Door sound proofing.... Wow

[Mobius1]

I looked in Home Depot and could not find the stuff that R. Taylor used. This seemed like a very good idea and this was going to be my next mod.



Let us know how it works Navydood!

 

[NavyDood]

Well, I am done and it did make a difference. I started with the doors. I did not do inside on the outer skin. All i did was the inside surface. As for the back, I did the back wall and the whole area under the rear seat. I double layered everything I did to achieve 40mil thick. I used 2 1/2 rolls of the Butyl flashing I posted about two posts above. Cost... $60. It is a bit of work, but the results are worth it IMO. No asphalt smell either.

These are the only pics I took.

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[Prairie Dog]

It seems like a lot of road noise comes from the back seat area. How much work is it to get to the bare back wall and how effective is it to cover that area since the vents back there have to remain unrestricted?

 

[DogramTD]

I used the same stuff from Home Depot that RTaylor used under my hood today... not a good Idea. After a quick 5 minute drive the engine heat had it falling off. I even prepped the surface w/alcohol and rolled the material in good... Guess Ill be spending another day taking it off and cleaning it.

 

[NavyDood]

It seems like a lot of road noise comes from the back seat area. How much work is it to get to the bare back wall and how effective is it to cover that area since the vents back there have to remain unrestricted?

You have to remove the rear seat, floor seat belts, side seat belts, four side panels, three child restraint hooks, back insulation, and floor carpet. 18 bolts (5 are Torx) and 15 of those plastic push pin retainer thingies.

 

[seafish]

Hey NavyDood, Nice job!!!

just wondering how much that roll of Butyl rubber weighed in comaprison to a more or less same size roll of the asphalt/foil roll.
Any estimates... heavier, lighter, more or less the same??

The reason that I am asking is that weight is related to density and density is related to the ability of a material to stop sound vibrations from passing through.
Of course, other factors also come into play, but material density and then contact isolation features are 2 of the best ways to stop sound.

 

[Kry226]

Might want to look at mass loaded vinyl. It weighs around 1 lb per square foot and did a incredible job hushing my truck.



Remember, there are two types of noise: vibration and airborne noise. Use a foil backed butyl mat to dampen vibrations and then the mass loaded vinyl to block airborne noise.

 

[seafish]

Might want to look at mass loaded vinyl. It weighs around 1 lb per square foot and did a incredible job hushing my truck.



Remember, there are two types of noise: vibration and airborne noise. Use a foil backed butyl mat to dampen vibrations and then the mass loaded vinyl to block airborne noise.

What is mass loaded vinyl?? Where do you get it? It sounds like a combination of what you are suggesting would be ideal, unless it costs as much as the dyna mat... :-laf

 

[Kry226]

What is mass loaded vinyl?? Where do you get it? It sounds like a combination of what you are suggesting would be ideal, unless it costs as much as the dyna mat... :-laf

This is not being posted in order to hijack the OP's thread. Just answering the question. But there are mountains of info at the following site.



Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

 

[seafish]

This is not being posted in order to hijack the OP's thread. Just answering the question. But there are mountains of info at the following site.



Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

Wow... that's a great site... loads of info, AND it confirms what I already know about sound dampening in homebuilding applications. Thanks!!

 

[surfbeetle]

I used the same stuff from Home Depot that RTaylor used under my hood today... not a good Idea. After a quick 5 minute drive the engine heat had it falling off. I even prepped the surface w/alcohol and rolled the material in good... Guess Ill be spending another day taking it off and cleaning it.

So I obviously don't want to have this happen, what is the best stuff to use on the underside of the hood? Also, instead of the Blankets on the engine, has anyone thought of or tried sticking some soundproofing material on the oil pan or valve covers?



I think that either one of the Home Depot items mentioned earlier would be good for the doors and interior. I plan to do the firewall as much as I can as well as the entire floor under the carpet. After 15 years of this truck, I'm sick of the noise especially when pulling the fifth wheel.

 

[Kry226]

Do a search. I know there was a member once upon a time who did a lot of soundproofing with lead sheeting, and I think that included the oil pan, etc. This was probably four or five years ago. Maybe someone can find that thread, but it was a long, ongoing post.

 

[Nick5.9]

Well, It's almost been a year now and I am still very pleased with my low cost results. There is no smell what so ever as it was gone after the first month, We've had 3 days of 100 to 106 degree weather, no asphalt smell or goo dripping off the bottoms of the doors. I took a door panel off to inspect it, No sagging, running or melting. It's still exactly where it was stuck on.

R.Taylor, Nice write up. Its been a good few years now. How is the material you used holding up? Did you ever have any issues caused by heat?

 

[seafish]

Anyone who wants to do this sort of soundproofing to their truck should DEFINITELY check out this the how-to and product explanations at this link.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

While NOT cheap, the site sells ONLY the highest quality materials and using his techniques CAN actually save money by using the right amount the right materials in the right places and also by and doing the job right the first time. Don also gives great customer service as well and carefully packages the materials.

 

[Sled Dog]

Great write-up, my wife is after me for loosing the cat & muffler.
Maybe this will help. Thanks.

 

[BarryG]

Seafish I agree. I have emailed with him before. I did my truck over 10 years ago with brown bread and dynamat. While I did notice a very nice difference with my original endeavor I ran across his site a couple years ago I could see how the "whole" approach would be significantly better and have seriously considered adding some of his stuff to my truck as well as my other car which is also loud (little econobox Honda Fit). Just haven't done it yet.

 

[seafish]

When I did only my doors using his approach and materials, the results were VERY noticeable. This winter I am replacing my 3rd gen seats with some 4th gen leather and I will do the entire interior, including some CLD and 3m thinsulate under the headliner, as my lumber rack does make some noise/vibrations that I owould like to eliminate. What is nice about sounddeadensershowdown is that he HAS done years of research on what works, has modified his materials and teqniques to reflect what he has learned, a nd only sells top quality stuff, at a reasonable price. SHipping is the killer, as the MLV layer weighs 1#/sq ft, which is why it is almost as effective as lead sheeting.

 

[R.Taylor]

R.Taylor, Nice write up. Its been a good few years now. How is the material you used holding up? Did you ever have any issues caused by heat?

November 2009..... It's been some now, 4 years and 2 months to be exact. My cheap home depot job has held up fine, I had the door panels off in October as I replaced all of the speakers. It is exactly where I stuck it down, no melting, sagging or stinking. Even on a summer day when 103, parked with the windows up.... no smell. Now, when I did this, it was only to quiet down the noise I'd hear through the door. I was not in any way trying to make my rig as quiet as a library, just tone it down a bit. I did read in this thread where someone put this stuff under their hood.... Uh, I never said to do that. I do now know that the Home Depot stuff is not the same as DynaMat, Next time..... If needed, I'll try that product for comparison.

 

[AllenSmith]

Its a very interesting thing and i must say that useful tool. Thanks for sharing this new kind of information. I think everyone should try it.

 

[MLee]

R Taylor,
Noticing in the earlier post when you started the project, the bead of attachment material that holds the plastic cover to the door, what did you use to remove this bead so cleanly? every time I have removed the plastic, it tears, and or leaves the material on the surface, thus difficult to re-attach the plastic. Nice job and sounds like a bit of success done inexpensively.