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Does my rear sag too low?

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Is the rear too low?

  • yes, raise it up!

    Votes: 20 40.8%
  • no, level is good

    Votes: 24 49.0%
  • who cares???

    Votes: 5 10.2%

  • Total voters
    49
  • Poll closed .

KDP failure poll

How many?

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Beast, Great looking setup. I've got the same concerns on deciding to go with the Skyjacker 2. 5 or the 4. 5 lift. I've got the 2" Rancho coil spacers on my 96 (360) work truck and don't like the "nose up" look it has at certain angles (. . and maybe from the rear springs settling over time). I believe it hurts performance as well. One reason our trucks (in fact ALL vehicles) come from the factory "raked" is to help with the aerodynamics. Diesel motors especially are "wind sensitive" as we already know. A decent head wind decreases mileage (not power) considerably. Keeping the rake will make for a better ride and mileage in my opinion.



I want the lowest lift available to run 315's and have NO rubbing anywhere; and still keep the "rake" of the stock truck as close as possible. If I go with the 2. 5", I might have to go with an "add-a-leaf" to raise the rear, which will make for an even harsher ride. If I go with the 4. 5" like you did, I'm not sure if that's enough "rake" for me, but that kit comes with replacement rear springs anyway, right? So, it'd be hard to increase the rear height without going to another add-a-leaf along with the new packs, or get a taller custom set made.



How about some performance input?:

-How's your power with the 3. 55's and 37" tires? Do you need taller gears?

-What happened to your mileage?

-Do you have any rubbing ANYwhere with this set up? I've heard you'll rub "no matter what" if you keep the stock wheels (which I'd like to do) because of their offset. Did you try the stockers first?

-What's the offset of the 17" wheels you have? And, do they have a "bead lock" ridge on them like the 15's and 16's? That's the reason I don't want to go back to 16. 5's because of no bead ridge.

-How does it handle now? Did you replace the trackbar at the same time?



Let me know what you decide.
 
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Does Your rear sag low,,

Does it wobble too and fro,,

Can you tie it in a knot?. .

Can you tie it in a bow?. .

Can you throw it over your shoulder like a Continiental soldier. .

Doer your Rear sag low...



MerrickNJr



P. S. Could use a little lift...
 
rear dragging?

If you aren't hauling a load I think you are ok if you are within 1/8" from level empty. If you are loaded and within that distance that is still good. If you are within 1/8th inch like you say and empty, then your headlights will be looking up at the moon when you load the darn thing. BAD BAD Bad:( There was a TSB that called for replacing rear springs on the trucks that sagged in the rear. ) You have to ask for it since it is not a recall. They replaced the rear springs on my 2500 with springs and shocks for a 3500 for $50. 00:D :D :D You need to keep in mind that altering the height will change the dyanamics of the steering and handling. If you are too low in the rear it affects the caster(?) and can make the vehicle follow deformities in the road or act like it is towed out. :eek:
 
Re: Does my rear end sag too low?

Originally posted by KKaiser

Shoot, I thought this was a thread about my wife!

KK



My very first thought was, the fact that last time I answered a question like this, I didnt get any for a month.
 
rear

Any still living man knows you NEVER use the words sag or rear in the same sentence as wife... . so how do you get it in the garage?? Your truck looks like mines brother (bigger bro with lift)/:D
 
reply to some replies...

Walker- The Skyjacker lift comes with lots of options, I chose the rear springs instead of blocks and add-a-leafs for the better ride. I have a 1" block from the original spring pack (between leaf & overload pack) or I may replace the original block with a 1" taller block (and probably add traction bars anyway).

Power- I effectively changed the final ratio approx 17% (according to the GPS), but I can still start in 2nd gear without bogging. I will probably go to 4. 10 before this is all over, but EZ and injectors are soon on the list, so power should come up a good bit.

Mileage- too soon to tell, I don't put too many miles on the truck. I started tracking with the last fill up, so now that I know the correction factor I can get good numbers from the calculations.

Rubbing- I haven't had a whole lot of articulation in the suspension, but I get ZERO rub at any position. The wheels are 17x8 with a 4 7/8 back spacing. Yes, they have the same bead seating ridge as a 15 or 16, NOT like the 16. 5. I didn't try the stock wheels, I wanted bigger than 35" tires and I've seen several trucks with 35 or 36 tires on stock wheels and they are too far under the truck for my liking.

Handling- Handles great! The suspension and large sidewall tire (lower pressure too) make for a MUCH better ride in the daily grind. WAYYY better on potholes and speed bumps. No track bar change yet, but a DT is in the plans. :)
 
more replies--sorry for the length!

dseabaugh- I don't haul much, and rarely pull a trailer. So far, in about 1000 miles with the lift, my tire wear is very even (after a bit of playing with the tire pressures), and the truck doesn't follow rain grooves and road deformities anywhere near as much as it did with the michelins.



Snoking- GARAGE??!!?? Her majesty's Acura (and my Jeep project) have the honors of the garage, so Ram is an outside pet only. (Until the next house with a 2500 sq ft garage with RV 12ft door... :D :rolleyes: )



TO ALL- My master plan was to put the lift/wheels/tires on first so I could get used to being so underpowered, then add the gauges, EZ, injectors, clutch, gears later so it feels like a hot rod! Reverse psychology and mental manipulation on myself!!! (Is that legal in this state?)



Thanks for the input, I sure appreciate the shared knowledge and resources you all provide!
 
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