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Do you use a fuel additive ('03s only)

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Do you use fuel additives in your common rail engine?

  • Yes

    Votes: 110 55.8%
  • No

    Votes: 82 41.6%
  • Additive? What's an additive?

    Votes: 5 2.5%

  • Total voters
    197

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rbattelle

TDR MEMBER
There seems to be a small debate going on over whether it's appropriate or necessary to use a fuel additive in the '03/'04 common rail trucks. For every person who says "absolutely", there's someone else who says "no way". For every story about additives making a huge difference in injector/pump life, there's another about Dodge voiding fuel system warranties due to additives.



Just wanted to see what the majority is doing. For those using additives, what kind and where do you get it?
 
After reading the post about water in fuel and no warranty coverage(9K!!!) all of us better think about additives.



I use Amsoil Diesel Fuel Additive Concentrate every fill up since tank 3!
 
Do not use fuel additives

It is written in the owners manual to "not" use fuel additives. I would suspect that this is in there for a reason, good or bad!
 
Fuel additive

Every tank, ether Amalgamated or Schaeffer's premium 2000. When I went to pickup the pickup(?) I carried my bottle with me. Poured it in and fired that mother up!
 
Now I use Stanadyne Performance Formula and I get it from here

http://www.dieselpage.com/ been using it since 91. There for a while I was using Amsoil additive but when I got the VW I went back to Stanadyne. On the VW I see a slight increase in mpg (50+)using it. :D
 
Not saying right or wrong, just an FYI for those of you without the service manual. This quote is straight out of the 03 service manual on page 0-2 Lubrication and Maintenance:



Diesel fuel is seldom completely free of water. To

prevent fuel system trouble, including fuel line freezing

in winter, drain the accumulated water from the

fuel/water separator using the fuel/water separator

drain provided. . If you buy good-quality fuel and follow the cold-weather advice above, fuel conditioners should not be required in your vehicle. If available in

your area, a high cetane “premium” diesel fuel may

offer improved cold starting and warm-up performance.
 
Call any shop thats certified to rebuild Bosch pumps and injectors and they will tell to use an additive. Many say any additive is good for reducing wear.
 
Re: Do not use fuel additives

Originally posted by badams1

It is written in the owners manual to "not" use fuel additives. I would suspect that this is in there for a reason, good or bad!



That's there so the service dept. can soak your insurance company when "condensation" ruins everything. :rolleyes: :mad:
 
You guys may think you're doing yourselves a favor money wise by using powerservice because it appears cheap, and is available at wal-mart. However, powerservice is 77% #2 diesel fuel. Ever wonder why you have to dose so many more ounces compared to stanadyne? Stanadyne's base is a lube oil, not diesel fuel... and is more concentrated. The cost per treated gallon works out to be cheaper using stanadyne. I also have noticed no difference in performance or mpg using PS, and during very cold weather(under 20F) I have noticed the stanadyne makes startups smoother and quieter.



All diesel fuel contains some amount of water. I've done 4 fuel analyses on different stations, and all have between 70-100 ppm water per gal. The big question is how do you choose to deal with it? There are two schools of thought. To EMULSIFY or DEMULSIFY, that is the question. Some folks truly believe that their water separators are as effective as advertised. If this is the case, use a demulsifier, and the free water that is separated should be collected. However, fuel testing before and after the filter has shown clearly that they are not anywhere near 90+% effective as they would like us to believe, in removing water. Vibrations (especially diesels) cause water in fuel to become emulsified/suspended in the fuel. While the separator may stop some, it's certainly not stopping all. A simple test to prove this is, pour some diesel in a glass, and a bit of water GENTLY. You will see the water settle to the bottom. NOw shake it... you'll see the water mix up into little droplets etc. This leads us to the logical step of emulsifying. Emulsifying additives cause all water to be kept in emulsion, and in very very tiny droplets... so small that they effectively pass right through the fuel filter, and the whole engine without doing damage. It's your call.



Primrose makes about the best emulsifying additive. They just recently started selling to the public, after providing 90+% of the US military's diesel fuel additives for the last 10 years. They are pretty short on marketing etc, as they generally deal with government sources, but the stuff is great. Highly potent cetane booster, lubricity additive, and emulsifier. Extremely concentrated, one 12 ounce bottle treats 187 gallons, and the price is cheap. That works out to just 2. 7 cents per treated gallon :eek: :D I personally have used primrose powermaster 405 (409 for winter) for the last year with great results. Also a lab and lubrication engineer that I correspond with has tested before and after primrose treatment on an (expensive) cetane engine, and showed a gain of 5. 2 cetane with the listed treatment ratio.



Most people are happy with whatever additive they use because it's not often one gets a tank with large amounts of water. For the most part, fuel with water ppm under 130-140ppm will stay in suspension. If you DO happen to get that bad tank, or are vandalized... . it's your call... . I prefer to know that no matter what, the water in my tank will stay emulsified... . also don't like the idea of a pool of water at the bottom of my tank with a demulsifying additive.



That was a lot of typing, I hope you guys appreciate it, LOL~!
 
Originally posted by JohnSS

If you buy good-quality fuel and follow the cold-weather advice above, fuel conditioners should not be required in your vehicle



John, I take that quote from the Op's Manual to indicate that with proper precautions you shouldn't have to rely on an additive to keep you out of trouble in could weather. It doesn't imply you shouldn't use an additive.



My neighbor has been a mechanic at Tri-City Injection Service for 25 years and his opinion is Stanadyne is a better choice than Power Service especially for the higher-perfomance injection systems on the 24-valve engines. He says PS is good for inline injection pumps (12-valves) but wasn't designed with precision close-tolerance injection systems in mind.



After trying several different varieties of additives on my 2001 I settled on Amalgamated since I got the best results with it. www.amalgamatedinc.com



Vaughn
 
Pitbull, I'm not sure on rotella DFA, never used it. Glad I could shed some light on the issue.



Powerservice is crap, if you're going to demulsify, use stanadyne.



I dont want to post the link, but if people want info on primrose email me, and I'll let you know where I buy mine.



For the record, I'm in the residential decorative lighting industry. . no affiliation whatsoever with anything in the diesel industry. . these facts presented above are simply results of years of tedious research in this area.
 
Additives---

Normally I don't believe in additives, either for fuel or engine oil. BUT!, In my '01 truck, ran Power Service for a while, then switched to DFA because it was available in case lots at Sams. Made by Shell Rotella, can't be all bad. Case in point: Shooter, (Albuquerque NM), didn't and won't use a fuel conditioner, buys his fuel wherever he can. I use some kind of conditioner every fillup, (always fuel up at a T/A). He has lost a lift pump every 15k miles on his 2k truck, even with using the latest Cummins part number! I have not lost ONE, lift pump, ever, have a fuel pressure gauge, pressure never compromised.

Have a close friend in SoCal, who runs 7 Kenworth transfer dumps, swears by fuel additives due to the reduction in sulphur in the fuel, thereby reducing the inherent lubricating ability of diesel fuel. IMHO, diesel fuel is being re-formulated as we speak, and it's getting drier all the time. all over the nation. The proof is in the pudding, those not using a fuel additive are losing lift pumps, and worse, main pumps, while those of us using a fuel additive, are not. Again, I'm NOT a fan of additives, but in this case, I'm gonna keep using a fuel additive. Ron
 
The facts simply are, no two tanks of fuel you fill are going to be the same. Contaminated batches aren't one in a million, and neither are station managers who skimp on costs by not changing pump filters, or better yet, just gutting the insides out and never changing them... The only way I would ever fill up without using additives, would be if I personally know the station manager/owner, have verified their filter AND tank maintenance procedures, and have had their fuel routinely tested by a lab. Otherwise additives are your only 'insurance'. Sure many don't use them and get by... they've just been lucky enough not to get bad tanks. I urge you guys to spend $50 and do a fuel analysis on your regular filling station. You may not be getting quite what you think you are. ;) If anyone wants to email me, I'll send you copies of the 4 fuel analysis reports I've done on my local stations. Results are mindblowing. Myths broken. The old school thought of 'its a busy station, or a truck stop, it must have good fuel' is so far from the truth it's ridiculous... and I have the numbers to prove it. So folks, go on filling up blindly if you like. . and take your chances..... hey, they're only lift pumps and injectors right? This becomes 10 times more critical with 3rd gen engines than EVER before. The higher the pressure of the injection system, the more damage it stands to take due to contaminants, particulates, and water.
 
LightmanE300, good information looks like you've done your research. I've switched from the dirty high volume truck stop to the local Conoco that has been selling diesel to all of the locals and farmers for years. What made me switch is the the station owner and one of his employees now drive 3rd generation CTD's and I have talked to them about their diesel being clean. They said they have never had a problem and they would not put contaminated diesel in their own trucks. Figure if the use it in their 3rd gens it should work in my 2nd gen.
 
Clean is a relatively loosely used word. I highly suggest getting a fuel test kit, and KNOWING what you're putting in your tank. Sure is fun finding out. For example... the local texaco 'premium' diesel station gets mild to medium diesel traffic. It had 3 million particles of dirt per gallon. While that may seem crazy, I tested my local Amoco truck stop, with TONS AND TONS of diesel traffic... I've never driven by and not seen someone filling up a truck of some sort there... . well the Amoco, which would lead people who subscribe to the old school of thought (high volume=good fuel) had 21 MILLION particles of dirt per gallon!!!!!:--) As I've said... fuel is not always what you suspect... . only one way to find out... . Not testing is kinda like trying to gauge your oil's quality by looking at how black it is, rather than oil analysis..... ;)
 
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