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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Do you guys adjust the bands on your 47RE?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brake Problems 96 3500

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) My Overflow Bottle Solution

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Check the after market transmission rebuilders web sites. I know one of them has pictures and procedures, been there done that.



Bob Weis
 
Just get a Haynes book, it's in there. Don't have mine handy or I would tell you the steps on how to do it. Really easy to do. When you back off the adjust screw as part of the final step, back it off one extra full turn from what it will tell you. That way they won't be too tight. One of the adjustments is external and one you will have to drop the pan to get at.



Did mine at 140k or so, shortly after buying the truck, they were WAY out of adjustment.
 
On the final step , back off the nut the specifiied number of turns in the book, any more and the band will be too loose, this is what kills them. On early Mopar cars (HI-PO) there were different ratio levers for the front band which applied harder so they had looser adjustment specs to start with. The rear band in my humble opinion will likely never need adjustment, it is used for reverse and to assist the one-way clutch in manual low. Unless you shift into reverse while still rolling forward the rear band is grabbing and holding a stationary object. The rear band has an easy job compared to the front which in order to provide 2nd gear must stop the front clutch drum from engine speed. This is why the front band is sometimes called a brake band. I repaired a 4 spd O/D in my friends 200,000 mile plus B-van, only thing wrong ... ... burned up front band from being too loose. The front band adjustment is external.
 
Yes, everytime the pan is off, both adjustment screws are tightened to 72 inch pounds, the front on is then backed off 2 turns and the rear band 3 turns.



Doug
 
Just had the shop manuel out today looking at this as I am getting close to doing this.



Front band gets torqued to 72in/lbs and then backed off 1 7/8th turns. Locknut then gets torqued to 30ft/lbs.



Back band gets torqued to 72in/lbs then backed off 3 turns. Locknut then gets torqued to 25ft/lbs ( dont know why its different)



Pan bolts torqued to 13ft/lbs.



All of this is direct from DC 2001 shop manuel pages 21-709 to 21-710.



Make sure that when u are tightening the locknuts that u hold ur torque on the adjusting screws in place so that it in maintained.



Hope this helps.

J-



ps I think that DC says every 30K for the bands and fluid/filter change ( but I could be wrong)
 
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I adjust mine everytime I change the fluid which is about every 10K. As described, no big deal except that you will need a torx bit for the front while the manual calls out for a socket (if memory serves me correctly)
 
Found my other post-



I adjusted my bands a couple of months after I bought my truck. Had about 142k on it and they hadn't ever been touched. They were really loose. It seemed to help some but not a whole lot.



According to my Haynes book it says for the '97:



Front (kickdown) band- Tighten to 72 in/lbs then back off 2 7/8ths turns.



Rear (low-reverse) band- Tighten to 72 in/lbs then back off 2 turns.



I backed both bands off one extra full turn, then tightened the jam nuts.



Wrenches that used on my truck were- for the FRONT band- 3/4" wrench and a 5/16ths, 8pt. socket. REAR band- 9/16ths wrench and a 1/4" six point socket.
 
Pretty sure it's 12 but don't try 72 inch pounds with a foot pound torque wrench. They are inaccurate that low, IF they even go down that far.
 
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