Dometic not working...

[DLausche]

Also posted in IRV2.com forums... .....



Just picked up the TT today and gave everything a try-out. It appears as though the fridge no longer works correctly. It is a 1986 Dometic RM2600 model. Electric hasn't worked for years. Have always used on gas with no problems. Today, cleaned out burner and it lights/burns perfect, but no cooling. Makes a very unusual "boiling" sound both outside and inside. Shut off after about 2 hours with no cooling.



What should I try? Can this be repaired cost effectively, or should I shop around for a new unit to replace this one? Thanks

for your thoughts.

-Deon

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Sounds like either a clogged internal control valve, or low on refrigerent...

 

[HBarlow]

Deon:



Sounds like a blocked cooling tube. I have read but don't remember why this occurs in older refrigerator units. The fix is usually to install a cooling unit which will cost somewhere in the range of $600. Others will disagree but in my opinion, when an older unit like yours fails, it is usually not cost effective to begin replacing parts. My solution would be to buy a new refrigerator which sell for approximately $1000 at Camping World.



Your refrigerator probably needs an electric heating element as well or possibly a circuit board. Repairing it will cost very close to the price of a new one and a repaired unit won't be as reliable or last as long as a new one.



Harvey

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

A common cause of refrigerant blockage in older units, is that if the refrigerator is operated out of level for any significant length of time, all the refrigerant is captured and retained up in the cooling coils, leaving the heated bulb to run dry, and eventually start flaking off copper particles as the metal bulb deteriorates from overheating. THEN, after level is restored, small loose contaminent particles from the overheated dry bulb stop up the capillary tube, rendering the fridge useless... some try to get the blockage loose by removing the fridge and turning it upside-down for a few hours - but that might be only a temporary fix at best, if the particles remain and again plug up the capillary tube...

 

[RonWeiss]

Sorry, but it sounds like your coolant assembly is shot, usually doesn't pay to fix, better to get new unit.



Ron W.

 

[jrobinson2]

These sites have a lot of information about RV refrigerator repair and trouble shooting:

RV mobile

Gas refrigeration

Jared

 

[Prairie Dog]

I had My RM2500's cooling unit rebuilt two years ago for $350 but I suspect I would have been better off w/ a whole new fridge. They keep making improvements and I hear the life of a rebuild is only a few years.

 

[Bickford]

Hello,



Just one note about your old Dometic:



Please be carefull with the older units. The orignal 3 way Dometic in my 1990 32' Fleetwood Southwind had sat for over two years before I bought it. It looked fine and the burner started fine. But after a short while, I opened the frig door to check on the temp. And was all but knocked down from the leaking Ammonia gas.



If you have trouble starting yours, open a few windows for some fresh air just in case. I was able to replace mine with a new Nor Cold unit from on line with free shipping. It turned out to be $700. 00 less the the local RV dealer was asking. The other RV that I owned a 1986 26' Holiday Rambler's Dometic also gave out. I had that unit rebuilt two different times, before it worked right.



Take Care, God Bless

 

[DLausche]

fix vs new...

Thanks for the feedback guys/gals. It appears as though the cooling unit is shot - probably leaked out over the winter.



The dilema now is whether to replace the cooling unit or the whole fridge. Dometic doesn't mfg a new unit the same height (RM2620=2. 5" shorter or RM2652=1. 75" higher) and I'd rather not adapt to a different size opening inside. So, I'm thinking of a rebuilt or new cooling unit. Haven't found a NEW cooling unit supply place online yet. The rebuild process from this company NUCOLD appears to me to be sound and I think I'm leaning towards this Co. I am confident I can do this swap out myself and save some $.



Another question re old fridge model vs new one: Am I right in the thinking that thew new fridges use/require constant 12v while in operation? I think I read this somewhere and I like the fact that my older model will work just fine on gas without 12v power. If I'm right, more reason in my mind to repair my existing fridge. Let me know if i'm incorrect here.



Thanks again for your feedback. Are there a lot of cooling unit rebuld shops? Any in particular to seek out or any that I should avoid?



-Deon

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

At a minimum, the newer units will need 12v for activating the fridge ignitor circuit... And don't overlook the possibility of finding a serviceable used unit at one of the many RV salvage yards - a crapshoot when buying used, but might get a good one that will fit at low cost and buy you a few more years use...

 

[RonWeiss]

Deon,



Not all units require 12v DC, many have a Piezo ignitor to get things going when on gas mode.



Ron W.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Not that familiar with all the newer units, but the Dometic in my '88 Kit 5er is a gas/electric model (110 vac), and has a feature where if the flame goes out while on gas, it will automatically re-ignite - pretty sure that is done via a 12v powered control circuit - I thought the piezo setups were pretty much all manually operated?



I suppose I could disconnect the 12 volts from mine and test to see if the auto-light still works...

 

[JNailor]

I had the same problem with mine in my 88 Airstream some years ago. I installed a new cooling unit. It was an easy job to do at home. Once you get the old unit out, you will see that all that is left is a foam box and a thermostat. Getting the old unit out can require some effort and a 2x4 to pry with. It's foamed in place in a recess in the back of the box. The new one will drop right in. When you clean the burner, be sure to clean the gas jet with alcohol or carb cleaner. Even a good looking flame won't cool good if it doesn't have enough btu's.

 

[DLausche]

An update on my non-working fridge:



I have decided on ordering a rebuilt cooling unit from NUCOLD. I was concerned regarding the apparent problems people have with rebuilt units, but this place seems to have it together. They replace the *entire* evaporator section with new tubing rather than trying to patch just the leaking portion. They actually mfg the evaporator sections that other rebuild shops use too. Warranty is 2 years and they have one for my RM2600 fridge in stock. It is supposed to ship tomorrow (Friday) after they unit test the one they are going to send. Price and shipping cost seem very reasonable.



I'd like to give a thanks to all that offered their insight on this. I will update this thread with the results once I have the new unit installed.



-Deon