do I need to get the lube regulated psi. valve that sonnax recommends? Im all ears.

 

[cerberusiam]

AFAIK there should not be a problem with the Sonnax manual valve and the Superior kit IF the VB bore is not wore and the valve is centered correctly. I have not tried thta exact combination so cannot give you absolute assurances.

Any of the sonnax parts, like that PR valve, are a good addition.

 

[Rays5.9]

So if the sonnax valves are used there is no need to drill the valve body for the full flow mod with the superior kit? So in theory if it all goes foul I can return to stock settings? I was reading about a similar trans upgrade and the guy used similar parts but also used the 4 spool switch valve. should I just pick one up for hell of it since Im in that deep already? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to improve as much as possible with pan off. I ordered a derale deep pan to try and help keep things cool and oily. If you can think of any other pan off upgrades feel free to throw them out there. Thanks.

 

[Rays5.9]

Update: So all the above parts were installed today by a local shop Called Geezers Garage, Coburg Oregon. Cost out the door for labor was 300$ and change. So the difference between the stock mush box trans and the pan off upgrades is dramatic.
The 1st to second is real quick and firm and the rest of the gears shift positively not harsh. Lock up in 3rd and 4th is also improved in feel and speed. No more sliding on in. On highway cruising temps remained normal of 165 degrees.
In town I saw a 15 degree drop in temps as my truck would hit 180 within 4-5 stop lights. It never heated above 165 and it was 92 here today. Not sure if the pan is cooling better or the oil is just resisting heating up as fast either way a win.
No shuttle shift or converter hunting in 3-4 anymore as well. I stuffed my foot in it with the smarty jr on lvl.2 and the truck flat got with it threw the gears and didn't miss a shift or do any weird dance.
Overall mods well worth money. A big thanks to cerberusiam for helping pick out the right stuff. Parts used, Superior shift kit, TCS billet accumulator, TCS billet servo, billet band anchor and strut, Derale deep pan, Sonnax manual valve, Sonnax lube regulator valve. Cost for all parts came to 357.00