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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Does this sound like a decent setup?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Powersteering & Vacuum Pump

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) TC LOCK up normal operation?

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Hey guys, I make a short list here on things I'd want to do if I pick up this 94' 12v 5 speed I'm looking at on friday. Please help with any possible improvements or add ons, comments and opinions welcome and appreciated... . thanks!



1. Gauges, duh LOL

2. Con O clutch

3. 3kGSK

4. AFC kit

5. #5 plate

6. 300 injectors

7. 191 delivery valves

8. Pump timing to 17ish degrees?

9. HTT Super 40 turbo

10. ATS manifold



Now my bro has an 02' 24v 6 speed with 400 RWHP and spools his super 40 faster than the stocker on a stock setup, so I figure if I go with the super 40 at this power level it should spool about like the stocker on this 175 horse 12v now right? That is acceptable lag to me.

Does this sound like a good setup? Any suggestions? Oh, I don't want to go with the 370 injectors because of the bad spray angle causing higher EGTs and the coal roll... . although I won't mind smoke and just don't think I'd like it to smoke at an idle though LOL.
 
You would be pretty close to my setup if You went with the 370's. I dont have d/v's, If anything, I hear those make the coal and EGT's Roll.

Its a Nice setup though. Im real pleased with how my truck rips now, Though If I were to come across a 215 pump cheap, I probably wouldnt shy away from it.....

I should have some dyno #'s in the spring but assume Im around the 400? mark now. Anyone willing to comment on that guestimate is welcome to :cool:
 
PS My 370's dont haze at idle at all. Maybe on a cold day until its warm but after that its clean. Seems like thats an attribute of the 215 pump guys... .

Jim
 
i would go with at least a 13" ofe clutch. mine felt just like a stocker. i would also think about the 4k gsk. i think the smaller pumps benifit from the 4k kit more than the bigger ones. get the 370s. right now, i have a very light have at idle and not much smoke at all on acceleration. of coarse the afc screw is way back. i would think if you eant a small set of injectors, look for a used set of 215's. i sold mine for like 100 bucks. its seems as though the s300 based turbos are the turbo of choice right now. ive never drivin a truck with a 40 but i hear theyre not nearly as durable as the htb2's of the phat shafts.



lets not forget that good ol KDP. that should be first but you probably know that.
 
Signal73 said:
PS My 370's dont haze at idle at all. Maybe on a cold day until its warm but after that its clean. Seems like thats an attribute of the 215 pump guys... .

Jim

:D i dont think the DV's helped either. they did help them run smoother though.



your list looks good. id try and go a step up on everything. :D more fun



id grind the stock plate to a 100. take that money and spend it elsewhere
 
If you are looking at max hp, skip on the 300's. They are a great upgrade from your stockers, but will leaving wishing you bought the 370's in the first place. How do I know this? :-laf
 
Dual EE said:
If you are looking at max hp, skip on the 300's. They are a great upgrade from your stockers, but will leaving wishing you bought the 370's in the first place. How do I know this? :-laf



Nah, not looking for max power or else I'd need a better clutch too. My bro has the Luk cerametallic in his 02' ETH and loves it, I thought about going that route but it's a thousand dollars for the conversion kit VS 650 for the con-O and the con-O will hold for my needs so I'm not gonna bother spending the extra dough.

I may not even do the delivery valves anyway, I'll only do them if I want a little extra power after all the other mods are done.



BTighe- About the turbo, well the super 40's haven't been out long enough to test for durability... they have a bad rep in the first place due to the regular 40 being a flop but the super 40 is way better balanced and has a different compressor wheel.
 
Signal73 said:
You would be pretty close to my setup if You went with the 370's. I dont have d/v's, If anything, I hear those make the coal and EGT's Roll.





Wow you are really close to exactly what I want! How's that clutch holding up?

Oh I also forgot the exhaust, it will be a 4'' system straight through.



Whats this talk about grinding the plate to a 100? Whats that mean and how do I do it? Is there a write up about it anywhere?
 
Take a look in the Pic gallery in my sig. I have a Pic of my 100 in there. It was made out of a stock plate. Northslope from dieseltruckresource.com did it for me and has done tons of others also. So far my clutch is holding fine no slipping. I dont abuse it alot, usually let it out easy then roll hard into the pedal just to make sure it stays that way. I dont tow more then 3Klbs worth of ATV's either so your mileage may vary lol.

Jim
 
Cool, thanks.



Also, whats a #0 plate? There's one for sale pretty cheap and was thinking about getting it if it will be good. TST's site inly goes to the #5 plate, so I'm assuming the 0 is even more power?
 
where my 100 has a taper on the bottom, picture it going straight down. Basically a flat plate. No bottom end defueling. 0 is alot of fuel early on...
 
mhuggler said:
Gotcha, but why is yours called a 100 then? Sorry I'm a bit of a noob to 12 valves, been dealing with 24's for 3 years LOL.

From what I have been told its called a 100 is because its like a 10 but with no top end defueling therefore 10'0'
 
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