Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Do it yourself timing, without the tools!

[Dennis Garrett]

Well this is interesting, somebody try it & let me know if it works.

http://dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000404

 

[illflem]

I never listened much to Buddy Holly when I was young and will even less now

 

[Joe G.]

Sometimes I am really amazed at how dumb some people are. There is no way that method is going to work. Just plain ignorance. When you tighten the gear it changes the timeing. The last time I did mine, it was about three do overs before I got it to tighten up with the timeing like I wanted. It's a good thing these engines will run with just about any timeing that is even close.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Bill how about this, scrap the timing pin cause it sucks and turn the motor over to TDC measured the real way with a valve, then mark the balancer, then turn the pump till it's TDC and lock it in, break the gear loose the put the motor at TDC now your at 13. 5 so that's your base. Then with the pump locked down and the gear loose roll the motor back as far as needed... (every 3/8th's of and inch is a degree) then lock the gear down, unlock the pump and T/Q to specs, Does this sound familiar! I haven't done it only heard it, what I really want is a spill port kit if someone would make them!!! Hint, Hint!



Jim

 

[MLee]

timing

Garrett:

it is advisable to do it with the #1 delivery valve method and gauge. that way you have a better knowledge as to where your timing * degrees have gone. piece of mind is worth a million. do it right.

just my penny's worth.



Marv.

 

[illflem]

How do you know 13.5 is your base?

Besides what Joe said the main problem with the toolless method is how do you know where you started?

I've seen factory timing as low as 10°, seems like a lot of wasted work if you think you're going from 13. 5 to 16. 5 when you really only jacked it up to 13.



This toolless method would work and may even be easier than the delivery valve and gauge method if you used a timing light, but a diesel timing light runs about $500. There are inductors available that hook to a regular spark fed light for $200, not sure how good they are though.

 

[T. Baker]

That is the way I did mine exept I used a starett angle finder. Even Piers said I could do it that way if I was carefull. I did not feel like the pump or engine moved at all when tightening the pump gear. The pump timing pin was in when I tightened the gear and came out without binding when I was done. Thus the pump did not move. Also the engine did not move while tightening the gear. I admit that my timing is no more acurate the the factory timing. But I don't know why I should re guess everything Cummins did. Both my timing pins went in at the same time so I know it hadn't slipped since the factory.

I don't know why it would be that hard to build a spill port tube. All it would be is a tube with a nut that goes where # 1 injector is. Make sure it is full of fuel, turn the engine and when it drips that would be the beggining of injection right? I set mine to 15* but if I am off by a degree and it is a 16* that would be ok too. I bet I am within 1/2* I was very carfull about making sure all the back lash was out of the pins and the gears. I am a machinist so I know how to set things up without back lash etc.

 

[Cooker]

In the link posted it looks like Buddy Holly post has disappeared (other than the quote posted by another member)?

 

[illflem]

there were several posts from Buddy

Good for all concerned that his posts were pulled.

What I saw coming from it was even though his system may have worked many less than mechanical folks trying to save a buck on tools would end up screwing things up. My2¢

 

[ADSmith]

I just did mine this weekend. The only special tool I used was the delivery valve socket - I used a standard dial indicator with a magnetic stand to measure the plunger travel and found TDC using the timing pin alignment procedure from the factory service manual (using the #1 intake valve). I really didn't have any trouble with the timing changing when I retightened the nut - though I did put grease on the nut and didn't put the washer on until I had it up to about 30 ft/lbs. My biggest problem was having the pump shaft move when the gear was pulled off. I finally slipped a piece of heater hose over the end of the shaft and used vise grips to move it back to the proper place. Stock timing measured out at 13 (supposed to be 13. 5) and I set it to 15. I'll second the comment about the copper washers - $14. 20 each from DC

 

[Jim Fulmer]

T. Baker



Good to hear from you! Hows the scout running?



I was thinking, wonder what it would be like with allot of fuel and Twins, heck mine is fun and it weights 6300 LBS.



Jim

 

[T. Baker]

Hey Jim,

It is running great! I'm at the edge of the efieciancy range of the HX35 HX40 hybrid turbo I'm running. Well only when I really need to not let some yuppy in a German SUV pass for no reason. I have an HT3B and a waste gate sitting on the floor here waiting for me to install them for my twin set up.

I weighed in at the Tulare truck pulls at 5240 #s with me my tools and some junk in the back.

 

[Reb.B]

there is nothing wrong with doing this method. If u are off a degree or so it isn't a big deal anyway(as long as it is advanced). If u degree the balancer and pull the #1 injector, u can see where the pump timing is and set it to where u want it. I wouldn't do it cause it takes for ever to degree the balancer, but if u did a good job of it, then this procedure is fine. Spill port timing and getting the motor at TDC #1 is the best method.