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Archived Dm's Truck Is Down Big Time Need Major Help Guy's

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Archived Vp44

Archived CT Module and More

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HOme Again,,



I going over to my truck tomarrow @ 4:30 to see what Im going to do



Bob the Catcher is an option for me if its not to radical .



I would rather use a stock ecm vs. a catcher reflashed ecm if possible



Are you telling me to get the $800 stock Ecm over the Catcher ???



Bob I will send you A PM Please contact me tomarrow ... . or if anyone has Bobs # Please Pm it to me thanks.



Im not sure what Im going to do about all this but I need to know by 4:30 .



Im not sure if the COmp could of fried my ECm I calling them in the AM. For a possible re-program just to be safe . .



I havent been welding on my truck any and there hasnt been any lightning Im still not sure why @ 45,000 does my ECM DIE ???? And Who's to say my New one rather it be stock or Catcher wont follow.



Does the Stocker or the Catcher have a warentee ??



DM
 
I got the 888 # off his site I will call in the Am



Seems like its for Standard trucks and not as much Auto's



Something to look into Quickly to see What Im going to do For sure.



DM
 
Soldering your comp wire to your pump wire = sorta like welding :-laf <jk>



I think that Washington is a couple hours behind us in time.



Looks like Edge will be getting a couple of calls on the same thing today ;)
 
*******update*******

Here are the codes I had :



P1295 APP Sens. Suppy Voltage Low

P0606 EMC FAILURE

P1488 Aux. 5 Volt Output too low

P0112 1 AT Sencer Circuit Low Voltage

P0342 Cam Pos. Sensor Circuit Low Voltage

P0237 Map Low Voltage

P0562 Charging Sysytem Voltage Too Low

P0217 Decrased Engine Performance Engine Over Heat

P1693 Companion Module

P0606 ECM/PCM Processor

P0122 TPS Sensor A Circut Low Input

P0117 Eng Coolant Tmep Snsor Curcuit Low Temp




Thats all



Bob Wagner is shipping me a Stock ECM for a loaner to see if thats my only problem. If it is I will be getting a MARCO's Mad ECm if its not then I dont know what Im going to do.



I contacted EDGE ..... A+++++++++



For free there going to check all my harnesses for shorts and what not and update my Comp from VEr. 7 to Ver. 8 My comp and wires will ship out to Utah tomarrow. And My Mech has a cool pin connector that I will use to re-contact the Pump Wire its not a "T" tap its a little cylnder that has a pin on both ends.



The Edge Box does not talk to the ECm so its been said that most likly the Comp didnt have anything to do with my ECm the Comp is between the ECM and the Motor and it just magnifies certain commands and sends them to the motor ... . Basically.



But just to be sure Im having my Comp box get the ONE OVER .



Now the only thing I can do is WAIT And hope like heck that Bobs loaner will not throw any codes



A P7100 conversion was discussed ""We dont need no stinkin' ECm"" but for the minimum of $4000 for ther Convert ""I do Need a stinkin ECM"" ... LOL



Edge is GReat



Bob your savin me here



Thanks to all TDR help so far And hopefully this thread may shine some light on anothers problem's one of these days



More to come hopefully GOOD news



BTW : the Tripple Disk SunCoast and Extreame VB is setting right here beside me :( Now if I just had a truck to put it into



BTW II: I picked up a Alum Heavy built FF cap With a Tap for 20 Smakers my mech. is a bit deeper into the CTD stuff than I though he had a suppier make them and he was selling them for $65 it was his last one and sence he knew I was going to be making him Rich he gave it to my for $20 .



Anyway back to getting my truck on the road then I will feel better about shutting it back down to have the TC/VB installed it may be a while :(



DM
 
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I contacted EDGE ..... A+++++++++



For free there going to check all my harnesses for shorts and what not and update my Comp from VEr. 7 to Ver. 8 My comp and wires will ship out to Utah tomarrow.



Now that's a company you like to do business with (and can trust). Good luck, DM.



Jim
 
Hey Dm I didn't read all of this as I am falling asleep but have you checked all your grounds??? Mainly engine ground and batt connections?? The main engine ground was my huge issue ... could be yours?
 
Whats the other problems I have to sort out ???



other than the Edge Fix



I really dont know where to look or where to go .



In have checked my grounds and all that stuff and Im going to be doing things a bit diffrenet when I throw it back together ... but other than that there really aint a whole lot I can do . Bills in the same boat



Do we just chaulk it up as Shoot Happens !



And replace it and just think to our selves that the ECM will never go out again ??



Im not sure if next time I will get as lucky as I did this time and be able to get a GOOD LOANER.



thats not a good fealling



DM
 
Before throwing parts at the truck you could ,try a large can of WD 40 spray all wire fittings under the hood to get out the dust or water ,make the contacts work better can't hurt ,also check the air filter and clean or replace filter, try others tips first befor spending $ lots of luck. Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY . :confused: :confused: :confused: :)
 
Thanks for the tips Ron, but I think you may have missed a lot of the history on this. DM's and my problems are almost identical in symptoms. I have cleaned every connector I could find in the engine compartment with electrical parts cleaner, blew them out with air, and coated them with di-electric grease. I also checked and cleaned every ground also in the engine compartment that I could find, 6 of them I believe. I think DM has also done the same. The ECM in both trucks failed with numerous codes, all related to a common ground trace in the ECM. Both trucks are running fine with loaner ECMs. We have compared notes on how our Comp boxes are wired and tapped into the VP, gauge and pusher pump wiring, aftermarket stereo (DM) and backup light (mine) wiring. Also, we both have sent our Comp boxes to Edge for testing. This a really weird problem that caused the ECM failure, what is worse is that I had mine repaired and tested and it failed again immediately after re-installing it in my truck. The ECMs are definitely blown, what caused them (twice on mine, 2nd time w/o the comp connected) to fail and what to do to prevent it from happening again, and why they are running on loaner units is still a mystery...



btw, our trucks are the same basic models, DM's ECM failed about three weeks after mine, and we have not worked on each other's trucks.
 
YEP... . WE'RE SCREWED







IM going for the MARCO FIX (CATCHER'FY MY STOCKER)and I just hope what happend to RNR dont happen to me.



If it does Im either getting a whole new catcher or a stocker which ever one has the best warentee !







DM
 
Here's a wild-eyed idea:



Have you checked the voltage output of your alternator, right at the battery while the engine was at a high idle RPM? Is it possible you both have failed voltage regulators that is allowing far excessive system voltage that subsequently blows out a solid state regulator inside the ECM, and causes it to fail simply because it's the weakest link in the chain? Perhaps in that scenario, the ECM loaner that IS working simply has a slightly stronger regulator, and hasn't failed - yet?



You SHOULD see somewhere between 15-16 volts max at the battery under those conditions...
 
How do we check for leaking voltage?



I checked with a digital meter at the battery while the truck was at idleing the voltage was good, I will have to check at high rpm and see what happens.
 
Rock-N-Rammer said:
How do we check for leaking voltage?



I checked with a digital meter at the battery while the truck was at idleing the voltage was good, I will have to check at high rpm and see what happens.



Dunno what you mean by "leaking voltage", but you can check for AC ripple by switching a test meter to AC mode and see what readings you get, a small level would be normal maybe - never checked mine for a baseline, but if yours seems high, let us know - I'll run a check on mine later today outta curiosity.



If you mean checking for random voltage drains from wiring or accessories shorts, you need to pull the positive or negative battery leads and place a meter in series between the battery and it's leads to check current flow. But that requires a meter that will measure ampereage at least into the 1 or 2 amp range in case there is a significant drain, which might damage a more sensitive meter - and you dern sure don't want to try to start the truck while doing that sort of test!



And you want to check DC voltage with engine RPM up a bit to get the alternator and system voltage upscale a bit.
 
yes that is what i meant. use a dvom on a/c and check voltage. im not sure what is acceptable. i can check mine also for a baseline. mark
 
wtfd6 said:
yes that is what i meant. use a dvom on a/c and check voltage. im not sure what is acceptable. i can check mine also for a baseline. mark



My DC voltage as measured with a digital meter was 14. 6 at a good idle, taken right at the battery terminals. Couldn't get a decent AC reading with that meter - it's an auto-ranging type, and kept jumping readings - so used an analog meter, and got 30 volts AC at the batteries - seems lots higher than I expected, but at least now I know!
 
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