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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Do You Know A Trick Or Two That Will Help The Dodge Cummins Truck Last Longer ?

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TIPS AND TRICKS ARE WELCOME

as for me MMO and power service added to the fuel

and do a oil change every 3000 and add one qt of hi detergent treatment to the oil change

with 165k on the ticker
 
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VHolloway said:
... do a oil change every 3000...

I'll second this and add: take care of issues/ repairs/ as they come up. None of this "... i'll do it next week" excuses!



(Note to self: heed yer own advice :-laf )
 
I never change my oil at three thousand miles I use rotella and let it go at least 7000 with todays oils I think the whole three thousand mile thing is overkill. I've got 105,000 on one and 185'000 on the other.
 
oil is cheap yes I like rotella t so I change it at 3000 to each his own

when my wife would take the truck in for a oil change they would charge $75. 00 for a oil change

to me thats crazy and yes we have known the guy for years but still

the hell with that

i'm doing it myself from now on

and I need to add he allways put in whatever we wanted but still I can't see $75. 00 for a oil change

I just need to find a place to take the old oil

thanks
 
VHolloway said:
... I just need to find a place to take the old oil...

Generally, any place that does oil changes as part of thier business will accept old oil at no charge. They recycle it and even get some $ for it. At least up here it is that way. We have a recycle place that accepts it as well. I wish I could find a place that accept old antifreeze!
 
amsoil all over, bypass filter, sample every 7 to 10k change filters every 10 k, top off oil, and checnk oil every 30 to 40 k depending on sample. 147K and as solid as ever.
 
Pour your old oil back in the tank. Free fuel.



I used to change my oil every 5,000 miles. Now I do it every 10,000 and I change the Frantz filter out every 2500 along with a quart of fresh oil.
 
That is a lot of good advice on making the MOTOR last longer; but you are asking the wrong question! LOL

There used to be a topic around here about "What will I do with my Cummins engine after the Dodge truck rusts away?" . . or something like that.

I run Amsoil thru the dual-remote bypass filter setup, change the filters and have the oil analyzed every now and then. The motor is fine; I just have to keep fixing stuff on the truck.
 
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There used to be a topic around here about "What will I do with my Cummins engine after the Dodge truck rusts away?" . . or something like that.



I run Amsoil thru the dual-remote bypass filter setup, change the filters and have the oil analyzed every now and then. The motor is fine; I just have to keep fixing stuff on the truck. [/QUOTE]



Does the Bypass filter flow through the rocker pannels and all four fenders or just the bumpers to stop the rig from rusting.
 
My bypass setup connects through the spin-on filter adapter.

It's the factory stock puke tube that keeps the font suspension lubed and rust-proofed. :--)
 
I agree keep it stock. mine just passing 419,000kms same vp44,no major repairs to engine. following parts replaced :apps, 4 lps, serpentine belt, starter contacts, thermostat, alternator and batteries thats it. use rotella 15-40 since first oil change, and every 6000k,fuel filter at 12000k ,fleetgard filters. on lymods are k&n filter and 4in exhaust . uses no oil between changes, never had a start problem,or drivability problem, apps was changed due to high mileage. works for me.
 
I personally think the 3k oil change thing is old news. Many are extending that by quite a bit now days as oils have gotten better along with better engine design. The lube shops will push this because it makes them more money. If you ever do oil analysis you will see that you can run the oil much longer but to each his own. If 3k changes makes you happy then fine. I personally have Amsoil in everything with 278k miles so far and all is well. I'm modified and tow a lot. I have run as much as 75k on engine oil before dumping. I'm running a bypass filter and sampling to get this kind of mileage on the oil.



The main thing is to keep all the fluids and filters in good shape including brake and power steering fluids, which get overlooked by many. Treat the truck nice and it should treat you nice in return. Warm it up nice and easy, don't hammer the throttle right away. Most engine wear happens at startup/warmup (I think the number is something like 75%). This was studied at the Colorado School of Mines.



I put grease zerks in my lower ball joints and have added grease to my front wheel bearings. I have a replacement front axle so if these parts are original to the axle they have about 335k on them. I have personally put about 208k on them so far and they are all still tight. I live in south east Utah so rust is not a problem. I'm hoping this truck will last me a long time.



One other thing I did was to put Amsoil MTF in my transfer case rather than ATF. I ran Amsoil series 3000 5w30 for many miles before the MTF came out. I don't know how much this helps but I would like to think it is better. I know this works because I have put over 200k on it since dumping the ATF.
 
MTF?
The online application guide shows ATF or ATD for the transfer case, and even that isn't clear as to which is better.

Why did you chose MTF for the transfer case?

I just ordered the Transfer Case Saver and output shaft bushing for my truck and will be changing the fluid at the same time.

I want to make sure I install the best fluid.
ATF, ATD, MTF are all expensive; the price difference between them is relatively insignificant ($4 difference between highest and lowest RETAIL cost for 1 gallon or 4 quarts).
 
ProspectorTim said:
MTF?

The online application guide shows ATF or ATD for the transfer case, and even that isn't clear as to which is better.



Why did you chose MTF for the transfer case?



I just ordered the Transfer Case Saver and output shaft bushing for my truck and will be changing the fluid at the same time.



I want to make sure I install the best fluid.

ATF, ATD, MTF are all expensive; the price difference between them is relatively insignificant ($4 difference between highest and lowest RETAIL cost for 1 gallon or 4 quarts).



The T-case is supposed to use ATF but I wanted something that would lube a little better. Many guys have run the Amsoil series 3000 5w30 motor oil with no problems as I did for a long time but when the Amsoil MTF came out I figured it would be better because it is made for gears and is still a 5w30 weight. There is nothing wrong with using the ATF I just felt like this other oil might be a little better.
 
Keep oils and lubes clean and fresh. Synthetic all the way.

Make repairs quickly and with the best parts possible.

Avoid short trips.
 
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