Do NOT IDLE a Cummins longer than 10 MINUTES!

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To all cold weather Cummins owners who already perfected a hand controlled throttle system. As they already know per Cummins Bulletin #3379001-05 regarding engine idling: DO NOT IDLE THE ENGINE LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES BECAUSE COMBUSTION TEMPS DROP SO LOW THE FUEL MAY NOT BURN COMPLETELY. THIS WILL CAUSE CARBON TO FORM IN THE INJECTOR SPRAY HOLES & ON THE PISTON RINGS & CAN RESULT IN STUCK VALVES. Hence the high 1000-1100 idle speeds our Artic #ad
friends r using to reach & keep safe operating temps. I'm experiencing sub zero temps in the am & even w/ a block heater it'll NEVER warm up @ "normal" idle speeds. W/o a block heater it won't start at all but thats another issue of intake heater, relay & temp sensor testing I'm working on. So instead of a lowly "club" pushing on the foot throttle I need advise or a BIG #ad
NUDGE in the right link direction on installing a trick #ad
hand adjustable idle control worthy of the Mighty Cummins. Thanks ALL!

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94 2500HD 5sp 4. 10LSD w/GearVendor OD,Killed Kitty w/ 9 lives & muffler fell off. Geno's drainplug, 120,000 miles. NRA Member. V1 in the window.

 

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Don't know if you would like it but you can get a locking throttle cable at NAPA. I use the chrome one in my dump truck and it works and looks great. I have had it for awhile so can't help you on a part number or price. I do know that it wasn't very expensive. Hope this helps. The one I have has a "T" handle.

 

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Mike another cold weather warm up trick I've learned is to put the heater on recirc when warming up. When it's below zero just the cold outside air passing over the heater coils is enough to keep the engine from warming. On recirc cab temp air passes over the coils and gets warmer and warmer.

 

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I may be doing the ultimate sin, but I am kinda lazy. What I do is set my rpm's at 1100 with a stick inbetween the seat mount and diesel pedal. I then shut the engine off, and it is ready to go at 1100 rpm's when I hit my Viper remote starter in the morning. Might be to high of rpm's before it has time to warm up, btu there has to be a trade off for everything. I can see an oil pan heater in my future. I am also running 0-40, so that eases my mind a little.

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John McEachern
Fort St John B. C. Canada
1998 12v, 4X4, QC, auto w/tc switch, air, tilt, cruise, 3. 55 gears, TST #6, Isspro boost/pyro/transmission gauges, BD VB&TC, CC industries headache rack and rails, JVC KD-SX949 Cd player, forest green,
Kelly Safari MSR 285 75 16, K&N airfilter.

 

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Western snowplow offers a handthrottle kit, mine came stock from Gene's Chrysler in Fairbanks, AK with it. It works GREAT @ minus 70... . start it, wait for oil pressure, and let 'er idle up to 1100 rpm. Part of winterization kit up here for ALL diesels (including the "censored" type). ISB has computerized "idle-up" feature. All Interior Alaskan 12v Cummins have manual hand throttles installed. #ad


Your cold spell down there would be a nice spring, almost summer day for us. Send a little bit of that "negative 10" weather to us anytime from mid December to mid february alright!! #ad


Contact Gene's Chrysler in Fairbanks, AK (907)-452-7117, for availability (or western snowplow). You may have to order it thru Gene's though, and it's gonna be a bit more expensive than what you'd pay in the "america" but well worth it! #ad


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Jason Case
'95 2500 4x4 Auto Reg Cab
BD torque converter and valvebody, #5 fuel plate, BD 4" exhaust turbo back, K&N RE-0880,transmission temp boost and egt gauges.
Pressure Lock on order
No 2-wheel-drives in sight,PowerCHOKE stompers, UNITE!

'99 KTM 300 EXC

[This message has been edited by sixkill (edited 11-18-2000). ]

 

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Those of you who have an exhaust brake, turn it on when idling a cold engine and it will put the engine under a slight load and the problem Cummins stated will not apply to you. The engine will warm up fast enough to avoid the carboning.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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http://www.awdirect.com/ Try this link. They have all sorts of throttle controls.

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1997 2500 4x4,Auto,Cal. e. g. r. (for now),3. 54's,Amsoil throughout,DiPricol egt/trans temp/boost gauges,ready for more power

 

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I use an air operated high idle switch that keep the RPMs at 1100. Last week my truck was not shut off for 7 days straight. Up in the cold snow country. Work just fine for my hotshot work. Got to keep the heater on high to keep the sleeper bearth warm. mike

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92 Std cab. LE. 215 P-pump reman cummins motor. 5-speed, 3. 54, 105 gal Aux tank in bed. Borgeson shaft, Banks Power pack. 12cm Hot end housing w/wastegate. 4" Exh, Pyro & boost guage, oil temp guage. E-brake. Galaxy DX99V, Used as a Hotshot/express Reg. at 36,000 lbs in 48 states. Custom built DOT approved Sleeper unit. & Texas Star 400 http://hometown. aol.com/hotshothauler/myhomepage/business.html 2000, 3500 being setup for Hotshot work as we speak. 250 miles todate

 

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You guys are right. Not only will extended idle build up carbon or varnish, but also your rings don't seal well to the cylinder wall at idle. Too much idle time lets fuel into the crankcase and contaminates (blackens) the oil. Diesel in the oil is not good!
I drive a big truck for a living and always up the idle after a minute or so of warm-up time (depending on the outside temp). On my big truck with a CAT, the idle can be set with the cruise control. Probably some way to do that with the 5. 9 Cummins... I don't know.

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for the what it's worth department,
here's what I did. I went to salvage
yard and bought a fast idle solenoid
off of 6. 9, 6. 2 or even old 5. 7 diesel
engine. they all had them. I had to
modify the bracket so I could use top bolt
in front timing cover,to bolt in on,
in line w/the mechanical throttle.
my truck is a 97. these little fast idle
solenoids are not strong enough to push
throttle open, but will hold it open,
after you throttle it a little. I put
a toggle switch on dash to activate mine.
hope this makes sence to someone.

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I went to the local Sap Bros and pick up an idle rod for around $7 or so. The rod goes on the go pettle and a lever hooks under the dash and is fully adjustable.

Mac

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95 Ram 2500 Auto Std Cab, Cat & Muffler Fell off, 125,000 miles.
Bombed-to-be!

 

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I'm seeing some excellent ideas here! SIXKILL, I'm sending a "warmfront" & some -10 temps your way. That -70 stuff has to be a whole different kinda world. #ad
I'm wondering what kinda of cold weather covers or wind blocks u use to keep operating temps up in actual use. I'm using cardboard in between the radiator & intercooler w/ the minimun 1 square foot cut out over the fan level area. I also have cardboard blocking all wind flow behind the bee hive grill. Even when the temps get up into the +30'sdegF the h2o temp does NOT get over 190 unless I'm pulling my horse up a steep grade. Cummins states that the engine needs to run "at least 140 & perferably above 160 degF to burn the fuel completely. Ideally, they burn fuel best at 170-190 degF, with 180 being a good nominal temperature". Therefore, I've been blocking air flow to the cooling system in an effort to reach those temps recommended by Cummins. W/o the "windblocks" I was running only 140 in the sub zero stuff. So I'm thinking what the H#$@ do those guys do where they have the REAL COLD weather? And for the rest of the email from Cummins re: op temps so everyone knows what the LIMITS R #ad
. "The thermostat should start to open around 180degF & be fully open by 203degF. This means if your engine temperarture rises above 203degF & doesn't come back down, then you should back off the throttle or downshift, until the temperature falls to around 200degF. That will determine your max speed & or load & under no circumstances should the engine be operated above 212degF or engine damage will result. " #ad
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[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 11-20-2000). ]

 

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Sorry, but I must be missing something. I've been watching my digital EGT since this thread started. We've had a cold snap and as an example this morning the temp was in the teens (nowere as cold as our friends up north live with). My truck (96 w/5 speed) was plugged in. I started her up, let the EGT stabilize at idle, then increased rpm to 1100 - 1200 and saw only 7 to 14 degree increase in egt. I also did the same check after driving the truck and getting the coolant temp. to around 160 degrees (its hard to get her to warm up in town). I again let her idle long enough to get a stable egt, then increased rpm to 1100 - 1200 and again saw only a 7 to 14 degree egt rise. I don't see any advantage to higher idle except to help the alternator recharge my batteries faster. What am I missing?

Gene

 

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Gene, the bottom line is the Cummins is OVERCOOLED & if u let it idle excessively i. e. longer than 10 minutes u run the risk of carbonizing injectors & rings. Basically shortening the long life of the motor to a short life because engine temps r not high enough @ normal idle. 160degF is the perferred min temp recommended by Cummins to burn fuel effectively. Notice how long it takes u to get to 160 when its only in the teens. Imagine the scenario when its well below zero. Some Cummins owners run them for days, even weeks straight in extreme conditions or like me just run them in the "wimpy" #ad
negative teens in the mtns hunting. I'll have it idling for way longer than 10 minutes while I'm loading the horses etc & still not have the temp gauge even move. The high idle w/ cold weather blocks will bring the temp up to an acceptable range to avoid engine problems down the road. A little more heat in the cab is nice too. Hope this helps. Remember its better to be overcooled than is to be undercooled, overvalved or powerchoked! #ad
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[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 11-21-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 11-21-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 11-21-2000). ]

 

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Mikepvg, thanks for the response. I also have my radiator blocked, all but about 1 square foot. My intent of the previous post was to question the use of high idle, I just don't see that much greater EGTs. Driving slowly on local streets produce much higher EGTs and yet its very hard to get 160 degrees F. I even abstain from turning on the blower (lowest setting) till I see 140 degrees F. The 12 valve Cummins is just toooooo effecient, no wasted energy to keep me warm!!!

 

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I only use a piece of cardboard between the intercooler and the radiator at temps below zero. No holes. Last year I also used cardboard in front of auto transmission cooler. This year I'll watch my gauge before I determine when I'll do that again. The engine warms plenty fast enough at 1000 RPM's. When it's cold enough I'll plug in. At or about 0. I like to plug in at least two hours before operation. My winterization kit consists of more than just a block heater. It contains of two oil pan heaters, one transmission oil pan heater, two battery pads, and the factory block heater. Fairbanks promotes people to plug in at 20f above to save on emissions, but someplaces like Eielson AFB will write you a ticket for plugging in prior to -10f.

You'll find this interesting. At -40f when I drive down the highway for longer than five minutes, my brakes will start to freeze. You can tell because the pedal gets hard to push, almost like you have no power brakes. If you use them often enough, the fliud warms and becomes normal again.

I'll entertain you with other answers about arctic operation if anyone has any question. #ad

 

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Sixkill I thought 20 was cold!! Does everyone have that many heating devices on their trucks??? P. S. Tell Santa not to skip my house this year -- THANKS

 

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SixKill, Artic operation IS fascinating. I imagine 1 would have 2 experience it 2 appreciate it. Sounds like the chances of getting stranded somewhere r a little higher than the lower 48. Hence the name sixkill? cause u carry a sixshooter so u don't become a SNACK for some cold hungry Artic critter? #ad
How many or how common is it that facilities offer an electrical outlet for block heaters? Whats the AFB's reasoning for ticketing above -10F. Is power from the utilities limited/costly or do large facilities generate there own power, therefore try to economize it? #ad
I just received a cold temp fuel blending chart from Phillips Pipe Line Co. From looking @ this chart u must be using Diesel#1 100% AND possibly an additive? P66's D#1 here has a cloud pt of only -12F. The terminal specification chart that was emailed to me did not give lubricity levels but I know that they r lower in D#1 & K-1 Kerosene. Do u add a lubricating additive? Do y'all experience any type of common motor problems associated w/ using these Artic Fuels & or blends? Is there any statistical data on the longevity of Cummins used under these conditions? #ad


[This message has been edited by mikepvg (edited 11-22-2000). ]

 

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It's very common to see electrical outlets in the parking lots. Everybody's car or truck has to winterized. Unless you don't feel like driving for the winter months. The AFB doesn't want to see "Fraud, Waste, and Abuse". I guess they feel it is not important to keep your vehicle in good operating condition.

In Alaska I'm told we don't have to use reduced sulpher fuels. I'm not sure if we do or not. I do know we burn #1 all winter long. The fuel companies put addittives in the fuel. Even with this, all the experts agree that nuber one is still too "dry". For that reason I use at a very minumum a Qt of 2 stroke oil for every tankful. I like to use Howe's Diesel Treat or Stanadyne in my 600 gallon supply tank.

As far as the life of a Cummins up here, it isn't any different that in the lower 49, IF you do PM. (preventative maintenance) I know of a fellow who hauls cars from Florida to Alaska on a regular basis and has logged close to million miles on his original Cummins. But on the same note he has burned up his fair share of trannies, manual and autos.

Sixkill refers to my six cylinders "killing" anything I desire. #ad
(PowerJokes, PowerChokes pulling trailers, and the ocasional gas burners. Have I mentioned the big-headed Phord owners that think they own the best diesel around? Guys, I'm surrounded by people that actually think this. Diesel trucks are extremely common here. Probably 1 out of 4 pickups! And to top that, trucks are more common than cars. )

It is our duty as TDR members to teach others (phords)of their wrong-doing by showing them the mighty power of our trucks.
Am I wrong, or am I wright?

 

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Sixkill, Thanks for sharing some more Artic insight. 2 stroke oil! What a great idea! #ad
I'm surprised I didn't even think of it since I raced 2 stroke dirt bikes since I was knee high to a grasshopper. Sixkill, U R WRIGHT! We as TDR members need to educate the ill informed(Phurd owners). I just recently picked up my 94 so I am still sorting things out that were NEGLECTED #ad
but when I'm done my mission is a Xcountry trip to WI to give my Brothers PowerChoke a good whoopin!!! #ad
That'll shut his never ending Phurd Flapping Piehole up for good! #ad
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