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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Does Your Oil Look this nasty ???

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Yeah mine's the same. Looks like driveway sealer when it comes out :eek: I change mine every 5000.



My drainplug was leaking, and I put a new one. Well after I pour 2 gallons in, I notice the new one is leaking too... . so I drain the new oil out (back in the jugs) and the new oil is almost as dirty as the old oil. :eek: I dunno!



That webpage has awesome prices. I paid around $20 for a Wix oil filter and $26 for a Racor fuel filter.
 
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DM if you wanted cleaner oil you could lose the Bosio injectors and Comp :-laf



You might run syn with a bypass filter, but jwilliams is right. . . syn itself isn't going to make it stay cleaner looking.



Vaughn
 
It's a Diesel!!!! you could change it every 500 mile's still come out looking like coal



It looks the same as the oil that come's out the big one's too just 7 more gallons give or take one.
 
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GOLLY Chad, if you used one of THESE:



#ad




You oil after 7000 miles COULD look like THIS:



#ad




And THAT is plain 'ol Delo 400 15/40...





;) :-laf Oo.
 
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For some reason my CTDs have always kept the oil pretty clean for a long time. . . my '01 with DD2s & vA box, '03 with Bullydog box and my '96 with Bosch 300s & #11 plate. Maybe it's because I don't use the power as much as some. It usually takes at least 4k miles before mine starts looking like Gary's dipstick.



Vaughn
 
Gary You dont know how many times I read that frantz thread of yours ,,,



Im just not comfortable filtering with TP yet ,,, that just seems wrong . . LOL



So is it soot from too much fuel that turnes it black . .



It really wasnt as much as the color I was worried about ... its was the consistency its almost like water ,,,how can that be lubricating ??? If synthetics are the same maybe I should drop down to a heavier oil ??



DM
 
DieselMinded said:
Gary You dont know how many times I read that frantz thread of yours ,,,



Im just not comfortable filtering with TP yet ,,, that just seems wrong . . LOL



So is it soot from too much fuel that turnes it black . .



It really wasnt as much as the color I was worried about ... its was the consistency its almost like water ,,,how can that be lubricating ??? If synthetics are the same maybe I should drop down to a heavier oil ??



DM



One big stumbling block for those leery of TP oil filtering, is the fact they tend to view that TP as weak individual sheets, rather than a tightly compressed filter CARTRIDGE that the oil must pass thru length-wise as contaminents are removed.



The other issue seems to be the fear of a "paper" element for filtering, as the fearful individual sorta forgets the STOCK fuel, oil and air filters are ALSO (GASP!) P-A-P-E-R! :-laf :-laf



But, yes, the soot content IS what contributes most heavily to the darkness of the oil, and THAT often is caused by heavier than optimum fueling. Another contributing factor, is short-haul, stop and go driving.



Guys driving their trucks longer distances at steady freeway speeds have a LOT better chance of keeping their oil clean than short haul, local use.



Fact is, in our new location, the truck gets driven FAR less than it did down in the Sacramento valley - and MY oil gets dirty lots faster than it used to now with my far shorter and slower drives...



But regardless, long haul or short haul, that bypass filter, ANY bypass filter, *will* greatly extend the purity and useful life of your oil!
 
Thanks gary I will admit I am one of these people mostly due to the fact that Ive seen a Wet roll of TP it was a mess ,,,and even tho is may not do that or will not in the fratz housing it would still be burned in my mind of it braking up ... Ive seen the photos of your used Ones and it looks to be compacted well but with my luck I would open my houcing to change my filter and the TP would be gone ... LOL



would better filtration decrease what seems to be viscositity brake down of the Oil ?



DM
 
DieselMinded said:
Thanks gary I will admit I am one of these people mostly due to the fact that Ive seen a Wet roll of TP it was a mess ,,,and even tho is may not do that or will not in the fratz housing it would still be burned in my mind of it braking up ... Ive seen the photos of your used Ones and it looks to be compacted well but with my luck I would open my houcing to change my filter and the TP would be gone ... LOL



would better filtration decrease what seems to be viscositity brake down of the Oil ?



DM



Well, for sure, the TP in the Frantz - or ANY stock paper element for that matter won't stand up to water!



Here's what my Frantz TP element looks like after 2500 miles or so use - probably not like a water-soaked one you commented on above:



#ad




The typical structure of any reasonable paper used for oil filtration is NOT weakened or adversely affected by being exposed to oil - sometimes, depending on paper type, exposure to oil will actually STRENGTHEN the paper!



I seriously doubt ANY reasonable filter will affect the dilution breakdown of an engine's oil - IF you are having fuel dilution issues, you need to address that long before any consideration of aftermarket bypass oil filters!



And the best way to isolate suspected fuel dilution or other contamination issues, is with oil analysis.
 
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OK Guys, A Question! I know a guy with a Chevy Diesel who puts a couple of gallons of diesel in after draining the old out and then lets it idol for 5 minutes before he drops it and changes the filter. His oil stays real clean in between oil changes this way. And he has 150K+ on his truck. Any one try this. I am not going to be the first on a CTD. But have you ;)
 
RAJohnson said:
OK Guys, A Question! I know a guy with a Chevy Diesel who puts a couple of gallons of diesel in after draining the old out and then lets it idol for 5 minutes before he drops it and changes the filter. His oil stays real clean in between oil changes this way. And he has 150K+ on his truck. Any one try this. I am not going to be the first on a CTD. But have you ;)



I've heard of that - and knew one person who did it back in the old flathead Ford V8 days - but like you, I wouldn't wanna do it to MY truck... . Sure, the innards of the engine MIGHT stay clean - and the oil too - but I seriously fear what it would be doing to the wear surfaces of the engine.



Which DOES bring up a good oil discussion point - does the apparent visual cleanliness of the inside of an engine or the lube oil by itself REALLY mean the oil used is a superior one - or are there OTHER serious qualities of an oil that far outweigh the "clean issue" alone?



HMmmmmmm? :D :D
 
We changet he oil in our 02' every 8K miles. We also have the oil tested every drain interval. It seems no matter how black the oil is(or how "thin" it appears) the test always come back good. Viscosity results range from mid to high of scale. F Soot is . 05 or less. And this is using Pennzoil 15w-40 :eek: The boss likes Pennzoil :confused:



I used to use Dyno oil in my Turbo Omni(wanna be racecar) and the oil used to come out clean every 1000-1500 miles. When I switched to Synethic(Mobil 1) it would come out black as could be at the same interval. When I opened up the motor, I did notice that the surfaces inside were much cleaner after using syn than compared to dyno oil. Only conclusion I could come up with was that syn oil cleans better than dyno oil. So, I don't really think switching to syn oil will keep the oil looking cleaner longer.
 
Which DOES bring up a good oil discussion point - does the apparent visual cleanliness of the inside of an engine or the lube oil by itself REALLY mean the oil used is a superior one - or are there OTHER serious qualities of an oil that far outweigh the "clean issue" alone?



Thats It !!



Im worried about viscosity break down because my oil looks like black water draining out ,,,, That cannot be lubricating well ... ... or can it be ?



Can it be based on the visable apperance ?



Good One Gary



DM
 
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