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Do you tow with you auto transmission?

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I would like to know how many actually tow medium to heavy loads with automatic transmissions. What type of problems have you encountered and how did you over come them. As you can see by my signature I have an auto. I have just purchased a 5th wheel that wieghs in at about 8500 lbs dry. I plan to upgrade to the DTT TC & VB and EZ late this year but I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
 
190,000 on my '94,,same transmission guts it came with. pulls my 5er just fine. my '01 pulled fine stock also. the only reason i did the DTT thingy is because of the TST thingy and the EDGE EZ thingy.
 
Auto Tow

I tow a t. t. that weights in around 7+ loaded no proplems and with a little help from the ez i hardly know its back there. ;)
 
I pull on average 8K and no problems. Use OD on the flat and slight hills. Keep the RPM up on a hard up hill pull to maintain the highest hydraulic pressure.
 
I tow

a 30' Mallard 5er with dual slides and a stand up bedroom weighs 10K+



The best investment would be the 91% DTT VB & TC especially if you have any engine modifications.



Give Bill K a call to discuss your concerns 1-604-504-4002



Driving it is Believing it :)
 
Steven, I have two different trailers and a variety of weights I tow. With the 16ft car hauler and the #1 buggy, that combo only weighs about 5500 lbs. The Cummins will pull that anywhere, anytime and any speed. Just keep the RPM's above 1700 in OD.

With the 24ft gooseneck and #1 and #2 buggies, that combo weighs in around 10,000 lbs.

Towing with this setup is a different story. The truck is very strong, and will power up any hill. Definetly keep the RPM's above 1700. Don't overwork the transmission with the RPMs that low.

Long grades in 3rd are no problem, while maintaining the posted speed limit, or slightly below. Temperatures are normal, too.



Whatever you tow, don't drive it like its unloaded. The auto will handle it, but if you have a Bombed motor, keep that in mind.
 
Steven

I tow a 10,500 lb fifth wheel, just got back from a 2800 mile round trip. I didn't experience any problems during the trip. (I had no muffler & a K&N in the stock box @ the time). I just finished installing DDII's, DD 4" exhaust, EDGE EZ, and tomorrow my DTT 91%TC and VB are being installed:D :D :D I have noticed a HUGE difference in power. Whatever you do, definately add gauges, especially Trans temp and Pyro.

HTH, good luck and happy towing.
 
Steven, the DTT tc/vb combo will help insure lots of trouble free miles of towing. While adding the tc/vb the clutch drum upgrade needs to be done along with checking and setting the clearances and making lube modifications in the front section. After this and the break-in service(a good time to fill w/synthetic), removing the one way valve in the cooler fitting, you will be good to go. Then as you add more power, you don't have to worry about the trans.

Happy towing. :D

James Northum

DTT installer-Texas
 
Steven,



I tow a 36 ft 5th wheel, triple slide, road ready it weighs close to 13,000lbs and I have no trouble towing since I had the DTT vb and tc installed. Before the install I had alot of slippage especially going uphill. By all means, get the transmission upgraded, you won't be dissappointed.



Wendell
 
Good Advice posted above all the way down the list. Install the gauges first and BOMB the transmission second. My original torque converter was almost the worst component the factory installed on my truck. A good aftermarket converter transfering the stock power might be all you need or all you want to buy at this point. I tow a 31ft. T. T. @ 8500lbs. and could not be happier with the T. C. upgrade I made. :D (DTT 91%)
 
I'm also interested in towing with my auto, but am not familiar yet with all the alphabet soup... ...

So what does DTT 91% VB&TC mean?

I'm also interested in adding an E-brake but it seems that some transmission mods are needed. ( Why is it called a "locking" torque converter anyway?):confused:
 
tow with a auto

Hey guys my . 02 is i have a 99 that is bombed auto trans with Dtt parts haven't done the convertor yet sitting on the bench too busy doing trans for everyone else have another competetors in now but my trailer without truck connected is 20k to 26k and on my second truck with a auto so these autos will take it its all what you do to them and how you drive it.



scott

massdiesel
 
Duraque

I'll try to explain what I know about your question, anyone else please correct me if I'm wrong.

DTT (Deisel Transmission Technology) 91% TC effeciency of TC (I belive the highest efficiency you can get is 93%??)

VB (modified valve body to allow higher pressures in transmission to reduce slippage)

Locking TC- TC allows slippage until a given RPM (I believe stock is around 2100 rpm) Maybe someone else can elaborate on this one as I'm not sure how to explain (or even if I'm correct:confused: )

I hope this helps.

George
 
Originally posted by Batman

Steven

I tow a 10,500 lb fifth wheel, just got back from a 2800 mile round trip. I didn't experience any problems during the trip. (I had no muffler & a K&N in the stock box @ the time). I just finished installing DDII's, DD 4" exhaust, EDGE EZ, and tomorrow my DTT 91%TC and VB are being installed:D :D :D I have noticed a HUGE difference in power. Whatever you do, definately add gauges, especially Trans temp and Pyro.

HTH, good luck and happy towing.



Hey George,



How is that Bad Boy towing now? What boost are you making with the EZ and the DDII's while towing? Do you tow on the flat in OD? On hills, what are you showing for boost and EGT with the 4" exhaust?



Thanks Pal,



Coming down LI way any time soon?



Todd
 
Todd

Right now the only thing I'm hauling is A$$. :D :D

Unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to hook up yet. We plan on going up to New Hampshire in 2 weeks. I will let you know the specifics when we get back.

Unhooked and pedal down, on hard accelelration, I'm seeing around 24PSI, and I've seen egt's hit 1200 F. Trans temp max was 180 stopped in traffic.

I noticed in your sig that you added alot since I drove her, how is she now:D

George
 
For what it's worth, we have 44,500 trouble-free miles on the same transmission behind our 96 V-10. We pull a 13,500 GVWR 5th wheel (see signature. ) I've always changed the fluid and filter and adjusted bands at 12,000 mile intervals.



I believe the V-10 is easier on the transmission because it makes its horsepower through RPM and doesn't hit the transmission with the low-RPM torque loads that the Cummins does (torque peak for the V-10 is 450 ft-lb @ 2800 RPM).



The best addition I've made is the largest B&M transmission cooler I could find installed upstream of the factory towing package radiator tank and oil-to-air transmission coolers to reduce the heat load transferred to the engine coolant. This B&M cooler has 1/2" NPT inlet and outlet ports (as many of you know, our transmission uses 1/2" lines rather than the more common 5/16" and 3/8" stuff) - I wound up plumbing the new cooler with 1/2" Aeroquip hydraulic hose and fittings.



Rusty
 
Smart move!

<font color = blue> The DTT 91% VB & TC upgrade will be the smartest move you can make. In the meantime, get them gauges on and benchmark your expectations.



A couple of months ago I travelled 6,500 miles from Western Canada to Los Angeles and then followed most of I-40 East with some detours on the way upto New York. Total all up weight was 12500 pounds with my Lance slide-in camper and believe me, you wouldn't even know it was there - the ol' CTD never missed a beat and it felt like there was loads of "useable" power in reserve.



You might also want to consider the DTT "intelligent" exhaust brake application too, I found it almost indispensable on a couple of very long steep grades through the Smoky Mountains and near Peekskill, upstate New York.
 
Lees Summit... . Huh...



One of my best customers has a huge DC in your area. I'm sure you heard of Toys R' US??? I'm down there from time to time.



Do yourself a favor and don't get caught up in the "autos are junk" talk. YES, some are indeed, and this statement held a lot of weight in years gone by. And yes, some guys on this board have had big problems. HOWEVER, it also wouldn't be fair to say that the manuals have been flawless.



Most of the talk around here lately seems to say "if you have an auto, chances are you will need an aftermarket TC and a new VB wouldn't hurt either. "



If you have a manual... ... Well, seems we are still trying to figure out what kind of clutch will stand up to the mosters some of us have created. Aside from the gear grinding topics associated with the 6 speeds and loss of 5th gear in the 5'rs.



In three weeks I'll have a DTT TC & VB turning my gears. It sounds like this is the hot setup and definitely recommended for those with autos.



And my auto has been operationally fine, I just know it will fail after the DDII's and True Torque module take over. So I'm doing everything right away.



Bottom line is that very few of us will have a transmission, regardless of type... . keep pace with the longevity of the mighty Cummins. Especially for those of us (most of us) who have "released" a few extra ponies.



I hope I didn't miss the point of your question.
 
thanks for the info and advice

I really appreciate all of the info and advice. I found myself starting to get caught up in the debates over manual vs. auto transmission and the 3. 54 vs. 4. 10 gear ratio. After spending 20K+ on a used truck, I was starting to wonder if I made a mistake. But, I realized, after reading the above posts, that I should have no problems pulling my trailer … assuming that I stay within towing guidelines for the truck. I do plan on upgrading the TC and VB in the near future.
 
Re: Smart move!

Originally posted by JohnMcIntyre

<font color = blue> The DTT 91% VB & TC upgrade will be the smartest move you can make.



You might also want to consider the DTT "intelligent" exhaust brake application too, I found it almost indispensable on a couple of very long steep grades through the Smoky Mountains and near Peekskill, upstate New York.



Ok I'll bite, What is the "intelligent" Exhaust brake application you are referring to? What does it entail and how does it work?



Thanks,



Todd
 
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