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Do I need a new clutch? (pictures included)

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wierd issue with edge/attitude

Stainless tips for 5" pipe

I got my motor out, now I'm wondering if I need a new clutch too... The one in the pics is a South Bend 13" OFE. It has about 15,000 miles on it. NOW, I AM NOT BASHING ON SBC OR THEIR CLUTCH! It has been holding more than it is rated for during the entire 15,000 miles. The truck dyno'd 525HP and 1090 FtLbs with this clutch, and there had been more HP added since the last dyno test.



THAT, IN MY OPINION, IS AN AWESOME PRODUCT!!!



So, any advice on whether or not this thing is smoked? It would be ideal if I could get through the winter with it...







-Matt
 
Yes, I would replace the clutch. The bluing is from excessive heat (slippage). The flywheel and pressure plate need attention as well.



I wouldn't bother putting that one back in. No sense in pulling it twice.
 
Obviously, the best would be to replace it, but you stated you would like to get through winter with it. I can tell you that thing looks virgin compared to My con FE when i pulled it out. I put that thing through hell and back. There obviously is some blue on there, but not too bad. the iron side does not care, as it will "seat" in when you slip it a little, but that is hard on the organic side. I would say if you dont mind pulling it back out again you could get away with it as long as the hub feels solid and all the springs look ok. You might just hit the plate and flywheel with a D. A. sander to scuff it and throw it back in untill you can upgrade. Not ideal, but i bet works. ;)
 
Right on, rubberneck-thats what I wanted to hear!



I know I should throw this thing in the garbage and put a new one in there, but I have a hard time dropping another 1200 bucks right now, especially since this one was holding pretty good when my motor toasted.



It won't bother me too much if I have to pull the transmission in a couple-three months to throw a new clutch in. I figure I wont be too hard on this one anyway because I'll be breaking in my fresh rebuild for a while... ... :confused:





Thank you for the help guys!

-Matt
 
Joseph Donnelly said:
get a con-Fe next time. Holds more power, more resistant to heating problems than an organic facing.



Heck no, run that baby easy like you said untill you can save the money for a proper clutch. Once you go dual disc, you will never go back. LOL :D
 
WOW! I don't mean to seam like an *******, but why would you not replace the clutch disk and pressure plate. That's like changing a gasser engine and installing the old plugs, rotor, distributer cap & wires. To save money I would see about resurfacing the pressure plate and fly wheel and a new disk would probably cost around $400
 
I think everybody would agree that his clutch is now a nice door stop. He just wanted an opinion as to if it would make it through the winter if he babied it while he saved for a better clutch. Gauranteed it will hold well enough for that. I should have posted pics of my very abused con FE. You guys would not have believed the truck moved let alone was not slipping. I did everything bad that you could do to a clutch and only replace it cause i tow heavy trailers and didn't like the grabby engagement especially when backing up. The organic side of his clutch is definitely garbage, but that iron side will hold. Trust me that thing will get through the winter. then he can upgrade :D
 
rubberneck said:
I should have posted pics of my very abused con FE.



Do you have pics? I'd like to see them if you do. :)



I should've taken pics of the clutch I pulled out of a Deere 4020 tractor. 2/3 of the organic lining was sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing, and the rivets on the hub of the traction clutch and the PTO clutch were loose. Plus the pressure plate (traction clutch) and flywheel were all blue and/or heat checked and some cracks.
 
the clutch has obviously seen better days but I agree if it was holding when you took it out it will work for a while yet. . Not the best thing to do, but if you know you have to drive gently to break in a motor I am sure it will be fine on a temporary basis.



www.dieselperformancesolutions.com
 
Sorry, no pics, they were on another computer that crashed. Lets just say, there were chunks of lining in places they should not have been. Near the end of that clutch, I did some very hatefull things to it and it still held. I guess that says something about it.
 
I'd put that clutch back in without a sweat.



My FE looked completely wasted when I rebuilt my motor, but I didn't have any $$ to replace it... . That was atleast 20,000 miles ago, and I've dyno'd as high as 588rwhp and 1139rwtq.



My clutch had gotten so hot that the metal part of the clutch apperantly had melted and was covering a portion of the rivets. My pressure plate and flywheel had some extreme blueing, and gouging.



My clutch, with my driving, is still holding fine. I drive my truck very hard,,, launching in 2nd at 2,000RPM, and short-short shifting to 3rd with a power shift is a normal day. If I don't get atleast 30* sideways, or leave 40' worth of rubber down a day, I go home and sulk.



I'd put it back in, and drive with confidence.



Merrick
 
MCummings said:
I'd put that clutch back in without a sweat.



My FE looked completely wasted when I rebuilt my motor, but I didn't have any $$ to replace it... . That was atleast 20,000 miles ago, and I've dyno'd as high as 588rwhp and 1139rwtq.



My clutch had gotten so hot that the metal part of the clutch apperantly had melted and was covering a portion of the rivets. My pressure plate and flywheel had some extreme blueing, and gouging.



My clutch, with my driving, is still holding fine. I drive my truck very hard,,, launching in 2nd at 2,000RPM, and short-short shifting to 3rd with a power shift is a normal day. If I don't get atleast 30* sideways, or leave 40' worth of rubber down a day, I go home and sulk.



I'd put it back in, and drive with confidence.



Merrick





And after 2 years of seeing Merrick driving around IRP/TiM, I will attest to how he drives!



Josh
 
i would have the flywheel resurfaced. then call peter and see if he can send you an FE disk. wont cost you 1200 bucks and you might as well do something since its out.
 
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